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Which length of this blazer is the better fit?

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    Which length of this blazer is the better fit?



    they are both the same size, one is a Regular and the other is a Short. Both fit, the difference is in the sleeve and overall length. Button stance is about 1" different.


    http://imgur.com/a/BFvB7/all#0


    #2


    Regular. The back of the blazer is supposed to cover your ass. You'll need the sleeves shortened a little.

    5'8" 155 lbs 39" chest 33" sleeves 33" waist

    Comment


      #3


      The Short looks, well...short. Like Redford said, go with the regular and tailor the sleeves.

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        #4


        The regular looks absolutely perfect, IMO.


        Regulars always run a little too long for me and shorts too short. You seem to be lucky to have the regular land just right.

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          #5


          damn... i was thinking the short was spot on, especially with lengths trending toward shorter these days. I'm 5'8'' and i know the traditional rule is regular for 5'8'' to 6' but i'm right on the cusp. if i go with the regular i will definitely have the sleeves tailored which is no problem. Really thought i had called this one right, still learning...

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            #6


            It's a preference thing. Plenty of people are out wearing short cropped jackets, but you're asking folks on a site that favors a "classic, timeless" style. I would go with the regular and tailor the sleeves too. Three years from now, it'll still be good to go.

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              #7


              Nicholas thanks for the advice. I think i've been a little desensitized from seeing so many shorter jackets in recent years. They probably won't stick around too long, in fact such was mentioned in one of the postings on the main site earlier today in reference to the J Crew Aldridge. It's nice to have the perspectives of the great people on this board. Chapeau!

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                #8


                nicholascrawford, O Fortuna velut luna statu variabilis! I have converted you to butt-covering jacket lengths!


                jwest, I agree that you should go with the regular. Traditional lengths will always be in style. Another advantage will be that you'll be taken more seriously by adults.

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                  #9


                  Let me attempt a small diversion of this thread which is already on the topic of jacket length. I've been wanting a trim, modern looking navy blazer (but not goofy looking; still business appropriate for a guy in his 40s). I own a Brooks Brothers madison for if I need to look "classic", but I've lately decided it looks just too boxy and old man-ish. To wit: looking for something a bit more modern but not so modern that it will be out of style soon.


                  So here's the actual question: my perfect jacket length seems to be about 29.5 inches from BOC (I'm about 5'81/2"). I'm looking at the Charles Tyrwhitt (here: http://www.ctshirts.com/Navy--tailored--fit--blazer?q=usddefault||BL038NAV|||||||||||||


                  The 40R has a length of 29.9" but the sleeves are too long for me (functional cuffs, difficult to alter). The 40S has a length of 28.9" and the sleeves are just right.


                  So my question is, do you think the 0.6 inches difference between the 40S and my "optimal" length of 29.5 will make a real difference?

                  Comment


                    #10


                    @AMProf: I'm 5'9, and find that a 29" BOC is actually just about right for me. 29.5" tends to be a touch long, so I suspect that you'd be ok at a similar height.


                    Keep in mind that BOC does not always perfectly correlate with the length in the front, though. Some jackets have a slightly longer skirt than others.


                    I often have to take the sleeves up, even on 38 short jackets, so I suspect the 40 short sleeves might need some altering for you also.

                    Comment


                      #11


                      @AMProf - I recently ordered a Classic Fit CT Blazer, but last year's model (with slanted pockets and horn buttons). I ordered it in a 38R and I thought it was a bit short (see pictures here and here).


                      I wound up sending it back. I measured it as a little shorter in both the length and the sleeve than what was mentioned on the website. I think the jacket length was just under 30" (versus the listed 30.5") and the sleeves were also about a 0.5" shorter than the listed 25.4". I'm 6' so this is a little short for me. My ideal length is something like 31" with 25.5" sleeves. I wound up returning to exchange for a 40L (the lapels didn't lay flat so it was also a little snug in the chest). I hope the new blazer's measurements are a bit more accurate.


                      Anyway, I thought I'd share my experience with the length on one of their blazers. If the actual blazers do run shorter than listed, I'd definitely get the regular. I think you have at least 3/4" to that you could shorten, even with the functional cuffs, though you could call (24 hour customer service) or chat with them for more specific info on sleeve length.


