Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: This Jacket?

  1. #1
    Varsity Member sdjackofclubs's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    318
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Quoted
    42 Post(s)

    This Jacket?

    Fellas,

    I need some Dappered[I]ly[I] (just made up a word!) advice.

    I bought this Spier & Mackay jacket recently. To give you some background, it's a 40R, Contemporary. I am 5'8", 175 lbs. aka. below average height, and stocky. In most brands I will wear a 40R, but have often straddled the line between 40R & 40S. I had picked up a 40S from Spier in the past, and found it to be too short. It went back.

    This jacket, when received felt a bit on the long side, but not overwhelmingly so. Sleeves were long (as they all are). I decided to alter it, and see what happened. Got it back. I think the sleeves could use another 1/2 - 1". But something else is bothering me about it. I don't know what it is.

    Here are some photos - https://photos.app.goo.gl/krqrAwncxcTjuuVYA.

    I think, based on the photos that the length is ok. A little long, but ok. However, the bottom of the jacket seems to migrate outwards. Not sure the correct term for what I am thinking.

    I can't tell you if I'm looking for affirmation or if I am looking for advice on what to do with it. I definitely think the sleeves need the extra shortening. Maybe I have my tailor clean up under the arms as well, and maybe try to do something about the bottom and how it flares out.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

    Thank you!
    instagram.com/cutandbasted
    cutandbasted.tumblr.com

  2. #2
    Varsity Member mebejoseph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    1,591
    Mentioned
    62 Post(s)
    Quoted
    646 Post(s)
    I don't have an answer, but I want to see other responses. Sometimes I have the same problem.

    And--overall, I think you look good in those photos. I know the style now is for shorter sleeves, but I think you're good on those.
    WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

  3. #3
    Varsity Member sdjackofclubs's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    318
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Quoted
    42 Post(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mebejoseph View Post
    I don't have an answer, but I want to see other responses. Sometimes I have the same problem.

    And--overall, I think you look good in those photos. I know the style now is for shorter sleeves, but I think you're good on those.
    Thank you! I have compared it to other jackets I own. While it's a bit longer, it's not crazy. I think if I nip it in a few more places it will be right. But I do appreciate your feedback!
    instagram.com/cutandbasted
    cutandbasted.tumblr.com

  4. #4
    Varsity Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    549
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Quoted
    173 Post(s)
    The body is about an inch long -- extending past both your groin and your knuckles -- while the sleeves look to be in the personal preference range (I'd shorten them too). The length might explain the flaring, the shot from behind suggests it's tight at the waist (horizontal fold) and loose at the back (uneven rumpling). I see what looks like some horizontal pulling on the button around the sides and front.

    When standing, how much room is there between your stomach and the button without pulling on the button?

  5. #5
    Varsity Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    1,174
    Mentioned
    57 Post(s)
    Quoted
    424 Post(s)
    I would try unbuttoning the jacket and pulling it together without buttoning in the mirror. If it doesn't flare an inch or two away from being buttoned, you may just need to have the waist let out.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    49
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Quoted
    18 Post(s)
    It drapes well enough in the front. It only looks a bit long in the last photo. Oddly, it's bunching up a bit in the mid-back, while the upper-back seems a bit loose. Can't get really get a sense of what your underlying body shape is, though. Maybe you have a prominent seat, but a small upper back? Or maybe you're just standing too upright. I'm of similar dimensions, but of a different shape.

    You could also try tapering your jeans/pants to around 6.5" or so. That is one way of looking less stocky, and it can really tighten up a sport-coat silhouette.

  7. #7
    Varsity Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    615
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Quoted
    268 Post(s)
    Looks fine from the front. All wrong from the back. I don't know if it's the cut, or if your tailor did it, but it looks like it's too tight around the waist on the back but loose everywhere else?

    Good news is I think this can be corrected. Doesn't seem like it would take a lot. Bring it to a good tailor and show them the back

  8. #8
    Varsity Member sdjackofclubs's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    318
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Quoted
    42 Post(s)
    Thanks for all the feedback. I agree it's long. Longer than I usually wear, but still wearable in my opinion. Also agree that the back and sleeves need help. Uploaded a better photo from behind - this time wearing better fitting jeans, and shoes. Makes a difference, I think. Will definitely bring it back to the tailor. Thanks again!!

  9. #9
    Varsity Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    549
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Quoted
    173 Post(s)
    Yes, the waist looks better in the later photo. Upper back has extra fabric, but I'd still look at how much space you have between your stomach and the button in regards to the jacket flare. You usually want to be able to slip your hand in flat without pulling on the jacket, but not your fist (with caveat for exceptionally beefy or bony hands).

  10. #10
    Varsity Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    615
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Quoted
    268 Post(s)
    I think it's just a bit too tight in the waist. The shape of your body in front makes the jacket sit ok, but the fact it's too tight can be seen in the back. I bet it sits way better in the back with an inch or two let out of the waist.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •