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Just got a MTM DB blazer, unhappy with button stance. Am I crazy?

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    Just got a MTM DB blazer, unhappy with button stance. Am I crazy?

    I just spent (to me) a good deal of money on a MTM double breasted suit. Goal was to get a casual blazer with a pair of matching trousers, so I could wear the blazer as a blazer, OR as a suit when needed.

    I'm super happy with the actual suit; the quality and fabric is fantastic. I picked a VBC wool in the perfect shade of blue. This was from Enzo in Washington DC.

    During the measuring process I mentioned I didn't want a high lapel, and prefer a low button stance as I felt it keeps things more casual. I'm 5'7" so I minimize trouser break and try to keep my lapels as low-slung as possible to lengthen me out a bit. I'm not happy with the final product. It looks fine as a suit but I really think the buttons are too high for my liking.

    Current blazer stance: https://i.imgur.com/bpfmWaH.jpg Preferred stance, maybe just a hair higher: https://i.imgur.com/1e0Ld7t.jpg (using a picture like this as a reference https://i.imgur.com/xsdNLJy.jpg)

    Is this even fixable or am I going to be liable for an entirely new jacket? Has anyone pushed back on a MTM company on this? I picked it up yesterday and didn't decide I was unhappy until wearing it around today. They are closed until tomorrow so I'm kind of hanging out until I hear back.

    What is a fair 'ask' here? The jacket was delivered functional and fits fine. I really bought this as a custom blazer that I'd occasionally wear as a suit. With the current stance I will wind up having to wear it occasionally as a suit, and never as a blazer. Not what I want. To reiterate the actual quality is impeccable and I was thrilled with the service up to the point of the final product.

    I'm just frustrated that the sticking point I indicated, a low button stance, wasn't really taken in to account and frankly I'm mad at myself for not being more adamant here.

    #2
    I'm 5'6" and I hear ya on the button stance, but honestly, that actually looks really good on you as is, especially since I feel like DB is more formal. SB then definitely lower button stance, but yours looks pretty dang good.

    Also, that middle button appears to be hitting at the narrowest part of your torso so it's at a good spot. The picture of the guy with lower stance is also taller, apparently, because his middle button is also about proportionally in the same spot as yours.

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      #3
      Thanks; am I over-analyzing? I mean I'm really talking like a degree of an inch or so, but I feel like with it fully buttoned I'm getting all tie and not much shirt, which again just kind of (as a shorter guy) makes the jacket kind of choke me a bit.

      I've never owned anything DB before so I'm learning as I go.. don't disagree in that it does look good, I just think it could look better and this thing was expensive. Like that's the point of MTM right?

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        #4
        You're certainly allowed to want what you want, but perhaps this explains why I see so many complaints about MTM suits...

        To me, it's a difference without a distinction.

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          #5
          A few thoughts:
          1. I think the jacket looks good in general and it took me flipping back and forth a few times to determine the difference you were indicating.
          2. In general DB I thought was a more formal look, so unsure making that the fraction of changes you indicate given that appearance.
          3. In the reference picture, I believe posture helps contribute to making the lapels look lower.
          4. Overall the goal is to meet the customer's expectations while understanding that some things cannot be done which is why you trust the company. Given the price, and if you agree it doesn't fit your needs, I would contact them again. I would start the conversation friendly. State the items you do like, where your concerns are and how can they fit your original request. If they push back and you determine that is unreasonable then you can ramp up in explaining why it doesn't fit your needs more directly based on what you requested.

          Best of luck

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            #6
            I agree that the buttons look high.

            And I believe that if they are measuring and fitting you, that means they are taking a part of the risk of whether the fit pleases you.

            That said, I've learned that sometimes you need to take the tailor's word about what is going to look good on YOU, given your body type, etc., as opposed to what you think looks good on a model. On the other hand, I've had some tailors who just don't seem to care or who never get it right no matter how many chances you give them.

            Bottom line is that I would go back with the jacket and express your concerns--politely of course--and see what type of reaction you get.

            I believe that a good MTM seller will want your future business and do what he or she can to fix the problem.

            One more thing: If you have something already and you like that fit, bring that along as well so you can show them what you like.
            WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

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              #7
              It looks good on you as is to be honest.

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                #8
                Overall not a bad look, it would probably look a bit better if the button stance was dropped 1-2 cm. It would lengthen the lapel, and elongate the way it looked on your body.

                Personally I would have preferred a lower gorge height as well.

                When I go to measure up clients for custom suiting, I typically keep it so that the gorge flows with the persons body.

                Keep in mind though, some companies do not have the capabilities to make changes to small details like that, as it is a lot of work to have different patterns and styles ready.

                There is not much you can do on this particular suit, but definitely ask for next time, or find a company that offers a better style.

                Best Regards

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                  #9
                  That's a really tough one. I hope in the end you can what you want and what you'll actually reach for time and again. The last thing you want is for this beautifully crafted suit to hang in your closet un-worn.

                  If I may echo some of the other guys though, I think the jacket looks awesome on you. I've been debating a DB suit for awhile now and haven't been able to bring myself to pull the trigger, because I wasn't sure I could pull it off. Seeing your picture makes me think real people, in real life in this day and age, can wear a DB jacket and pull it off.

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                    #10
                    I like the higher stance on this. Because it's DB, which is already elevated formality, lowering it doesn't change that very much. And it still works with the jeans. The lower stance is boxier and less dynamic since the focal point basically chops the blazer in half. (Think of the rule of thirds... placing the focal point of a photo in the center usually makes it boring.) Google image search for 'double breasted blazer jeans' and you'll see lots of high stance DBs that look great with jeans.

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                      #11
                      The stance is a little high. Great jacket and ironically I really liked the buttons. This must look great as a suit as I only wear suits(I don't do the blazer/slacks thing). What I would do is go back and tell them in a nice way what you liked and disliked about the jacket. After you express you're displeasure with the button stance, either they will make it right, maybe give you a discount or you now know you will never have a MTM suit made there. I will say it's not terrible though. I would still wear it and let that feeling that most of us have had on the board...this jacket was custom made for ME.

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                        #12
                        Another random note: since this happens to look great on you, complain, but perhaps aim for a discount on another item and not for this to be redone. I just couldn't imagine getting rid of a garment that fit so perfectly. Since they nailed fit on this one, I bet they could on another item - just be damn sure to discuss what button stance you want first.

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                          #13
                          When I ordered my very first MTM suit, I was all about modern style. They made me one with classic style. Upset, but I gave it a shot because it was still the best fitting jacket I've ever worn. In the end, I just made the upper sleeve a tad slimmer. And today I prefer classic than modern style.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Hebrew Barrister View Post
                            Another random note: since this happens to look great on you, complain, but perhaps aim for a discount on another item and not for this to be redone. I just couldn't imagine getting rid of a garment that fit so perfectly. Since they nailed fit on this one, I bet they could on another item - just be damn sure to discuss what button stance you want first.
                            we agreed on a small discount and i've come to love the suit. wanted to post an update for everyone. wore the jacket with jeans and an oxford in the airport on a biz trip and random guys were complimenting me in the AA lounge. likewise the suit went over well at a wedding. i wanted something i could rock unbuttoned as a nontraditional look and it really excels.

                            i'll be applying the discount on a 3/2 roll suit in the same color vbc fabric. want to do a slim, pleated pant with a cuff so i can mix the look up... i figure having two different, but matching sets of jackets and trousers will give me a ton of versatility.


                            anyway thanks for the kind words, all.

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                              #15
                              Thanks for the update. I am always interested in how these stories resolve.
                              WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

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