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Thread: The True Cause of Shoulder Divots: What actually causes shoulder divots?

  1. #21
    Super Moderator DocDave's Avatar
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    Great post. How did I miss this the first time it was posted? Anyway, I tend to overlook the shoulder divot problem on my suits. If the rest of the jacket/suit fits me well, I just hope the rest of the people out there will notice that and not focus on the divot issue.

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    This is really helpful, just wondering can taking out shoulder pad give more space to the arm which helps solving the pivot problem at a lesser cost?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sub View Post
    This is really helpful, just wondering can taking out shoulder pad give more space to the arm which helps solving the pivot problem at a lesser cost?
    I have a guess that all it will do is make it lay worse, but I have one suit I'd be willing to try on. I think you'd have to be willing to put in a smaller pad, at least.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LCDR View Post
    This was confusing to me at first, because I could not see the diagram, but it makes sense even with just the words. The real cause of shoulder divots is the armhole shape does not conform to the shape of the wearer. The ratio of the armhole height to width does not fit the wearer. If the armhole is too narrow (not wide enough from front to back), then it will pull (front-to-back), and the excess fabric height on the sleeve will collapse, and the sleeve will pull (front-to-back). This will cause the horizontal shoulder divot.
    The real cause of shoulder divots is that suit sleeves are skin tight right now. All of the "classic" suit pictures that get trotted out to show that wide shoulders don't have divots also have wide sleeves that allow the arm to move inside the sleeve.

    Look at all the "dimple" pictures from the first post. The sleeves are so slim that they're not just divoted but wrinkled all around the upper arm from the stress the fabric is under. A better armhole cut will alleviate the divoting somewhat, but it's going to be nearly impossible to eliminate while the sleeve is so slim. That's why the "size up" advice can actually work. It makes the shoulders wider but more importantly it makes the sleeve wider.

    You cannot have a tight cut in the chest and sleeves and expect the one place with empty space (the shoulder) to not wrinkle/divit. The tight cut pulls at the fabric so unless you make the jacket shoulder follow the natural shoulder perfectly (and thus also be tight, and odd-looking on a suit/sports coat), the stress on the fabric will show there.

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