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Thread: Raising arm holes - shirt vs suit

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Raising arm holes - shirt vs suit

    I've been to two or three tailors in my lifetime.
    With regard to getting my dress shirts fitting closer - I just tell them to "take it in to fit closer and make the arms thinner" and they sow along the red lines in the picture.

    http://imgur.com/Ia16kC3

    By sowing in this manner - the arm holes are automatically raised.
    I don't explicitly request that they raise the arm holes but I am happy that this happens automatically by sowing in this manner.

    When I compare the arm holes of a suit to the arm holes of a dress shirt - they have the same structure.

    My question is - Can the arm holes of suits be raised in the same way - considering that they have the same structure.

    I am asking because I want to get my blazer tapered - but don't like the idea of thin arms with big arm holes.
    And considering that my blazer is thin and casual and unstructured - I would think it can be altered like a shirt.

    Help :(

  2. #2
    Varsity Member
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    @jdawg First of all sew is spelled with an "e" sow with an "o" means to plant seeds. With regards to your question, to actually make the arm holes of a jacket smaller would require opening the seams around the entire sleeve head and adjusting the different panels along the whole sleeve if not more. I'm no tailor but just from my experience it seems like a huge job if not an impossible one even for a good tailor (though I may be completely wrong about that.) Taking in the waist or slimming the sleeves isn't going to "raise the arm hole" because the tailor is most likely going to taper the sleeves on the outside seam which doesn't go to the bottom of the arm hole and even if he used the inside seam also, he would stop at the arm hole. I'm guessing the reason the arm holes seem raised when you get your shirts taken in is because the tailor is tapering the entire seam from the cuff to the bottom of the shirt which is basically one continuous seam which runs through the arm hole. So essentially the tailor is making the arm hole smaller. But you have to remember that blazers/suit jackets are constructed very differently than shirts so the tailoring process is going to be very different as well.

  3. #3
    mistabutters
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    Raising the arm holes on a jacket would be very expensive and I'm not sure many tailors would do it. The seam and structure of a suit is nothing like that of a shirt. They are built completely differently. As @mmgfarb mentioned, a shirt is essentially one long seam so a tailor can just sew up it and taper as he goes. On suit jackets, to start the seam of the body and sleeve don't line up (the sleeve seam isn't on the bottom of the arm). Also, you can't just pinch and sew because once you get to the armpit it would mess up the entire shoulder structure of the jacket. It would look terrible. I believe to raise the armhole on a jacket, you'd need to remove the entire sleeve and you would probably even need extra fabric to to maintain the structure.

  4. #4
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    thank you both.

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