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Are My Shoes Trying to Tell Me Something?

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    Are My Shoes Trying to Tell Me Something?

    Good Morning Gents,

    Today is my second day wearing these black AE Cliftons, and I'm beginning to notice significant creasing above the cap toe seam. Perhaps this is more normal than I think, but most of the example photos I see online always have smooth cap toes on well made dress shoes.

    Left


    Right


    Looking around this morning, I've read recommendations that you always apply leather conditioner to soften the leather before first wearing new shoes. I didn't do that, so perhaps that is causing some of this. These shoes are from Nordstrom Rack, so it's hard to know how long they've been out of the factory.

    I believe that these are also manufactured on the 108 last which is elongated in the front (although I'm having trouble confirming this). Perhaps these are just too big? I feel like they fit me very well, but maybe I'm more of an 8.5E in this last?

    #2
    I'm not an expert by any means but I'm thinking they might be too big for you.

    Comment


      #3
      That is entirely possible. My normal size is 9.5 on a Brannock Device, but I've found that I'm a 9E in Park Aves and Fifth Aves on AE's 65 last (after trying out a 9.5D). However, these fit well in the store and didn't immediately show any creasing in this area, so I went for the deal.

      Comment


        #4
        My Weybridges do that on my left shoe. Right on the medallion too. Not sure there's anything that can be done about it... The lacing looks a bit wide on those. Have you tried a wider width?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by frost View Post
          The lacing looks a bit wide on those. Have you tried a wider width?
          +1. There's definitely some sort of fit issue with those. I'm not sure if the length is too big or too small, but they certainly don't look wide enough.

          Comment


            #6
            I'd probably go with a wider shoe as well. The Brannock also measures width of your feet as well. I was a D, but I could've gone to an E. It depends on the last.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by frost View Post
              My Weybridges do that on my left shoe. Right on the medallion too. Not sure there's anything that can be done about it... The lacing looks a bit wide on those. Have you tried a wider width?
              Originally posted by Fred G. Unn View Post
              +1. There's definitely some sort of fit issue with those. I'm not sure if the length is too big or too small, but they certainly don't look wide enough.
              I'm intrigued that you're judging fit based on the lacing. How should the lacing appear? In dress shoes, I find that the top of my foot is rather tall which leads to a larger spread in the lacing; I always assumed this was normal.

              I haven't tried a wider width in these because I purchased them on a whim. Would a wider shoe move the flex point back behind the cap toe seam? Seems to me that the length would still be an issue, but perhaps that is where something like an 8.5E would work.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Urbanitus View Post
                I'm intrigued that you're judging fit based on the lacing. How should the lacing appear? In dress shoes, I find that the top of my foot is rather tall which leads to a larger spread in the lacing; I always assumed this was normal.
                I have the same thing. According to a Brannock device, my foot is exactly 7.5D, but I also have a very high instep and "tall" foot. I frequently end up buying an 8 because a lot of 7.5 shoes, while correct in length and width, are very shallow and create a lot of pressure and tightness on the top of my foot. An 8 gives me the added volume I need for my foot.

                When I do wear a 7.5, the lacing can look a bit spread-out. For an 8, it usually looks much closer together.

                Personally, my main concern in judging shoe fit is comfort. I wear the size that's comfortable and don't care too much about whether the laces look "right" or not.
                Ben

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Urbanitus View Post
                  I'm intrigued that you're judging fit based on the lacing. How should the lacing appear?
                  Posted this in the $100 black balmoral thread too. From Alan Flusser:


                  I'm pretty sure he's talking about a balmoral not a blucher like yours but he states, "if the shoe in question is a lace-up, you should be able to tie the laces so there is no more than a quarter-inch gap between the opposing edges at the top." How far apart is your gap there? It looks really wide.

                  Here's how AE had it pictured in the catalog.

                  Now the photographer certainly had nothing to do with making the last, but I would guess the farther you get away from that shot, the more you are putting stress on the shoe in a way that was not intended by the last, which could lead to comfort issues and unwanted creasing in undesirable areas of the shoe.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I love the title of this thread. That is all.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Fred G. Unn View Post
                      Posted this in the $100 black balmoral thread too. From Alan Flusser:

                      I'm pretty sure he's talking about a balmoral not a blucher like yours but he states, "if the shoe in question is a lace-up, you should be able to tie the laces so there is no more than a quarter-inch gap between the opposing edges at the top." How far apart is your gap there? It looks really wide.
                      Wow, Fred. Thanks for the insight. Based on that I have never worn a properly fitting dress shoe in my life. My gap on these Cliftons starts at 3/4" and goes up to 1 1/4" at the top.

                      ...so now what in the hell am I supposed to do? A wider width wouldn't result in a shoe that is significantly "taller" would it?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have the same creasing into the *cap* area on my Madison Aves. Those aren't too wide or too long at all on me that I can tell; but ... they are another last (2-222) which I thought fit me pretty decent, only to find later on with more wearings that they really probably aren't meant for me. Bum. Mer.

                        So, that being said - and being not likely helpful to *your* dilemma there, Urb (sorry) - any further insight as to what type of mis-fit can cause creases up into the cap section? Is it maybe just bad design?


                        EDIT: Oh, and BTW Urb, I would think that a wider fit would allow you to draw them tighter - not necessarily allowing for more "height" but still providing more upper to wrap around your foot more. Does that make any sense?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by yoyorobbo View Post
                          Oh, and BTW Urb, I would think that a wider fit would allow you to draw them tighter - not necessarily allowing for more "height" but still providing more upper to wrap around your foot more. Does that make any sense?
                          Obviously the length and width measurements on a Brannock device are important, but neither measurement has anything really to do with the volume or shape of your foot. That last might just not work for you. I had 4 pairs of AE 5 last shoes before I realized that last just wasn't comfortable for me. (Slow learner I guess.) I've since sold them all. Going up a width would certainly give you more volume which might be a better fit for your foot, even if you measure a D on the Brannock device. Or maybe not. Only way to tell would be to try some different sizes and lasts and see which works best with your feet.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Fred G. Unn View Post
                            I had 4 pairs of AE 5 last shoes before I realized that last just wasn't comfortable for me. (Slow learner I guess.) I've since sold them all.
                            I've recently realized that I avoid wearing my AEs on the 5 last unless they're the only option. I'd sell my McAllisters and Fifth Avenues if I were still in the US.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              bruschetta, just curious since you mentioned not selling AEs while overseas... How are they (AEs) thought of in other areas/markets, especially your present one?

                              Are they more "respected" here stateside, due to the made in 'merica factor? Or does that carry over to say the UK and/or Europe? Or do the local shoes there just blow them away regardless? I know you, along with Fred (and Vicious as of late) - others here I'm sure - really seem to prefer some of the footwear from England. Just wondering how the Brits (and others) look at Allen Edmonds, or even Alden. Any insight?

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