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Thread: Jacket and Shirt sleeves

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    Varsity Member tairby's Avatar
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    Question Jacket and Shirt sleeves

    Perhaps I am just uninformed, or my choice in tailor is that terrible...

    I cannot seem to get a balance between jacket & shirt sleeve lengths so that just a bit of my shirt cuff peeks, without the shirt sleeve creeping out too far as I move around--a la Mexico's coach during the World Cup



    It's probably a pipe-dream, but Daniel Craig's suiting in the Bond films is the ideal set-up.



    Is it a mixture of the sleeves' diameters? a shoulder padding issue? What do I need to know for when I purchase my next suit?

    Thanks in advance

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    When you're relaxed (arms on your side), the cuffs of the shirt sit at the right position because of either: the sleeves are short enough, or the cuffs are narrow enough.

    In your case, I suspect you have extra length on your sleeves, that when you do the mexican coach pose, the suit sleeves are pulled, but not your shirt sleeves.

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    Varsity Member facelessghost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3piece View Post
    In your case, I suspect you have extra length on your sleeves, that when you do the mexican coach pose, the suit sleeves are pulled, but not your shirt sleeves.
    I suspect it's this. I've two shirts that are identical except for sleeve length--one is a 35, the other a 36. It's only a one-inch different, but I always get Mexican-soccer arms (new term?) when I wear the 36. No problems at all with the 35.

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    Varsity Member M. Montaigne's Avatar
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    Usually, my shirt sleeves stick out .5 - .75 inches when I am relaxed.

    But when I'm giving the Sieg Heil salute, more of the shirt sticks out, which is fine.

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    Varsity Member zcm's Avatar
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    Let them stick out a little. As long as you don't have mexican soccer arms while standing or shaking hands you are fine. Don't think too much about it.

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    I imagine that part of that is the coach being outrageously exuberant, and Bond is not.

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    Varsity Member tairby's Avatar
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    So should the shirt sleeve move with the jacket to keep that appearance?

    To make sure you get right length do you tailor your sleeves with a straight arm, relaxed arm, or bent arm?

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    Varsity Member tairby's Avatar
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    And does structure of the shoulder play in to this at all? 007 jackets all seem to have minimal padding in the shoulder to accentuate the shape his physique already has

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    Varsity Member M. Montaigne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tairby View Post
    And does structure of the shoulder play in to this at all? 007 jackets all seem to have minimal padding in the shoulder to accentuate the shape his physique already has
    Tom Ford jackets usually have more structured shoulders, not less.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tairby View Post
    Is it a mixture of the sleeves' diameters? a shoulder padding issue? What do I need to know for when I purchase my next suit?
    Your answer lies in the armhole of the suit jacket. If the jacket armhole is lower than the shirt armhole (as in most cases it is), the jacket arm has less freedom of movement, so the jacket sleeves ride up when the arm is moved vertically. The shirt sleeves don't pull back as much because the shirt has higher armholes.

    Look for a suit with a high armhole. The armpit of the suit should hug in under your own armpit. It makes it more difficult to put the suit on or take it off, but it gives the arms more range of motion. The sleeves won't ride up as much, and the sides of the jacket will stay closer to your body as you moves your arms.

    See the 2nd and 3rd paragraphs of this post: http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=4671

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