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Waist Size Change and Tailoring Overcoats/Blazers

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    Waist Size Change and Tailoring Overcoats/Blazers

    I lift weights and am currently in the process of reducing my waist size about 4-5 inches (40 -> 35/36). Things are going well (down about 2.5 inches). My chest has stayed about the same (~44/45) and I hope it generally stays close to the same. My goal is to have a 10in chest/waist drop.

    What am I to do with my sport coats and overcoats after having reduced my waist by a decent amount? They already seem kind of big in the waist, but still fit well in the chest/shoulders. Can you bring in the waist on blazers and overcoats by a decent amount? I know a lot of guys have a pretty big chest/waist drop size and are able to find stuff.

    I would rather not have to buy new stuff as I've accumulated some nice Todd Snyder blazers and Spier and Mackay overcoats over the last couple of years. Cheaper things like shirts—I don't mind buying new ones. As to a suit, I don't have a decent one anyways, so I'll wait till I reach my goals before looking into a new one.

    Anyone else have experience with this?

    #2
    Unfortunately the answer is "it depends." How a piece is cut and where the seams lie, as well as the skill of your tailor and your willingness to pay will all affect how well such a drastic reduction works.

    In Spier & Mackay, I buy a 36R Contemporary, have the chest taken out and the waist suppressed to fit my 8-9-inch drop (37-38 to 28-29), so I have some familiarity with the matter.

    The biggest issue is that when changing the chest-waist ratio the seams have to be reshaped rather than just taken in. Across the back the three seams are relatively adjustable and can usually manage a combined three inches. The front side seams which shape the waist are typically interrupted by the pockets (less often for slash or handwarmer pockets). That makes them difficult -- read expensive -- to alter. The remaining front darts can accept moderate adjustments at best before misshaping the jacket.

    That said, as one's drop gets more extreme it's often necessary to accept a relatively looser waist. It accommodates movement, as well as avoiding the feminine hourglass shape when the jacket or coat flares over the legs and backside.

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      #3
      My tailor has to work my coats pretty significantly but it's worth it to me. I buy 40R and have a 30" waist so when they're OTR, they're not even close. He'll often pull the shoulders in just a smidge, too. I'm even having him do this with a wool overcoat right now. Go to the tailor with one to see if he can get the right results before buying anything new.

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        #4
        Another thing you could consider is selling your current coats and harder/more expensive items to tailor and buy another brand used or on sale that suits your new body type.


        I did this a few years ago and a lot of the items I have now are nicer and better fitting than had I gone the tailoring route.

        Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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          #5
          Honestly, you're going to need different fits. It'll be difficult for a tailor to properly achieve that.

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            #6
            Thanks for all the advice. We'll see what happens. I'll probably end up listing a lot of stuff on here!

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