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Thread: Potential TM Lewin suit purchase (Dormeuil and VBC fabric)

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  1. #1
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    Potential TM Lewin suit purchase (Dormeuil and VBC fabric)

    Hello all

    This is my first post on these forums, so apologies if this is in the wrong place.

    I am looking to purchase a navy or dark blue half-canvassed suit for my wedding this summer. I have mostly been looking at the SuitSupply Lazio range, however the following two TM Lewin sale suits caught my eye:

    A) https://www.tmlewin.co.uk/clearance/...ol-58828S.html
    B) https://www.tmlewin.co.uk/clearance/...ol-58692S.html

    Both have been discounted down to £200 - the first from £400 and the second from £350. What stood out to me was the seemingly good fabric for the price (Dormeuil and VBC).


    My specific questions are:
    1) Am I right that the suits represent good value? Is one of Dormeuil or VBC typically considered better or is the fabric quality likely to be comparable?

    2) From what I've seen online I was under the impression that most TM Lewin suits are half-canvassed. This is noted specifically in Suit B's description ("Partial canvas construction for light, comfortable wear"), but given that Suit A is supposedly the more expensive suit at RRP, would it be safe to assume it is also half-canvassed?

    3) Will the functional button holes rule out sleeve shortening entirely? I can imagine needing the sleeves to be shortened by up to 1cm.

    4) What is the general view of TM Lewin in terms of style and fit. I am 5ft8 and 140lb (give or take) with ~8in drop chest to waist so tend to prefer more slim fitting suits. Would the TM Lewins be suitable? For the money I'd save vs a SuitSupply I could certainly get a few alterations done.

    Apologies for the long list of questions and thank you everyone in advance!

  2. #2
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    Congratulations on tying the knot.

    1) Not bad, especially if you are in the UK where everything seems more expensive. Both manufacturers make a range of fabrics, but since both are quality makers differences will likely be slight and it comes down to your preference for the fabric style (brushed vs. the particular texture of the textured one).

    2) I would e-mail and ask. It's not safe to assume anything; prices can be pretty arbitrary. One might have higher list price for any number of reasons. However, half-canvas is not essential if the suit is not going to be worn frequently. Fit and feel is more important.

    3) Depends on how high up the buttons are placed on the sleeve. You can probably do 1 cm without it looking odd. Shortening from shoulder is expensive.

    4) No one here can tell you without pictures. You really have to try them on and see it how it suits your particular body with all its peculiarities.

    If they're not final sale, I would order all three suits and try them on. It's probably worth investing in one excellent navy suit that you can use for all important occasions.

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    Thank you sky7i for your thorough response. It was very helpful. I have ordered both TM Lewin suits to try on and may post some pictures of fit once they arrive. I also have a SuitSupply store near my workplace so will try some of their offerings there.

    One thing I often read online is that SuitSupply sits slightly above TM Lewin in the hierarchy of value RTW suits. The reason that tends to be cited is SuitSupply using better fabrics. Am I right that for these specific TM Lewin suits, this would no longer apply, since they both use wool from reputable mills? Is there any other area of construction that people find SuitSupply is typically better at than TM Lewin?

    I emailed customer services and they confirmed that the Nathaniel suit is half-canvassed, so that's a positive

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    Quote Originally Posted by suitshopper View Post
    One thing I often read online is that SuitSupply sits slightly above TM Lewin in the hierarchy of value RTW suits. The reason that tends to be cited is SuitSupply using better fabrics. Am I right that for these specific TM Lewin suits, this would no longer apply, since they both use wool from reputable mills? Is there any other area of construction that people find SuitSupply is typically better at than TM Lewin?
    Just seeing this question now. Undoubtably one of the features that puts Suitsupply suits above those TM Lewin suits are the shoulder construction. The Susu suits have more natural looking shoulders vs the vey boxy TM Lewis suit shoulders. (Sorry for the huge pictures...)





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    That actually is something I'm sort of torn over at the moment. I've got a grey SS Napoli that is absolutely fantastic in fit and construction. The problem -- and this is probably going to sound ridiculous -- is that it's so perfectly contoured that I think it borders on looking too overtly fashionable. I feel like I need something more conventionally boxy for interviews and that sort of thing. So lately I've been intrigued with the two well-known affordable English makers, C Tyrwhitt and TM Lewin, precisely because their cuts are slightly boxy. I do have reservations about whether the shoulders are more of an intentional style choice or just them being cheap since structured shoulders can be easier to produce. In other words I wonder if they're doing a well executed structured English shoulder or if they just look cheap in person. That said, curiosity got the best of me and I wound up ordering a navy CT to try out, figuring I can return it if need be. It should be here in a week or so.

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    Did you have any luck with the Lewin suit? Their upper tier models with half canvas and Italian fabrics look like a possible bargain.

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    You could get a Spier & Mackay suit for the equivalent of £220, and although they offer sportcoats with pretty soft shoulders, their suits (except for maybe the Neopolitan models) have shoulders that are just padded enough to have some structure without being football player shoulder pads.

    https://www.spierandmackay.com/shop/apparel/suits.html

    Here is a good example of one of these suits. Note how the shoulders have a clean line towards the sleevecap, but have a gentle slope down, whereas the TM Lewis suits have a very straight paded shoulder, even almost convex.

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    Thank you for the recommendation. I actually returned an S&M suit just like the one pictured a week before last. Not the fault of the suit, which was beautiful, just that my slightly wide and square shoulders didn't work with their house cut, which is slightly narrow but more importantly seems to anticipate more sloping shoulders in the wearer. I didn't really focus on the shoulder construction at the time because of the fit issues. Also, the Tyrwitt suit arrived earlier than expected so I've had a chance to try it out. Again I have fit issues (I got the classic fit which is simply too loose for my frame) but I do think it's a well done shoulder -- quite structured but not cheap feeling. At this point I may just get the SS Napoli in navy, because I know it's a sure thing (assuming their factory holds its tolerances). I bought the SS at their store in Las Vegas and it was a slam dunk fit right off the rack with no alterations. Maybe getting it in basic navy will tone down its snazzy sleekness some.
    Last edited by Slubby Linen; March 31st, 2018 at 12:38 PM.

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