To cuff or not to cuff

[JoshB]

I know the general rule of "no pleat, no cuff" but I was recently recommended to cuff a flat-front navy wool trouser to add more character to it. This is not part of a suit. I was a bit hesitant but agreed with the option that we can pull the cuff if I'm not satisfied. I haven't seen the end result yet but I'm curious what your thoughts on cuff versus no cuff.

[kenneth]

I wonder how many people actually consider "no pleat, no cuff" a rule... I think it wholly depends on 1) your build, and 2) what sort of fit you're going for. Heavier gentlemen are often well suited with pleats, as it makes the pants fit better with a higher rise. With regard to cuffs, it can make taller men look less spindly and stork-like by breaking up the outline. Also cuffs help weigh down the bottom of the trousers to make them drape better if the man likes a somewhat more classically "loose" fit, but if he prefers a much tighter MensStylePro/StyleBlogger fit, no cuffs are needed.


So I really think that both cuffs and pleats are acceptable, but also acknowledge that it's a matter of some considerable debate.

[tomservo]

I'd say no pleats no cuffs is a "rule" because it's so easy to make it look bad if you don't know what you're doing.


I really dislike cuffs personally but they can be employed well in the scenarios Kenneth stated above.

[JoshB]

I'm 6'3 200lbs so I'm definitely taller and on the skinnier side so I'm hoping they come out with that "less spindly" look that you describe, Kenneth. They are a more fitted pant though. I'm very cautious about these, especially with the higher price point.

[kenneth]

What pants are you referring to exactly? Perhaps post a picture? Cuffed/fitted pants can go very well together quite often. Most of the fits posted on SF feature them.

[kenneth]

Here's an excellent example of cuffed pants that are fitted and work very well (MaoMao):


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/...d21e7f8d_z.jpg

[hornsup84]

@Kenneth -- those have pleats

[kenneth]

Your point being...? . It's just an example of how fitted works with cuffs AND pleats, evidently. If MaoMao can do it, anyone can do it.

[hornsup84]

Yes, yes. Just giving you a hard time.

[kman17]

pleats are for old farts.

[greg_s]

Well.. not really. Traditional suiting, and especially those at the extreme high end often still use pleated pants. Flat front is getting more and more ubiquitous but Kiton, Canali, Isaia, etc often still design suits to have a traditional, higher waisted pant. These nearly require pleats for a proper fit. They don't look bad at all when done correctly. I forget the name of the thread, but SF has a similar thread to our WIWT but with people in several thousand dollar suits. Many will be rocking the pleats and looking extremely sharp.

[kenneth]

Here is the thread, and note the frequent occurrence of pleats done right:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/253439/w...-fame-pre-2010

[JoshB]

I believe these are the pants, one in navy and one in black, though apparently the ones I have linked to are a dark blue.


http://store-us.hugoboss.com/Modern-Fit-%27Sharp1-US%27-Dress-Pant/hbna50232196,en_US,pd.html&cgid=133014#!i%3D25%26c olor%3D401_Dark-Blue


The more I look at them the more I think I'm going to regret having a cuff on them.

[kenneth]

Looking at it, I'm not sure... But like you said, you can always have them removed, it's a pretty simple procedure. But you need to decide pretty much immediately after getting them, if you wear them for a while (and I'm talking a good bit) and then let them down, you may run into an issue where there is a clear line of wear that looks strange.


Maybe post a picture when they come in?

[JoshB]

Will do. Purchased them on Sunday so I'll re-post when I get them in.