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Thread: Question Re Tie Width, in Particular Sam Hober Ties.

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    Varsity Member mebejoseph's Avatar
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    Question Re Tie Width, in Particular Sam Hober Ties.

    I've always been a little bit cheap when it comes to ties. I don't know why I feel okay to spend $350 on a pair of shoes, but when it comes to ties, $40 seems like too much.

    But I recently stretched myself a bit and purchased a Ted Baker tie on sale for about twice that, and I really like it a lot--it knots better, feels better, and I think it looks better than most of my cheaper ties.

    So, I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a Sam Hober tie or two. If you've looked into them, you know that the customer tells them how wide to make the tie when we order.

    The Sam Hober website says this about tie width: "The more traditional ties range in width from 3.5 inches to 3.75 inches wide at the widest."

    However, I measured several of my ties and the width seems to be more in the 3 inch to 3.25 inch range. Some are almost 3.5 inches, but not quite. They do not seem to be particularly narrow, although they are a little bit narrower than ties I was wearing five to ten years ago. (Also, a little shorter).

    So, before I pull the trigger and spend $100 to $150 on a tie, I'm trying to figure out how wide to order it. Should I go with about 3 to 3.25 inches, or with the website suggestion of 3.5?

    Of course, I'd like a width that is going to be in style as long as possible if I'm going to spend that type of money. I'm thinking about pretty classic standard patterns for the fabric.

    If you've ordered any recently, what width did you order?

    Also, I'm a bit over 6' 2" tall, and wear about a 43L suit at about 200 pounds. Although my shoulders are a bit broad, I am more lanky, with fairly long arms (36 sleeve length), so I don't think I NEED a wide tie to look proportional. Oh, and most of my height is in my torso rather than legs.

    Any advice is appreciated.

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    Super Moderator hornsup84's Avatar
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    I've never ordered from SH, but I'm a bit confused by them offering 3.5-3.75, then saying 3.75 is a good middle ground. That's the widest tie I've heard of in more than a decade. I think my widest tie purchased this millennium has been 3.5 (and that was rather wide, IMO--and I dislike skinny ties).

    I'm guessing their "Traditional" description would be the antithesis of the more recent skinny tie trend, aka traditional is the leftover from the 80s/90s trends of relatively wide ties. From my more recent experience, generally most middle of road ties -- those that are neither purposefully skinny or fat-- fall within 3-3.5", with 3 and 1/8th and 3.25 being the most common. Obviously there's some recency bias here, but that 1/8th to 1/4th range is hard to go wrong with, and I think would be the least likely to look way off as tie width trends ebb and flow.

    Obviously there's a tangential question of how varying tie widths look on your specific frame. Plenty of guys look great with ties in the 2.75-3 range if they have smaller/thinner frames. I have a wider shoulder/torso, so those wind up looking like 2-2.5 skinny ties on me. YMMV. For what it's worth, I'm 6'3/230 with approx 44L and 36 arms.

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    The ties I like most are 8cm or 9cm with the latter being a little more than 3.5". Also, since you are 6'2", look at the length as well. I am more torso than legs so my sweet spot is a 59" tie. It knots well with a FIH and the back blade isn't longer than the front blade.

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    Here's what I did when figuring out my tie width. I bought cheap ties (tiebar.com, used, sale) in variety of widths. And then I just took good photos of myself with those ties (with jacket on, buttoned) and determined the best width.

    Some rule of thumb: https://blacklapel.com/thecompass/as...should-you-go/ which requires you to know your lapel width. Have you figured out your lapel width?

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    Varsity Member Sideswipe's Avatar
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    I have a bunch of Hobers, and after playing around with several different widths on my initial orders, settled on 3 3/8ths as my go-to. (I'm 5'10" / ~170 / 40R). I would go with what you're used to and the Hober folks will make sure that it's proportional and all that. David is also great about customer service and answering questions, so you could always email him if you're torn.

    My oldest ties were purchased from BB around '99-early 2000s and were in the 3.5-3.75 range, maybe that's a factor in how they're defining traditional? Complete speculation on my part though. I ended up having those narrowed and I think BB's standard is now 3.25, FWIW.

    Hober makes beautiful ties, hope you like whatever you end up getting!
    “There are moments, Jeeves, when one asks oneself, 'Do trousers matter?'"
    "The mood will pass, sir.”

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    I don't think I have the patience to order bespoke ties (10 minutes on the Hober site is way more thought than I've ever given to tie construction) but I think some of the confusion is poor writing on their part. I think the 3.75 starting point is meant in reference to big and tall ties rather than all. As a big and tall dude myself, that still sounds like a lot of tie.

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    Hober ties are great. Mine are at 3 5/8 or 3.5 and I wear size 43/44R jackets (sometimes 42). Most of my lapels are in the 3.25-4 inch range.

    David suggests that 3.75 is the norm, but I think that is a but much for the average. You need.to factor in your own proportions and your lapels. I personally think that 3 inch ties in your frame are likely pushing it. You really cannot go wrong for 3.25-3.5. The issue that I have with 3.25 inch wide ties is that there is not enough width due to tapering at the mid portion so the knots are wimpier than how I like them. This is true in my experience even for Drake ties Hober ties dont have this issue.

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    Varsity Member mebejoseph's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback everyone--I did hear back from David Hober and he sticks with the 3.5 to 3.75 suggestion:

    Our suggestions on based on timeless style and not so much on current fashion.

    The size of men is not getting smaller on average... so we suggest a normal width of 3.5 to 3.75 inches.

    But this is a personal decision and for example if you are slim thin a narrower width might work better.
    And per the suggestion of @3piece I am going to go measure my lapels.

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    I'm 6' 4" and weigh 180 -182: 42 long in most suit jackets. I have David and his people make my ties 3.5 inches wide which is the same width as all of my labels.

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