Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Suit brands recommendation for broad shoulders and narrow hips (UK)?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Suit brands recommendation for broad shoulders and narrow hips (UK)?

    Hi folks, I have just spent a disappointing day trying out various suit options in many shops hoping for an off the rack fit that would lend itself to a good fit with a few minor alterations. I walked away disappointed from most.

    The main problems were that slim fit suits were too tight in the shoulders causing dodgy shoulder wrinkles, and regular were far too wide in the hips creating a skirt type effect.

    I’m approx 43 chest and 32 waist by tape measure, 5”10, 170lbs. I.e. fairly slim apart from my upper torso. In most brands the 40 fitted me much better than the 42.

    Funnily enough to me the one that fitted best was the last one I expected - M&S tailored fit (I think they call it Collezione). Their slim and regular didn’t work at all.

    I’m specifically after a tux for an upcoming cruise which will have 4 formal nights. I have an old one, but it’s from my younger weightlifting days and the fit isn’t good .

    Suit supply and banana republic are frequently recommended brands on this site that we can get in the UK, are they worth a try?

    I don’t want to spend too much as the suit won’t get used very often.

    #2
    Unless you’re willing to spend a decent amount, Suitsupply probably wouldn’t work for your needs. To my knowledge they only offer suit separates on their more expensive lines. Considering your chest to waist size ratio, you’ll most likely need to purchase separates as the traditional 6 inch drop won’t work for you.

    Also, it sounds like you are specifically after a tux and not a suit. If your only planning to wear it for a few nights on a cruise you might be better off just renting one from a site like theblacktux.com. Although I don’t know what their UK presence is like.

    Comment


      #3
      I've got a similar drop -- 5'10", 37-38-inch chest to 28-29 waist -- and find the best way to get a decent fit is to have a good tailor and find a cut described as athletic or modern rather than slim. Slim fits seem to assume a lack of fat and muscle, so everything gets smaller circumferentially for the same shoulder breadth. Athletic/modern/tailored fits will accommodate a fuller chest relative to the shoulders.

      That said, Suit Supply's Lazio worked well as a starting point for me, and is offered as a tuxedo. A good tailor can usually find about an inch to let out at the chest and can suppress the jacket waist almost two inches.

      Something I found which helps in researching is to know your target shoulder breadth, taken from s suit which fits well around the shoulders. Most brands list either the distance between the two shoulder seams or between the underarms where the arm seams meet the side seams. Use those, rather than the chest circumference used to label a suit, to figure it which size will fit your shoulders, then see if that size is close enough for your chest and shoulders. Makes it easier to compare fits across different brands, especially since it's impractical to tailor shoulders.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks. I agree I’ll likely have to go suit separates. On the plus side they seem to be more common here on the cheaper brands than the more expensive ones. Most of the major high street brands sell separates as do the likes of Charles Tyrwhitt. The latter’s the one I’m thinking of trying next. I’ll have to go mail order but thankfully they have free delivery and returns so I can try a few sizes.

        W.r.t. hiring, worst case I’d probably buy an ex rental and get it altered a bit rather than hire one. I’ve never tried this, but I know it’s an option.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Galcobar View Post
          I've got a similar drop -- 5'10", 37-38-inch chest to 28-29 waist -- and find the best way to get a decent fit is to have a good tailor and find a cut described as athletic or modern rather than slim. Slim fits seem to assume a lack of fat and muscle, so everything gets smaller circumferentially for the same shoulder breadth. Athletic/modern/tailored fits will accommodate a fuller chest relative to the shoulders.

          That said, Suit Supply's Lazio worked well as a starting point for me, and is offered as a tuxedo. A good tailor can usually find about an inch to let out at the chest and can suppress the jacket waist almost two inches.

          Something I found which helps in researching is to know your target shoulder breadth, taken from s suit which fits well around the shoulders. Most brands list either the distance between the two shoulder seams or between the underarms where the arm seams meet the side seams. Use those, rather than the chest circumference used to label a suit, to figure it which size will fit your shoulders, then see if that size is close enough for your chest and shoulders. Makes it easier to compare fits across different brands, especially since it's impractical to tailor shoulders.
          Thanks, that description of slim fit is a very apt description of the problem. I’ve jackets that do fit well so I’ll take some measurements and compare to sites that offer a comparison. I’ve had some luck on eBay doing this in the past, but also some disasters. Mainly due to things that can’t be determined like armhole size and where the waist buttoning point is.

          Comment

          Working...
          X