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Thread: What are some of your nitpicking/ dislikes about today's menswear?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by garryowen47 View Post
    2) "Tech fabrics." Menswear marketers got smart and realized they can exploit the current trend for "sustainable" and "environmentally-friendly" products by drenching products in artificial fabrics like polyester, and call it a "tech fabric." This trend of "tech fabric" is a reversion to the 1970s when everyone thought polyester was the modern, technologically-advanced fabric of the future. This time around, they're just greenwashing it. The irony is that that the man-made fibers are worse for the environment! They're all just made of plastic. Natural fibers, particularly wool, have a far lower environmental impact. I can't believe that more manufacturers of natural fabrics haven't yet pushed back against these false claims that their fabrics are unsustainable. The only company I've seen do so so far is Naadam, a small cashmere company. But now I'm just ranting...
    I hate that most polos are made out of this material now. It smells worse, stains easier, and despite the claims that they wick moisture I find they breathe worse than natural fabrics.

    My other gripe is OCBD's coming in S/M/L instead of neck and sleeve measurements.

  2. #22
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    Ima be a contrarian and say that I like stretch built into pants, including jeans. Not tons of stretch, but like 2-3% stretch fabric is great. Really can't fathom why anyone wouldn't appreciate a little give in their trousers. I dislike cheap, thin, underweight denim - at least in the winter - and I think the issue a lot of guys have with the stretch stuff is really more that the fabric is flimsy than that it has a little give. It's not the stretch per se that is causing that, it's the underweight denim fabric everyone is using - 11-12 oz denim instead of 14 oz or higher. That said, looking at the 10 day forecast I'm not sure we're going to get anything approaching a real winter here in the DC area and heavyweight denim can be brutal in warm weather. 11 oz denim is a lot more comfortable at 70 degrees and up and that's more of what we're getting here...I almost feel like my entire winter wardrobe is aspirational rather than practical at this point.

    I also don't mind patch pockets on light weight spring and fall jackets. They are indeed sub-optimal for winter coats as your hand goes in at an awkward angle if you need to stick them in the pockets to warm up, so I agree slant pockets are much preferred for a true winter coat/jacket.

    My pet peeve is vanity sizing - especially of shirts. I got a size medium LL Bean chamois shirt under the tree. Nice shirt, soft fabric, etc. Now, all of my sport coats and suits are a size 38, which put me at a medium in LL Bean's size chart - granted on the low end of medium, but medium based on chest size. I tried that thing on and it looked like a night shirt it was so huge - well beyond the bounds of a traditional full cut garment into a 6 year old wearing his dad's shirt territory. There was room for 2 of me in there. The only way that shirt could have fit someone with my chest size is if they're carrying 60-lbs lbs. of belly fat.

    The models in the LL Bean catalogs are fit and lean, and the clothes appear to fit them fine. So, why is my 38 inch chest 5'8" 155 lb frame overwhelmed by the ginormous shirt that their size chart says should fit me? Like, sell the cut you put on the models so people with normal BMIs can wear your clothes. This issue is becoming more of a problem over time with a lot of brands. For now, I can often get a decent fit by sizing down to a small but if this trend continues even that won't work. When that no longer works maybe I have to start looking at the boys section?

    I also do hate the trend towards tech fabrics for everyday wear items. Tech fabrics are great for sport-specific, workout clothes, and outdoor gear. However, I don't find petrochemical based fabrics all that comfortable for wear around the house, office or neighborhood when I'm just out walking around, hanging out, or working my desk job, etc. They don't look as good as natural fibers and they don't feel as good either, IMO.
    ďClothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.Ē Ė Mark Twain

  3. #23
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    LL Bean is notorious for oversized fits. I donít think itís vanity, I think itís just that their target audience isnít concerned with properly tailored fits. I bought a short sleeve linen shirt from LL Bean in a size medium and it was way too big; it definitely fit more like a large. I am 5í9Ē 180 and I had to size down to a small to get a proper fit.

  4. #24
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    They were making slim at one point, and it was too slim for my needs.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burner View Post
    I've mentioned it before in these threads, but I'll bring it up again. Try the White Oak Cone Denim from Jomers:

    https://jomers.com/products/white-oak-cone-denim-rinse

    100% cotton. $34 with free shipping (though you may need them hemmed). They are mid-weight in a basic dark rinse color, with good fabric and seemingly solid construction. The measurements are on the page. If you want a solid pair of rigid jeans and the dimensions work for you, you can't go wrong with these. And FWIW, I find their "slim" fit in size 32 to fit similarly to my 770 (i.e straight-fit) JCrew chinos.
    +1 on this.
    I wear mine at least twice a week.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by garryowen47 View Post
    LL Bean is notorious for oversized fits. I donít think itís vanity, I think itís just that their target audience isnít concerned with properly tailored fits. I bought a short sleeve linen shirt from LL Bean in a size medium and it was way too big; it definitely fit more like a large. I am 5í9Ē 180 and I had to size down to a small to get a proper fit.
    Agreed. I got a lovely flannel (colors and pattern) from my wife in a medium and itís very large. It seems they also have their flannels longer for wearing tucked in which I donít do. Shame. I really like the pattern.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by garryowen47 View Post
    LL Bean is notorious for oversized fits. I donít think itís vanity, I think itís just that their target audience isnít concerned with properly tailored fits. I bought a short sleeve linen shirt from LL Bean in a size medium and it was way too big; it definitely fit more like a large. I am 5í9Ē 180 and I had to size down to a small to get a proper fit.
    Filson as well. I have two of their shirts from a few years ago that were made in their Seattle fit, and those fit well enough despite sizing down. I bought the Tacoma work jacket several months back and ended up selling it on eBay because it was too billowy and cut for someone with the physique of Lou Ferrigno.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by paintflinger View Post
    North Face is popular simply due to name brand recognition. They used to make durable stuff and the current stuff is ok, but people mostly buy it because people know they make insulated winter coats that aren't too pricey.
    Agreed. Iíd say the same goes for Patagonia but a little pricier. I see a lot of both around town.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by garryowen47 View Post
    LL Bean is notorious for oversized fits. I donít think itís vanity, I think itís just that their target audience isnít concerned with properly tailored fits. I bought a short sleeve linen shirt from LL Bean in a size medium and it was way too big; it definitely fit more like a large. I am 5í9Ē 180 and I had to size down to a small to get a proper fit.
    Yeah, I remember reading this article and being surprised by the picture https://www.themodestman.com/clothing-industry-sizes/

  10. #30
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    For me it is the lack of true athletic options. Iím 6í4Ē and foot between 210-225 depending on my eating habits and such. EVERY single pair of pants and button down shirt I have (unless it is MTM) gets tailored.

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