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I have a shorter friend who is interested in picking up his style and was wondering if any of you guys knew what range of heights "S" length blazers are designed for.
You see my problem with OTR stuff: I'm 6'1" with a 36.25" chest.
In general, hardly anyone has a chest over 45" (there, but not many of you). Suit manufacturers would do well to make smaller shoulder sizes but offer a range of waist sizes since someone buying a 54R is really just doing it to cover their gut - not because they're Ronnie Coleman. Because of the current system, you wind up with the pastor I saw today wearing a suit too big in the shoulders to accomodate his midsection.
It REALLY depends on the manufacturer and the cut.
If you ask most sales reps in department stores, they will tell you that shorts start around 5'7.
However, at 5'9, I can tell you that for any more traditionally cut jacket, a short works WAY better for me than a regular.
For my height, here's what I've tried on and what lengths work:
Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald / Regent: The 38 short was way too short, the 38 regular a touch long but acceptable
eHaberdasher Benjamin: The 38 short of their old cut was perfect (~29" BOC), but they just shortened all of their jackets by about .5"
H&M blazer - 38 regular fits me, but is about as short as I could go (~28" BOC measurement)
Uniqlo blazer - slim, medium - fits ~ 28" BOC on the shorter side
Tommy hilfiger blazer - 38 short fit best
Anyway, I'd say that in general, 5'8 and shorter always go with a short. If you're 5'9 like me, you're probably right on the edge and have to try on the jacket to see where it lies. Modern cuts and sport coats tend to run shorter so you can usually go with a regular. Traditional cuts you'll usually need a short.
For me, I know roughly a 29" BOC measurement works perfectly for me, so I try to base it off that. Of course, sometimes the front skirt of a jacket isn't in the same proportion as the back measurement.
Like zerostyle said, it depends on a lot of things. My 34R blazer from H&M is the exact same length as another 34S blazer I own. Both measure 27.5" from the bottom of the collar. I could go a little bit shorter (but not by much) or a bit longer, but I think it's the ideal length at 5'6".
I'm 5'9. I'm right on that bubble of S/R, and it really just depends on the jacket. Most S's are too short are R's are a little too long which means I am friends with my tailor. You guys have it good in the 5'10 to 6'3 range.
@Jeremy, the grass isn't always greener. I have the hardest time finding things that fit in the sleeves. Often, the sleeves can't even be lengthened enough.
"You don't need money to dress better than you do" - Salvatore Romano
This jacket looks short on the model, but he's 6'3", size M. Kinda hard to tell, but if I'm 5'6", size XS, will it look good on me?
I asked their customer support for measurements, but with my legendary luck, the blazer might be out of stock before I get an answer. That's the first affordable cotton navy blazer in size XS I could find, I really really want it.
Yeah, that chart is just a sample. Different manufacturers have different sizes, and different cuts make a difference. It's just a guidline. There are actually two different lenghts on a jacket: the sleeve lenght, and the length from the collar to the bottom of the jacket. These two measurements don't necessarily correllate with each other, and neither of them is exactly related to total height. Beyond that, some men like to wear jackets at different lenghts.
So a chart like that can be used as a preliminary guide, but don't put your money down just based on the arbitrary numbers in the chart. And yes, functional buttons on RTW jackets are evil. Even worse than fixed pre-hemmed trouser lengths of 30, 32, and 34.
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