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    Overcoat Investment

    I'm on the hunt for a new overcoat. I've got a black one that does ok from BR, but my navy one from Zara needs replaced. It looked cool, but never really was warm at ALL. My budget is higher than Zara now, but not quite Tom Ford. Any thoughts? Ideally, I'd love to find an overcoat that would fit well over a suit and would have some sort of removable down liner or something. It can get COLD in the Midwest, especially now that it's so dry.

    Thank you, gentlemen!

    #2
    Spier & Mackay. Like I mentioned in a previous thread and a review late last year, these are perfect. They kept me warm during a Chicago snowstorm. I think the quality is on par with coats double the price.

    This question becomes a common occurrence this time of year. Joe, maybe you should include overcoat options in the Essentials Shop.

    Comment


      #3
      all of my vintage overcoats, which tend to be very heavy materials, do not have linings, nor do they need them. They have a little like smooth suit jacket lining type 'satin' lining for smoothness, but they are already on the border of uncomfortably warm as they are. They are great through out my winter commute on the bus and train in Boston. I think most of them are 100% cashmere or 100% melton wood, or some combination thereof.

      even with all my overcoats, i've actually found that I like my Duffle coat the very best of all of the overcoats and other dressy jackets i have. Having that hood is just such a winner and I love it so much all the time when it is crappy outside. I love it! I wore it maybe 65% of the entirety of last winter. I think i have a mid 1990's J press one i love. It is not a gloverall built one, for whatever that is worth. They make a great jacket, i just don't have one.

      the BR coat you have might just be what i would call a 'california winter jacket' in that it might not be up to any real winter cold. You should keep an eye out though, i think the interplay between an actual padded lining, or lack thereof, and the thickness of the shell really are the key to getting your temperature requirement right.

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        #4
        What about something like this? Hoping that tag is removable. That's bad.

        https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Golde...ently%20viewed

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by IowaHawkguy View Post
          What about something like this? Hoping that tag is removable. That's bad.

          https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Golde...ently%20viewed
          I swear, I'm not paid by SM but you can get this coat from SM at half the price. The problem with that BB coat, aside from price, is that it provides no information about the fabric composition. The "tech" name suggests there's some synthetic fibers in there which is going to be terrible for heat retention, which I presume was the problem with the Zara coat.

          Comment


            #6
            I'm not aware of any true overcoats that have removable liners. For that you'd probably need to look at a parka or tech/ski style coat. Good overcoats will tend to have linings similar to a suit jacket. This makes it a lot easier to get on and off over a suit jacket which is their intended purpose.

            Regarding the Brooks Brothers option... I'm guessing the lining is why you like it, but that is not an overcoat. It barely comes down to the middle of the thighs on the model. Classic overcoats should hit closer to the knees in order to provide more coverage from the cold.

            If you're not dead set on a removable liner, I'd recommend Spier & Mackay as well. They have several "heavyweight" options and seeing as how they are based in Canada I would imagine they hold up really well in the cold.

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              #7
              ACTUALLY i have one recommendation i forgot about, you will see below, i used to have this BROOKSSTORM jacket it is was a modern miracle. Felt like regular wool coat fabric, and it sheeted water and other stuff like a rain coat. light as polar fleece. it was a damned miracle of textile science. you should buy one if you ever can find one used, they are epic epic epic winter coats.

              they are greatly underrated, and not even well documented by brooks bros on the technology involved, which i would guess involves treating the fibers of some wool with a whole lot of complicated floropolomers? who even knows.

              https://threads.dappered.com/forum/c...d-fits-42r-40r

              Comment


                #8
                You could always add a puffer or quilted insulated vest under the overcoat in casual situations. I also find that an extra layer on my lower half - long john bottoms - keeps me much more comfortable in cold weather. People generally layer up a lot more on their upper half (t shirt, shirt, sweater, jacket or coat - or both) but only really have one layer on their lower half - whatever pants their wearing. Long johns add a full extra insulating layer down there and I find it makes a big difference in my comfort level if I'm outside for extended periods in the cold.
                “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” – Mark Twain

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thank you, all. I'll let you know where I end up! Cheers.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by garryowen47 View Post

                    I swear, I'm not paid by SM but you can get this coat from SM at half the price. The problem with that BB coat, aside from price, is that it provides no information about the fabric composition. The "tech" name suggests there's some synthetic fibers in there which is going to be terrible for heat retention, which I presume was the problem with the Zara coat.
                    Not sure why synthetics get such bad rap, a "tech" parka like the Norwegian Rain Moscow is going to be infinitely better for actual winter conditions vs any topcoat from SM or BB or w/e. Also the BB coat says it's a water / wind resistant fabric from VBC, and I trust VBC to make a good fabric. I wouldn't be too surprised if it was still all natural fibers but just treated (like what LP does with their storm / rain system). Plus, with the liner I don't think it'd be meaningfully less warm than the SM option, but bottom line is neither one is suited for really cold / winter conditions.
                    Instagram: WoofOrWeft

