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The True Cause of Shoulder Divots: What actually causes shoulder divots?

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    #16
    [MENTION=10240]LCDR[/MENTION] I found this incredibly helpful and could not agree more. I'm a 40R, but almost every suit jacket and dress shirt has armoholes that are too small for me. I can go up to a 42R, which is more comfortable, but then the jacket is too big and the shoulders are too wide. I've learned to accept that a suit jacket will never fit me comfortably and look good simultaneously unless it is bespoke, which I cannot currently afford. Unfortunate. At least I don't have to wear them too often.
    42" Chest 32" Waist 6' Tall 185 lbs.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Duvel View Post
      Great post. Unless I'm spending significant cash, I overlook the shoulder divet problem if it's not too great. I get picky if it's an expensive suit, of course, but otherwise I just call it good.
      [MENTION=6633]Duvel[/MENTION] This makes me feel worlds better. The shoulder divots were driving me crazy, but I too am just going to accept it.
      42" Chest 32" Waist 6' Tall 185 lbs.

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        #18
        Got a feeling you won't get a response...

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          #19
          Originally posted by LosRockets View Post
          Got a feeling you won't get a response...
          lol.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Jamie View Post
            As I mentioned in the other thread - almost no one else will ever notice it, especially if the rest fits well, and you are dressed well.
            So true. Until I knew what to look for, I never noticed divots, pulling of the fabric around the waist, too loose a fit in the pants etc. Ignorance is bliss!

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              #21
              Great post. How did I miss this the first time it was posted? Anyway, I tend to overlook the shoulder divot problem on my suits. If the rest of the jacket/suit fits me well, I just hope the rest of the people out there will notice that and not focus on the divot issue.

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                #22
                This is really helpful, just wondering can taking out shoulder pad give more space to the arm which helps solving the pivot problem at a lesser cost?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Sub View Post
                  This is really helpful, just wondering can taking out shoulder pad give more space to the arm which helps solving the pivot problem at a lesser cost?
                  I have a guess that all it will do is make it lay worse, but I have one suit I'd be willing to try on. I think you'd have to be willing to put in a smaller pad, at least.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by LCDR View Post
                    This was confusing to me at first, because I could not see the diagram, but it makes sense even with just the words. The real cause of shoulder divots is the armhole shape does not conform to the shape of the wearer. The ratio of the armhole height to width does not fit the wearer. If the armhole is too narrow (not wide enough from front to back), then it will pull (front-to-back), and the excess fabric height on the sleeve will collapse, and the sleeve will pull (front-to-back). This will cause the horizontal shoulder divot.
                    The real cause of shoulder divots is that suit sleeves are skin tight right now. All of the "classic" suit pictures that get trotted out to show that wide shoulders don't have divots also have wide sleeves that allow the arm to move inside the sleeve.

                    Look at all the "dimple" pictures from the first post. The sleeves are so slim that they're not just divoted but wrinkled all around the upper arm from the stress the fabric is under. A better armhole cut will alleviate the divoting somewhat, but it's going to be nearly impossible to eliminate while the sleeve is so slim. That's why the "size up" advice can actually work. It makes the shoulders wider but more importantly it makes the sleeve wider.

                    You cannot have a tight cut in the chest and sleeves and expect the one place with empty space (the shoulder) to not wrinkle/divit. The tight cut pulls at the fabric so unless you make the jacket shoulder follow the natural shoulder perfectly (and thus also be tight, and odd-looking on a suit/sports coat), the stress on the fabric will show there.

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