Looking for a first suit

[MagM]

All right, I'm 22, in grad school, and have never needed to dress up beyond slacks, a button-up and a blazer. I like wearing ties and regularly toss them in with jeans, blazers and cardigans, but have never owned or worn a suit.


I just got back from giving it a shot at Macy's, but my goodness, their 'trim' suit pants look like something MC Hammer would wear--these were the Tommy Hilfiger slim fits. The sales associate told me that it was the slimmest they had in store for suiting. Others may find them trim, but I've got extra difficulty--I have stork-like legs. Wide-legged pants flap around when I wear them, and I'm always wearing slim-fit chinos or jeans.


Can any of you help me out? I'm not sure what my options are here. Should I just buy the parachute pants and see if I can get a tailor to slim them down a good bit? Is there some company out there making suits with a true slimmed down leg?

[videorecipes]

hmmm...i was going to suggest you try lands' end's tailored fit suiting. i just received a suit in the mail for about $235, and the jacket is just about perfect. but if you found the pants on the tommy to be too baggy, the lands' end probably won't be much better off the rack.


i've tried on some dress pants by h&m, and they are a true skinny fit - too skinny for me, but might work for you! i'd just caution you that h&m makes suits at several different quality levels (gray label, black label, etc.) with even their highest quality suits being not so great.


i think it'd be best to go with a tommy, alfani red, or lands' end, and then take the pants to a tailor to see if you can trim down the leg width. that should be something they can do.

[mikesam82]

Great brands for suits around your price range (I'm several years older than you, and they're still "my price range") are Zara, JCrew, Banana, H&M, or if you live in or around Manhattan, go to Uniqlo or Topman. Very reasonable prices, nice styles (they're all fashion imitators of significantly pricier labels), and great fits. Stay away from Mens Wearhouse and Joseph A Bank, stay away from the JCPennys and Macys, avoid department store suits until you're ready to spend quite a bit more at a higher-end department store (Nordstrom, Bloomingdales).


As always, splurge on the tailor, not the garment. No matter where you buy, your tailor should be your next stop.


Good luck

[BKA]

If you have some time to take measurements and possibly send back for a remake (total process time perhaps 2 months) consider Indochino. There are many opinions and reviews out there but if you check out Joe's pictures of his own Ultimate Gray Suit (see below) on the main Dappered site you can get a good idea of how well one can look.


There are coupon codes out there occasionally that'll get you free shirts and accessories if you time it right. I love my three piece suit from Indochino. It's my only suit and I love it and get lots of praise from everyone when I wear it. Just be aware that I had to have 2 remakes and some final tailoring in the end. However, with the $75 tailoring credit even after a remake it still only costs as advertised. In the end you will have a suit with a perfect fit as long as you keep at it.


http://dappered.com/2010/11/the-indo...ultimate-gray/

[BKA]

Also see this Style Forum thread for lots of opinions/pictures on/about the benefits and pitfalls of online tailoring through Indochino.


http://www.styleforum.net/forum/thre...ino-suits/1935

[mikesam82]

While I like the Indochino idea, I would not use this for your first suit. Go to a store and a tailor, do it the right way.

[BKA]

@Mikesam82, I do see your point, for a first suit getting it right with Indochino means knowing all the ins and outs of fit and finish otherwise you can end up with an ill-fitting mess. What you said about the tailor is so true.


For an off the rack suit expect to spend almost as much on the tailoring as the suit and you'll look like a million bucks.

[MagM]

Hmmm, I bought the Tommy Hilfiger. I called up a tailor and we agreed upon a rough price for the work done (~$70 for slimming the legs down, fixing the fold around the collar, and slimming down around the chest). I couldn't make it back to the store though, so I ordered it online and am waiting for it (I wanted the one-day sale price). Anything else I should have the tailor look at? I think I'll need a bit of attention around the crotch and if the sleeve length isn't right that'll need fixing...

[MaxMan]

I find when a tailor slims the legs they forget to taper it as well...make sure the taper on your slacks are well built...

[BKA]

If it's double-vented and you are taking in the waist/chest/upper back makes sure your tailor knows to take in the side seams and not the center seam. Also, if you take in much material in the upper back, it can end up causing side vents to open up and give the bottom of the coat a flared look. This can be remedied by simply closing up the top inch or so of the side vents. If you purchased a ventless or single vented suit coat, however, no need to worry about such things.


What do you mean by "fixing the fold around the collar"?

[MagM]

This is what I wound up buying:


http://www1.macys.com/catalog/product/index.ognc?ID=405037&CategoryID=43088#fn=sp%3D1%26 spc%3D23


It is double vented so I'll make sure to look at that after tailoring.


And in the back view photo, you can see a bit of folding up under the collar. When I've tried on jackets in store, even if they fit in the shoulders there's often a bit of bunching at the top of my back. I'm not sure what the cause is, but I notice it with other people wearing suits and want to avoid walking around with that.

[dahonam]

@MagM, that bunching at the top of the suit can be fixed by your tailor. I had the same bunching on my tux and my tailor was able to fix it.

[MaxMan]

Thats a very nice suit MagM, I want to see a pic of the finished product, and BKA is spot on with the tailor suggestion...

[mikesam82]

Nice work, thats a handsome suit at a great price.


BKA, you sound well-versed in the physical construction of the suit. Mentioned some points that I'd not been aware of, thank you.

[BKA]

My pleasure, Mikesam82! The credit goes to my tailor, Rigo, he's real good people. Everytime he does anything to a jacket he first opens up the lining when I drop it off for a fitting and shows me what he is going to do and why, explaining how the construction affects the fit and drape...I've learned a lot from him along the way. Even after so many decades in the business he still gets excited when he explains exactly how he hand-stitches this or reconstructs that.