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Thread: Hemming length of dress pants

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    Super Moderator DocDave's Avatar
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    Hemming length of dress pants

    I recently purchased a Spier & Mackay grey suit - thanks Joe. I've had the suit tailored by my tailor who I've been going to for years. Guy does good work and I trust him.

    When it came time to hem my pants he did the usual. I took a look at the length in a mirror and all looked well. I picked the suit up last week and gave it spin for the first time yesterday and I can't help but wonder if the pants were hemmed too short (sorry, no photos).

    When standing there is an ever so slight brake. But when walking it seems a though the pants are floods. Full ankle exposure. And when I stop walking, there is no break. The pants come down to my shoe.

    So. Should I take them back and have the hem removed so lengthen the pants?

    I did some looking around as I was walking downtown and it seems to me this might be the style now. Is it? Or am I just get crusty in my old age?

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    In 2018 I dont think there is such a thing as the style anymore. Regardless, the pants are not your style, so take em back and get em fixed.

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    Varsity Member Shade's Avatar
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    No such thing as high waters in 2018. Let those ankles breathe...


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    i think there is a very specific person to pull off this look. I would likely have them brought down personally. I want them to touch the shoes. I never want to appear to those that dont know better (people with no fashion sense), and have pants that are too short. The above pic is clearly intentional and would not come across that way.

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    Depends on the width of the trouser leg. Narrower openings lead to higher hems, primarily to avoid bunching, and as such for fashion's sake can be worn high while still looking deliberate. If the leg opening is wide enough to cover the heel and (some of) the laces, then a short hem looks like a mistake rather than a fashion choice.

    I'm somewhat old-fashioned, and my legs are visible when meeting with clients, so I tend to favour a longer hem and ask for a half break, but to have the hem angled so it's longer in at the heel. Still never gets more than halfway to the sole but it makes a difference, while keeping a clean vertical line on most of the leg opening.
    Last edited by Galcobar; December 4th, 2018 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Typos

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    Varsity Member Shade's Avatar
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    I personally like zero to very little break. I like the pant to just touch the top of the shoe. The biggest problem, in my opinion with a short or higher hem, is when the person is sitting. Sometimes the pant rides really high and exposes too much to the lower leg.

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    Super Moderator DocDave's Avatar
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    Yeah, the length of the pants are really getting on my tits. When I go home tonight I'm going to match up the new pants with what I already own/wear. I mean it could be my imagination and all, but I swear these new pants are hemmed shorter than pants from my previous suits.

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    Quote Originally Posted by neminat View Post
    i think there is a very specific person to pull off this look. I would likely have them brought down personally. I want them to touch the shoes. I never want to appear to those that dont know better (people with no fashion sense), and have pants that are too short. The above pic is clearly intentional and would not come across that way.
    Right -- it has to look intentional.

    BTW, how often are people seeing the exposed ankle thing in the wild? I almost never see it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slubby Linen View Post
    Right -- it has to look intentional.

    BTW, how often are people seeing the exposed ankle thing in the wild? I almost never see it.
    Ive almost never seen it.

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    I only see it on the really fancy-dressing 20s-30s guys here in DC, and even then not too often. But it is around, at least in the K St area. (Not in Congress, not yet.)

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