The White Dress Shirt Dilemma - Translucency

[diversification]

The White Dress Shirt Dilemma (WDSD) refers to the issue that many many white dress shirts suffer from, to wit, translucency. Affected white dress shirts pose a number of issues: they show ANY undershirt you're wearing (yes, even heather grey), they take on some of your skin tone which looks strange and they just end up looking cheap. This is a VERY common problem that seems to plague reasonably priced white dress shirts everywhere.


Yesterday I frantically scanned a mall looking for a slim fit white dress shirt that didn't suffer from the WDSD. I checked JCP, Lord & Taylor, Banana Republic, GAP, Old Navy, J Crew, H&M and Kohl's. I've been through Macy's so many times that I didn't even bother. Not a single place had a white dress shirt (slim or otherwise) that was able to avoid the WDSD.


Has anyone found a white dress shirt that isn't horrible? Can they be found without wandering into the $100+ price range? Please discuss.

[redbeardedmike]

@diversification - I find translucency a problem with poplins. Try some other weaves like twill.


You can definitely find them for < $100. This for example.

[emarxnj]

I notice you didn't mention Target. I have one of the Merona white dress shirts and I don't have any problems with translucency. Not 100% cotton though, but I doubt all of the brands/stores you listed are.

[alan]

It's been a common problem for me, too. More expensive shirts don't seem to alleviate the issue, either (at least not from my experience). I'll be following this thread.

[greg_s]

Yes this annoying. They also show tattoos through, FYI. I alleviate these issues by always wearing something over them (sweater or blazer).

[alan]

@greg_s: Same here.

[Eyerman]

I'm about as white as the shirt, so no problem for me. Im almost clear.

[zerostyle]

Agree w/ redbeardmike - the twill and herringbone shirts I have are less of a problem.

[alan]

Even the one herringbone white shirt I own is not 100% opaque.

[Shomas]

My white Bonobos dress shirt doesn't seem to exhibit this problem. I'm pretty sure it's totally opaque - or close to it. Actually, same with my Uniqlo one, now that I think of it. I'll confirm tonight at home.

[diversification]

I had a feeling I'd be seeing suggestions for twill and herringbone weaves (end on end is probably another one). I really wish that more manufacturers would adopt those weaves. Personally, I think they look far better than the pinpoint, broadcloth, poplin, WhateverTheHellYouWantToCallThem weaves; they add that often mentioned bit of visual depth which is wonderful in almost all circumstances.


I would imagine that shirt that redbeardedmike listed from CT is completely opaque. The problem is, very few find-them-almost-anywhere brick and mortar stores carrying anything like this (I'm a US citizen... you British folks are lucky with regard to this). If they do, it's typically made for someone with a 16.5" neck, 57" chest, 65" waist and 32" sleeves (I'm being facetious but you get what I mean).


Anyway, thanks for the advice. Please keep it coming!


EDIT: That would be exciting if Uni has an actual dress shirt that was opaque. I'm not talking oxford material though...

[bruschetta]

I have the Charles Tyrwhitt shirt that redbeardedmike mentioned. You cannot see an undershirt through it.

[redbeardedmike]

After a minute or two of googling:


Macy's


Nordstrom


Every Nordstrom Rack I've been to has a Nordstrom Smart Carr trim fit white twill on sale for about $30 in loads of sizes.


Free shipping and free returns from Nordstrom. Charles Tyrwhitt has free returns and they often have sales featuring free shipping.


I think you don't see a ton of twill dress shirts because it is a thicker fabric and presumably less breathable under a suit. I also got the feeling that herringbone and twill were considered slightly less formal - but that could just be because not many people seem to offer them.


I don't wear a lot of white under suits, but I recently had a white, twill, herringbone shirt made from Blank Label. I'm pretty pleased with he fabric. See pics here.

[Shomas]

@diversification: the Uniqlo shirt I'm referring to is not oxford material. I bought it a few years ago, so they may not even have the same thing available anymore. In any event, I'll take a look when I get home tonight and update.

[redbeardedmike]

I should also mention that a number of the Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are available through their current 'shirts for $39.50 + free tie' promotion that runs through 10/31. There are a handful available, some in each of their fits.


Just use the url www.ctshirts.com/colin and click through to access the deal (don't worry, not a referral link).