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Token View Post

                      Not sure why synthetics get such bad rap, a "tech" parka like the Norwegian Rain Moscow is going to be infinitely better for actual winter conditions vs any topcoat from SM or BB or w/e. Also the BB coat says it's a water / wind resistant fabric from VBC, and I trust VBC to make a good fabric. I wouldn't be too surprised if it was still all natural fibers but just treated (like what LP does with their storm / rain system). Plus, with the liner I don't think it'd be meaningfully less warm than the SM option, but bottom line is neither one is suited for really cold / winter conditions.
                      Synthetics get a bad rep because they do a poor job of emulating the functionality of natural fibers: heat retention and breathability. For parkas, it's fine for the shell to be made of synthetic fibers like nylon, however, you need a down filling to maximize warmth. A polyester-filled parka will be serviceable in milder climates, but in true winter conditions you're going to need the natural warmth of down filling.

                      Regarding overcoats vs. parkas, this is where weight matters, as was discussed earlier in this thread. A heavy overcoat at +/- 700 grams will perform well in frigid conditions. For arctic conditions you'll definitely want a parka, which is how Canada Goose earned their reputation. But for business wear in urban environments, the sturdy overcoat will be the superior option. In between exploring the arctic and navigating a subway, there's certainly plenty of room to decide between the parka and overcoat based on your unique needs. Regardless, however, you're going to want natural fibers.

                      Finally, even if the BB coat is comprised of natural fibers, my point remains that the SM coat does all the same things at half the price.
                      Last edited by garryowen47; October 1, 2020, 10:24 AM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by garryowen47 View Post

                        Synthetics get a bad rep because they do a poor job of emulating the functionality of natural fibers: heat retention and breathability. For parkas, it's fine for the shell to be made of synthetic fibers like nylon, however, you need a down filling to maximize warmth. A polyester-filled parka will be serviceable in milder climates, but in true winter conditions you're going to need the natural warmth of down filling.

                        Regarding overcoats vs. parkas, this is where weight matters, as was discussed earlier in this thread. A heavy overcoat at +/- 700 grams will perform well in frigid conditions. For arctic conditions you'll definitely want a parka, which is how Canada Goose earned their reputation. But for business wear in urban environments, the sturdy overcoat will be the superior option. In between exploring the arctic and navigating a subway, there's certainly plenty of room to decide between the parka and overcoat based on your unique needs. Regardless, however, you're going to want natural fibers.

                        Finally, even if the BB coat is comprised of natural fibers, my point remains that the SM coat does all the same things at half the price.
                        I'm not trying to start a discussion about 100% poly coats that are using synthetics mainly to cut costs, you're claiming that the BB coat is going to be bad because it might not be 100% natural fibers and I don't agree with that. For starters, VBC's not going to stick some synthetic into their fabrics solely for the purpose of saving a few pennies. Second the fabric is treated to be water-resistant which goes a long way in wintery conditions, and third it has a liner which'll help with warmth. The main drawbacks are that it's short, it has the giant BB logo / patch thing which looks weird, and it looks like it doesn't button all the way up so you'll need a scarf. Just seems weird (and wrong) to claim that the fabric composition making it bad at heat retention is the dealbreaker especially when you don't even know what the fabric composition is.

                        I don't particularly care for the BB coat but always helpful to keep in mind that at the end of the day we're on a men's style forum talking about clothes that we wear to feel good but also look good. Aesthetics matter and people have different tastes, the tendency to tunnel vision on features for the price means that every recommendation ends up being the same 3 brands. Reading "SM does all the same things at the half the price" makes me feel like we're talking about buying washing machines instead of clothes...
                        Instagram: WoofOrWeft

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The lack of certainty about the fabric composition is kinda my point: I wouldn’t spend $700+ on a coat that even educated consumers like those on this forum have no idea what exactly is being paid for. It’s not my money, but if you’re looking for best value I would easily go with the SM because of the flaws on the BB that you also pointed out.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Suitreview has some fantastic suitsupply kit right now.

                            Also Go Cyclones.

                            (Grew up in Ames)
                            https://www.professorhorseyhead.com

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I'd honestly recommend INDOCHINO. Their overcoats are astonishingly good quality. I worked there for over a year (pre-COVID). I'm definitely not endorsed by them, and boy have I got stories -- there are some things you should really avoid when shopping there, but some things they do quite well. Overcoats fall into the latter category. The fit is impeccable, and the length is perfect and true-overcoat. Mine hits mid-knee on me, and I'm 6 foot 5. You can also get the velvet contrast collar, which I can report looks quite a lot better in person than it does on their website.

                              And while they don't do removable lining, you can get an extra-warm quilted lining.

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