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Thread: Hemming length of dress pants

  1. #11
    Varsity Member mebejoseph's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocDave View Post
    I recently purchased a Spier & Mackay grey suit - thanks Joe. I've had the suit tailored by my tailor who I've been going to for years. Guy does good work and I trust him.

    When it came time to hem my pants he did the usual. I took a look at the length in a mirror and all looked well. I picked the suit up last week and gave it spin for the first time yesterday and I can't help but wonder if the pants were hemmed too short (sorry, no photos).

    When standing there is an ever so slight brake. But when walking it seems a though the pants are floods. Full ankle exposure. And when I stop walking, there is no break. The pants come down to my shoe.

    So. Should I take them back and have the hem removed so lengthen the pants?

    I did some looking around as I was walking downtown and it seems to me this might be the style now. Is it? Or am I just get crusty in my old age?
    My tailor told me that the more taper to the leg, the less break you should have. And that's the way he does it.

    Could this apply to you?
    Intentionally overdressed for almost every occasion.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mebejoseph View Post
    My tailor told me that the more taper to the leg, the less break you should have. And that's the way he does it.

    Could this apply to you?
    I own three trousers from S&M - 2 OTR & 1 MTM. All three, when standing, just about touch the top of my shoes, but the MTM trouser feels a bit odd when I am walking as it shows more of the leg. The likely reason is that the MTM is not as tapered as the OTRs are.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator DocDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mebejoseph View Post
    My tailor told me that the more taper to the leg, the less break you should have. And that's the way he does it.

    Could this apply to you?
    Hmm. Maybe. I'll have to take a closer look at the pants. I'm not sure.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheManJournals View Post
    I own three trousers from S&M - 2 OTR & 1 MTM. All three, when standing, just about touch the top of my shoes, but the MTM trouser feels a bit odd when I am walking as it shows more of the leg. The likely reason is that the MTM is not as tapered as the OTRs are.
    This ^^^. This is exactly what I'm talking about. So perhaps it does have something to do with the taper.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Galcobar View Post
    Depends on the width of the trouser leg. Narrower openings lead to higher hems, primarily to avoid bunching, and as such for fashion's sake can be worn high while still looking deliberate. If the leg opening is wide enough to cover the heel and (some of) the laces, then a short hem looks like a mistake rather than a fashion choice.

    I'm somewhat old-fashioned, and my legs are visible when meeting with clients, so I tend to favour a longer hem and ask for a half break, but to have the hem angled so it's longer in at the heel. Still never gets more than halfway to the sole but it makes a difference, while keeping a clean vertical line on most of the leg opening.
    +1 to this

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