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Spier and Mackay - Newer unfused collars impossible to iron?

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    Spier and Mackay - Newer unfused collars impossible to iron?

    I now have three S&M shirts with collars that look like hot garbage after attempting to iron them. Two of them are lightweight oxfords. One is a purple line dress shirt with a semi-spread collar. All three are white. I've been buying S&M shirts for years now and I'm no stranger to an iron. Two of these shirts arrived this week and one is from last summer. I had two Brooks USA made Original Polos show up today and they ironed beautifully. My old SM shirts still iron beautifully.

    Has anyone else ran into this? It's annoying on the OCBDs, but it's completely unacceptable on the dress shirt. I sent a message and photo to SM asking for advice, but I was curious if anyone else has had this issue.

    #2
    Per SM, it looks like my ironing game just needs to step up a few notches.

    Comment


      #3
      Interesting topic. I was really tempted by the non-fused (unfused?) collars on the purple line, but had this very concern. It seems the inclination is to always default to unfused > fused, but I wonder if shirt collars are the exception. Because of the small surface area and distance between the front and the back, I could see ironing being a total nightmare. Especially if there is ANY shrinkage in the laundry. I find some shirts tend to shrink more at the seams/stitching than they do elsewhere, creating an insufferable pucker.

      Most, if not all, of my current shirts are of the non-iron variety, and I don't even touch the collars with an iron after getting them out of the drier for fear of melting the fusing and creating the dreaded bubble. I do run a light iron over them otherwise to get them crispy. I also do all of my own ironing and have for over a decade since I came to the conclusion that taking shirts to the dry cleaner was not an option as I could NEVER find one that didn't eventually slip up and ruin a shirt by over-pressing etc. They're especially adept at ruining darker colored shirts. It's also just too expensive if you wear a dress shirt most days.

      Guess I'll stick to my non-iron shirts for now, sorry you're running into this issue, but thank you for the warning.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Shife View Post
        Per SM, it looks like my ironing game just needs to step up a few notches.
        What was the problem you were having and what did they advise to do differently?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by CK83 View Post
          Interesting topic. I was really tempted by the non-fused (unfused?) collars on the purple line, but had this very concern. It seems the inclination is to always default to unfused > fused, but I wonder if shirt collars are the exception. Because of the small surface area and distance between the front and the back, I could see ironing being a total nightmare. Especially if there is ANY shrinkage in the laundry. I find some shirts tend to shrink more at the seams/stitching than they do elsewhere, creating an insufferable pucker.

          Most, if not all, of my current shirts are of the non-iron variety, and I don't even touch the collars with an iron after getting them out of the drier for fear of melting the fusing and creating the dreaded bubble. I do run a light iron over them otherwise to get them crispy. I also do all of my own ironing and have for over a decade since I came to the conclusion that taking shirts to the dry cleaner was not an option as I could NEVER find one that didn't eventually slip up and ruin a shirt by over-pressing etc. They're especially adept at ruining darker colored shirts. It's also just too expensive if you wear a dress shirt most days.

          Guess I'll stick to my non-iron shirts for now, sorry you're running into this issue, but thank you for the warning.
          Yes, the unfused collar is a nightmare to iron. Their response was along the lines of "They are made for shirt enthusiasts and for those who want old school techniques. They require more skill and care than regular shirts." I can appreciate that, and in the case of the dress shirt, I should have paid closer attention to the description, because I prefer more structured collars. Given their lack of selection in common sizes, I jumped on a one of the few white semi-spread dress shirts they had in my size. I don't like the "non iron" fabrics, but I see their appeal.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Slubby Linen View Post
            What was the problem you were having and what did they advise to do differently?
            The collar fabric "bubbles" for lack of a better term and is difficult to iron without creasing the thin layers. I'll just have to get better at ironing them. In the case of the lightweight oxfords, the fabric is thin yet coarse and ends up with the same problem at the collar.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Shife View Post
              Their response was along the lines of "They are made for shirt enthusiasts and for those who want old school techniques. They require more skill and care than regular shirts."
              This strikes me a pretentious response. It's essentially, "Maybe these shirts aren't for you, sweetie" I'm all for Spier, every dress shirt I own, nearly every suit, and most of my sport coats are from them, but if this is how they're going to treat us, then I'm not particularly interested in giving them my cash. I have enough clothes to last years (if quarantine has taught me anything, it's that I've spent too much effort and money on clothes) with decent rotation and care.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Shife View Post
                Yes, the unfused collar is a nightmare to iron. Their response was along the lines of "They are made for shirt enthusiasts and for those who want old school techniques. They require more skill and care than regular shirts." I can appreciate that, and in the case of the dress shirt, I should have paid closer attention to the description, because I prefer more structured collars. Given their lack of selection in common sizes, I jumped on a one of the few white semi-spread dress shirts they had in my size. I don't like the "non iron" fabrics, but I see their appeal.
                It sounds like a lame excuse to me.
                WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Alex.C View Post
                  T(if quarantine has taught me anything, it's that I've spent too much effort and money on clothes).
                  Same.
                  WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    what you need is water and starch, and lots of upper body strength to push the iron. crank that iron the fuck up if it's an oxford shirt, the thick cloth takes a lot to get going. you also need to have a bone dry ironing board, if it's all water logged shit won't happen. that will work for everything.


                    ...unless they are non iron shirts in the first place, which are just going to be hopeless to get perfect.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by evanparker View Post
                      what you need is water and starch, and lots of upper body strength to push the iron. crank that iron the fuck up if it's an oxford shirt, the thick cloth takes a lot to get going. you also need to have a bone dry ironing board, if it's all water logged shit won't happen. that will work for everything.


                      ...unless they are non iron shirts in the first place, which are just going to be hopeless to get perfect.
                      The two oxfords are lightweight versions and very thin. The dress shirt is very thin. The absence of fusing means I'd destroy the collars if I went all roid rage on them.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I don't know enough about tailoring to argue their response. I have other shirts with unstructured collars that aren't this difficult to iron. I like SM and a lot of my shirts are from them. Though I have purchased a bunch of BB Original Polos and I just stocked up on some Tyrhwitt dress shirts during the pandemic sales. I want to keep supporting SM as I like what they offer, but it's hard to find basic stock like solid white or blue shirts in my size from them and I'll be sure to avoid anything with an unfused collar from them at this point.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Alex.C View Post
                          This strikes me a pretentious response. It's essentially, "Maybe these shirts aren't for you, sweetie" I'm all for Spier, every dress shirt I own, nearly every suit, and most of my sport coats are from them, but if this is how they're going to treat us, then I'm not particularly interested in giving them my cash. I have enough clothes to last years (if quarantine has taught me anything, it's that I've spent too much effort and money on clothes) with decent rotation and care.
                          Agree. I depend solely on S&M for my shirts, trousers and sportcoats. However, such responses are not acceptable.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I was just on their website this morning browsing around. They've completely redone the way it looks and it is a lot easier to navigate now. However, I did notice that the descriptions for some of their items have become much simpler but others (like their sportcoats) are still very complex.

                            For example, the description for the basic white dress shirt now just says:
                            100% Egyptian Cotton
                            Button Down Collar
                            One Button Round Cuff

                            Seems you wouldn't even know about the fused or unfused collar now unless you reached out to them to ask. But of course by the time they got back to you the item might be sold out....

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by abh159 View Post
                              I was just on their website this morning browsing around. They've completely redone the way it looks and it is a lot easier to navigate now.
                              Ha they literally just launched the new site this morning. Rick is busy putting out fires relating to site tech issues on SF.
                              FWIW, they appear to have done a physical inventory and dug out a bunch of previously OOS items.

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