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Thread: What heights should use Short/Regular/Long sizes?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by aps2012 View Post
    Whether a jacket fits you depends on where it falls on your body, not on what number or letter is inside on the label. I prefer a jacket that properly covers one's back side and don't really like the cropped look of the last 5 or so years. But perhaps we're moving back a little longer which is why the guidance on S, R, and L, seems to be changing? I wouldn't trust JCrew or Suit Supply not to change the "proper" fit based on changing fashions.
    This is true, but generally speaking if your proportions are anywhere near average, knowing your height should get you pretty close to determining whether you are a short, regular, or long. The guidelines are it should just cover your backside - basically ending at the crease where your buttocks meet the upper thigh. For most guys, that is where the first knuckle of the thumb falls (the one closest to the tip of the thumb) so that is an alternate guide. I think this standard still applies whether things trend more boxy/full cut or tailored. Look at Humphrey Bogart - that was a full cut era but the rule still applies if you look at photos of him in a suit. I've had good luck with getting the right length from J Crew following their size guidance and have been buying jackets from them for over a half decade. The Ludlow fit is very tailored but not shortened beyond the norm. Some retailers did indeed go shorter though.
    “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” – Mark Twain

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by aps2012 View Post
    Whether a jacket fits you depends on where it falls on your body, not on what number or letter is inside on the label.
    This says it all. It will vary based on cut, designer, and body proportion (not just height). The right size is the one that fits and looks the best. Internet guidelines are great, but this is why there’s no substitute for actually trying something on and seeing how it looks.

  3. #13
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    I am 5'7" and generally wear Short, but have had a professor mention I should wear a Regular (business class, dressed up to give presentation). I think it depends on the brand as well. Also I have a bit of a butt, so the extra fabric of a regular could help cover fully. Just bought a 41R in the JCrew Unsuit, since the 40S is a little too tight in Ludlow cut and they sold out of 42S, so I shall see how it fits.

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    I’m 5’8” and wear a 38 Short from SuitSupply.


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  5. #15
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    Height really isn't that good a predictor. Build and brand are more important, which is to say there're no hard cutoff points.

    Narrower chest fits are usually shorter, so a skinny short fellow might need a regular while someone of wider build could go short.

    At 5'10" I'm supposedly on the boundary for a lot of brands between regular and long. I'm a 36 chest in most brands, but my long waist makes my arms relatively short. All require the chest/back to be let out (I measure about 37"), and the waist suppressed (28"). However, in J. Crew, JCF, and Suit Supply Lazio I'm a short, Spier & Mackay a contemporary regular but I get the sleeves shortened (S&M shorts are too short, and really tight around the armhole). Lazio I should probably be a regular but with working sleeve buttons I'll take accurate sleeves and a shorter body, especially as my posterior isn't particularly prominent and I can get away with a little more pants showing. Banana Republic trim fit I get a short, and still need to shorten the sleeves.

  6. #16
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    I'm 5'9" and wear 40S most times, although I have been able to pull off a regular on certain makes. I've always used the ROT that if you hold your arms by your side and can curl your fingers under the bottom of the jacket hem, that's the appropriate length.

    The guidelines that SuSu and others post on their sites are just that - guidelines - and are likely put there to aid those who are perhaps first time or infrequent buyers. I'd always go with experience over general guidelines. If a short works for you, then go with that.

  7. #17
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    Is this an appropriate length or too short? https://imgur.com/a/VSy2WQX

    I may try to go up to an R in my next sportcoat...
    Last edited by Scofield; June 9th, 2018 at 12:43 PM.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scofield View Post
    Is this an appropriate length or too short? https://imgur.com/a/VSy2WQX

    I may try to go up to an R in my next sportcoat...
    A little short I think, especially given it's a more formal colour. The hand in the pocket means I can't see where it falls against your arm, and the visible belt buckle could be due to the rumpled side.

    That said, the belt buckle and tie end are visible, and that's usually a good indication the jacket is too short for the button stance (and it looks like the buttons are about as low as they could be).

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Galcobar View Post
    A little short I think, especially given it's a more formal colour. The hand in the pocket means I can't see where it falls against your arm, and the visible belt buckle could be due to the rumpled side.

    That said, the belt buckle and tie end are visible, and that's usually a good indication the jacket is too short for the button stance (and it looks like the buttons are about as low as they could be).
    interesting since i' 5-6 with short legs, arms and torso so never thought of myself as an R. i'll try buying an R in my next spier and mackay sportcoat and see how that goes. it's not so short it looks weird/i should get rid of it right lol

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scofield View Post
    interesting since i' 5-6 with short legs, arms and torso so never thought of myself as an R. i'll try buying an R in my next spier and mackay sportcoat and see how that goes. it's not so short it looks weird/i should get rid of it right lol
    Not at all. If the front covers your belt when your hand isn't in your pocket, I might stick with that cut. Judging by your shirt cuffs the arm length seems spot-on, so if you go to a regular you'll probably need to shorten the sleeves.

    If you've got short arms, legs and total, wouldn't that mean your proportions are typical? My inseam and arms are just a little short for my height -- or more accurately, I have a long waist for my build. To get the button stance right I have to go with a Contemporary regular and shorten the sleeves.

    S&M have pretty comprehensive size details listed on their website, maybe check those to see if going to a regular will have the desired effect, and if it will throw any other dimensions off.

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