                      Another option is that you go for the Classic Fit. As Bookman noted in another thread, this is a pretty trim in its own right. You can see in the pictures I posted that it doesn't fit like a sack. I could have had the waist taken in and I think it would have looked pretty fitted, without the slimmer lapels of the Tailored Fit version (if you're looking for a look that isn't so modern that it may be out of style soon). The Tailored Fit lapel is 6 cm (2.3") while the Classic Fit is 8 cm (3.14")- at least that was the difference on last year's models.

                      Comment


                        #12


                        This is really great info RBM. The regular is a no-go for me as the sleeves would need to be shortened by about an inch or more (the specs are 25.4 inch sleeves on a 40R, and I take a 24 in sleeve at the most)(which could lead us into another debate about the wisdom of OTR jackets with functional cuffs). So basically its a question between the short or finding another company. Alas, I've found it surprisingly hard to find a somewhat modern fit blue blazer that I like. The pictures of the blazer on you look maybe a little short, but not crazy short, and you've got a good 3-4 inches of height on me.


                        BTW, I'm surprised you'd wear a 38R unless you're quite skinny. I'm about 155 lbs at 5'9", and assuming that their jackets are a little tight, I decided to go for a 40R (I'm usually a 39 regular, ideal chest is about 42 inches true PTP measure). In talking to their customer service reps, when I asked for chest measurements, they state (like I'm some kind of moron: "well, its a 40 inch chest, sir, on a 40 jacket"). I'd be interested in what they actually measure pit-to-pit, as a true 40 jacket should have an actual chest measurement of 44 inches (sometimes 43 or 42, but classic is 4 inches bigger than your true chest measurement).


                        What did you think about the overall quality of the blazer? Over on styleforum I've heard some snarky things, but those guys are mostly playing at a different pricepoint than am I. Would be interested in your impressions.

                        Comment


                          #13


                          @AMProf - I thought the quality was pretty good. It seemed well-constructed, with nicely appointed pockets and lining. I've felt softer/better wools, but it was still perfectly fine. I got it on sale during the last month-end-of-season sale for $270 shipped. If I can make it work with tailoring, I think it would be a deal at that price - especially considering that the Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald blazer goes for $400 on sale (usually closer to $600) and seems of similar quality.


                          Shipping is free > $75 and there are free returns, so there is little harm in ordering it and checking it out. I believe items not on sale have a liberal 6 month return policy as well.


                          I'm 6' and 175 - slim, but not too skinny. My shoulders are relatively narrow, so I've found that I sometimes need a 38 to fit the shoulders. Recently, I've run into a couple of jackets where the chest is too small in a 38 - I probably need a 39R in the CT blazer and the Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald - but that size has worked well for other vendors (Suit Supply, J Crew - though not J Crew Factory).


                          Some of Tyrwhitt's customer service reps are better than others. I also got responses like, "It's a 38 so the chest is 38." I think you'll have better luck if you call. Free, 24H support. They probably won't know the answer, but they'll research it and call you back.


                          If you're really concerned about the sleeves on a regular, you can just ask the distance between the button and the end of the sleeve to see how close you'd be cutting it to the button if you needed to shorten it.

                          Comment


                            #14


                            Great information being posted here. I'm learning alot and have some things to throw back in the ring. Everyone seemed to agree from the pics that the Reg length was the better fit. However after reading the recent discussions i measured the jackets length from the bottom collar seam. The Regular is 31" and the Small is 29.5". I am 5' 8 1/2" just like AMProf and zerostyle who both are saying that 29- 29.5 is the ideal. My body is normal proportioned so that's not a factor.


                            Thoughts?

                            Comment


                              #15


                              @jwest - Length is a preference thing. There are lots of 'rules of thumb' (some actually involving the thumb as a measuring point). I finally ended up going with the midpoint from your collar to the floor thing (see Primer for visual illustration), which will not vary with the length of your arm.


                              Plus, I think that the torso-focused perspective in your pictures obscures whether the jacket is proportionally appropriate given your height, etc. Thats why I tried to show a little more of my legs in the pictures above.

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