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    I do not wash before hemming. I leave them a wee bit longer 40" out seam to adjust for shrinkage over the jeans life.

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      Thanks very much gentlemen. That is exactly the kind of advice I was looking for!

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        Originally posted by mcadamsandwich View Post
        The Heavy Americans are sanforized denim (pre-shrunk), so don't expect a lot to change with a wash. However, you can wash them to remove loose dye, starch, and to get that extra 1% shrink:

        1. Turn the pants inside out; this helps prevent excessive dye loss.
        2. Wash them by hand in the tub or in a washing machine with low agitation (hand wash setting).
        3. Use cold/room temp water for a normal wash or hot water for maximum shrink.
        4. If you want to use a detergent (no reason to at this moment), use Woolite Dark to maintain color.
        5. Hang dry the jeans.


        • Do not wear your jeans in the tub. This "method" will cause bags to form around your knees, which look weird.
        • Do not wash your jeans with any other garments.
        • Do not dry your jeans in the dryer. This is how your jeans get crumpled, which causes weird fade lines to appear that don't line up with your body.
        • For "syck fadez", wear them constantly and wash them rarely.
        • For "normal dude fades", wash them whenever they get dirty/smelly.


        The best fades are the ones you're not trying to get. Just wear them as much as possible and your life will leave it's imprint. Wabi sabi.
        Perfect! What about the oft-seen advice to use vinegar and/or salt to set the dye? If they're to be used - how much? And how much water?

        Am I overthinking?

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          No salt or vinegar. Just wear em.

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            Originally posted by Brent k View Post
            I do not wash before hemming. I leave them a wee bit longer 40" out seam to adjust for shrinkage over the jeans life.
            For sanforized I think this is ok. If you choose to go unsanforized, shrink first.

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              Originally posted by Murph65 View Post
              Perfect! What about the oft-seen advice to use vinegar and/or salt to set the dye? If they're to be used - how much? And how much water?

              Am I overthinking?
              I've heard a cup of vinegar per tub. Bear in mind that tub size varies. Also bear in mind that this is to prevent fades; if done regularly your jeans should never fade; it's for those that want to preserve the dark, dressy look.

              Also, never, ever put your raws in a washing machine with any sort of spin cycle. Worst comes to worst, hand wash and spot clean. Washing machine spin cycles causes these weird creases which lead to weird fades which look awful and completely ruin a pair. Don't do it.

              Honestly, there is no reason to do anything before hemming Gustins (unless they are the loomstate, or other unsanf). Gustins are sanforized. They will not shrink when you wash them, and you should not soak them when you first start wearing them, because that retards the fading process. Ideally, they wouldn't touch water for the first six months. Whenever you do wash them, use cold (hot can cause VERY minor shrinkage, but generally even that will be a nonfactor), and you'll be fine. I don't see why people say "wait to see how much they shrink to get them hemmed!" because sanforized jeans don't shrink on soak, and you shouldn't soak them at the beginning, so unless you want to wait six months to get them hemmed, you should just do it right away.

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                Thoughts on the new italiancdrnim/cashmere? Sounds luxurious but at 175....

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                  I'm most likely done with Gustin. They've been steadily increasing prices, they're branching out in to too many things now where the quality control is starting to suffer, and they have cut off credits to people for invites. Supposedly there's small print somewhere that says the credits are capped at $200. I exceeded that over a year ago when they were handing out $20 credits instead of $5 but they've decided to start enforcing this unknown policy in the last few months.

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                    Ive said it a few times I'm done with them. I've had a ton of issues and they used to really make sure they were taken care of. Credits, other items etc. I haven't ordered anything for a while from Gustin and have credit left. Spent some on the herringbone chinos and who knows what else.

                    I'm not impressed with recent offerings at all. Hopefully they will turn around. The key rings, CPO, city coat, scarfs all do nothing for me.

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                      Originally posted by Vicious49 View Post
                      I'm most likely done with Gustin. They've been steadily increasing prices, they're branching out in to too many things now where the quality control is starting to suffer, and they have cut off credits to people for invites. Supposedly there's small print somewhere that says the credits are capped at $200. I exceeded that over a year ago when they were handing out $20 credits instead of $5 but they've decided to start enforcing this unknown policy in the last few months.
                      I've been thinking the same thing about them branching out too far, too fast. I hope the quality doesn't drop off because of it. I've got another pair of jeans on the way for Christmas. It's also interesting how the prices have steadily risen over time. The big advantage they offered when they started out was that they were priced so well compared with products of similar quality from other brands.

                      With how expensive they have gotten, when I'm ready to buy my next pair of raw, selvedge denim, I'll have to look hard at other brands that don't have the wait time or shaky customer service.

                      With that said, I am happy with everything I've purchased from them to date.

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                        Originally posted by Brent k View Post
                        Ive said it a few times I'm done with them.
                        You crack me up, Brent.

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                          Originally posted by devastitis View Post
                          You crack me up, Brent.
                          What can I say.

                          I always thought Gustin branched out way too fast and some items I thought were a bit too fashion forward. The items I have I do love and are very worth it.

                          2015 new year new spending habits!

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                            Originally posted by Brent k View Post
                            scarves
                            Just an FYI, their scarves are really nice. Worth the $40 if anyone is in the market. Just make sure you go all-cotton or wool. None of that poly crap.

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                              Originally posted by mcadamsandwich View Post
                              Just an FYI, their scarves are really nice. Worth the $40 if anyone is in the market. Just make sure you go all-cotton or wool. None of that poly crap.
                              The flannel ones looks nice. The poly blend ones are cheesy fabrics. Wonder how the flannel scarves will hold up over time.

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                                I've had quite a few QC issues with their items - from sizing variance, crooked seams, to misplaced buttonholes - but most of their items have been solid. I'm pretty much done myself - I haven't bought anything since the spring. I'm pretty set on jeans, their shirts aren't a great fit and I despise the high side scoops, and most of their other items don't appeal to me or cost more than I care to spend. I think the chinos look nice, and I'd like to give them a shot, but when I've bought my JCrew and Club Monaco chinos for under $25, its hard to justify the extra $100. Going north of $100, I'd prefer to get a pair of nice wool trousers, not cotton chinos. I do think they've lost some of their competitive advantage in their more recent product expansion.

                                That said, I think they still offer a great value for jeans (cashmere, silk, and other silliness aside), and offer some unique colors and fabrics. I think they make some good things that should appeal to fans of workwear. I find myself wearing more tailored and classic menswear nowadays... but when I'm wearing a pair of jeans, more often than not they are Gustins.

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