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Thread: Promotion gifts to self

  1. #21
    Varsity Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    118 Post(s)
    511 Post(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by JBarwick View Post
    @srlclark - MTM may not fix your sport coat issues. Online MTM take a stock template and fit your measurements to it. In person should be better but it depends on if the company goes that in depth on the fitting. Good luck in your search!
    Yes, I'm a bit wary about going MTM, because I'm not convinced that a MTM sport coat won't still produce collar gap. I don't just mean, as Joe has said, that contrary to the #menswear claim that in a bespoke jacket you should be able to play a round of golf without your jacket collar departing from your shirt collar, when people move some collar gap is inevitable, although I think he's right about that. (Since I got more interested in fit, I've paid attention to the men around me and on TV and have noticed that collar gap occurs frequently when moving around, even with a jacket that otherwise fits well. As one recent example, the SuitSupply associate I was talking to yesterday was wearing a well-tailored jacket but when he lifted his arms up or to the side, the jacket moved back from the shirt).

    In my case it's that I don't see how the tailor is going to work around my posture issues and make a jacket that leans forward as I do. And if there's going to be collar gap anyway, I might as well stick to off-the-rack jackets that, after tailoring, fit well in terms of sleeve length, body length, around the waist, arms, and in button position, and just deal with the collar gap. In academia, I suspect that only a small percentage of people even know about collar gap, let alone notice it, let alone care about it. That's what I've done so far, but I'm not very happy with that solution, as it undermines the "fit is everything" mantra of Dappered and elsewhere. And it certainly isn't worth paying $399 for a sport coat that produces collar gap. (I'd feel differently if I paid $150 for it, and would tolerate fit that is imperfect but better than most others).

    Anyway, I sent an e-mail to my J. Hillburn stylist today. I haven't been in touch with her since 2015, but she did get me a made-to-measure shirt that I wore for my wedding that does fit great. So, I told her I was thinking about getting an MTM sport coat for my 40th (which is in June) but wanted to discuss whether it could be made in such a way as to avoid collar gap. I may also check out SuitSupply Georgetown (which is the store from which I've got my previous SuitSupply purchases), as they have a MTM program, whereas SuitSupply King of Prussia does not. If they're confident they can make the jacket in such a way that I don't have a collar gap, I'll go ahead with it, although I'd want to check that I could get a refund if it doesn't fit as promised.

    Even then, the issue is that I can't afford more than a very occasional MTM sport coat or suit jacket, and as I wear one or other to work pretty much every time I teach, I'm still going to have to deal with some collar gap.

    #firstworldproblems, eh?

  2. #22
    Varsity Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    82 Post(s)
    334 Post(s)
    @srlclark Glad to hear that you nailed the sizing on the Carminas, that's definitely the biggest hurdle to get over, and now you can purchase more with confidence that they'll fit (both a good and bad thing). Also Skoak is an awesome shop; sadly they've phased out Carmina, but Carlos Santos and Enzo Bonafe are two great options in that price range.

    As for the MTM route, if you are able to find a good MTM option that can do that level of adjustment (accounting for posture, sloping or uneven shoulders) I'd love to hear about it. I've always been a bit hesitant to try online MTM because I think a lot of things have to go right in order for it to work out: you as the customer have to know what you're doing in terms of assessing fit, you have to be able to take accurate measurements, the manufacturer has to be able to do revisions and adjustments without ever seeing you in the flesh, etc. I think it's very rare to be perfect the first time, so I've found it helpful to do things in person so that the tailor can see how the item fits on me rather than through photos (which can be an inaccurate 2D oversimplification) or through a set of measurement numbers.

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