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What heights should use Short/Regular/Long sizes?

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  • What heights should use Short/Regular/Long sizes?

    I'm 5'-6" and have used 36S since getting into fashion. But Suitsupply just added onto their website that short is for people less than 5-5 and 5-5 or taller should use regular sizes. is that accurate? i've liked the way the S looked on me. It hits me most of the way down the fly and butt (maybe a peak of each). Have I been buying the wrong size all along?
    Last edited by Scofield; May 15, 2018, 08:33 AM.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Scofield View Post
    I'm 5'-6" and have used 36S since getting into fashion. But Suitsupply just added onto their website that short is for people less than 5-5 and 5-5 or taller should use regular sizes. is that accurate? i've liked the way the S looked on me. It hits me most of the way down the fly and butt (maybe a peak of each). Have I been buying the wrong size all along?
    It depends on your proportions. I have a longer torso and arms and am 6'1" so I buy long sizes in SuitSupply. Similarly, you could have longer legs, shorter torso and take a regular. Go with how it fits you and not their recommendation. A peak of each should be fine.

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    • #3
      It really depends on brand and body type. I know a guy who is 5'6 or 7, and according to many brands, his height would indicate that he would be wearing short, but because he has long torso, he wears regular length.

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      • #4
        I'm skeptical that guidance is correct. I have a Napoli suit from SS that is a 38 short, and I'm 5'8". I was fitted in the store. SuitSupply is a Dutch company and people in the Netherlands are some of the tallest people on earth, on average. One would think that would skew things in the taller rather than shorter direction for their sizing, but who knows? I'm guessing something may have gone wrong with the metric to feet-inches conversion. My Napoli is probably close to a half decade old so it's possible they've changed things and what they're saying in their guidance is now correct, but as of roughly 2012 a short fit my 5'8" frame. The body length was perfect for me - the sleeves did have to be tailored to add just smidge of length though - their sleeves run the shortest I've ever seen from an off the rack company.

        J Crew's size guidance recommends their short sizes for guys 5'7" - 5'10"...I'm a short in their jackets but would probably go with a regular if I were any taller than I am.
        “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” – Mark Twain

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        • #5
          When I went to SuSu in Georgetown they put me in a 40s. I’m 5’11.

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          • #6
            Whether a jacket fits you depends on where it falls on your body, not on what number or letter is inside on the label. I prefer a jacket that properly covers one's back side and don't really like the cropped look of the last 5 or so years. But perhaps we're moving back a little longer which is why the guidance on S, R, and L, seems to be changing? I wouldn't trust JCrew or Suit Supply not to change the "proper" fit based on changing fashions.

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            • #7
              If you find a really good tailor, he or she can tell you if a particular length is right. Absent that, go with what you like on you.
              WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by hockeysc23 View Post
                When I went to SuSu in Georgetown they put me in a 40s. I’m 5’11.
                This seems like nonsense, but if you like it and it looks good, why not?
                WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by mebejoseph View Post
                  This seems like nonsense, but if you like it and it looks good, why not?
                  Well I was new to buying nicer suits so I went with their opinion. Sleeves are a little on the shorter side than maybe I’d prefer but wife thought it looked nice. I now do s&m 40r and they don’t need tailoring at all.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by hockeysc23 View Post
                    Well I was new to buying nicer suits so I went with their opinion. Sleeves are a little on the shorter side than maybe I’d prefer but wife thought it looked nice. I now do s&m 40r and they don’t need tailoring at all.
                    Funny you should mention the wife. My wife convinced me late last year that I was totally out of step and wearing all my jacket sleeves too long, and all my suits too boxy and loose.

                    She was right, but it sent me on a buying binge that just is slowing down now--three new sports coats, four or five new suits, four or five new dress slacks, and a new tux, plus taking a bunch of my stuff to the tailors to modify.
                    WHY ARE THE GUYS IN SUITS HERE? HAS SOMETHING GONE WRONG?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by aps2012 View Post
                      Whether a jacket fits you depends on where it falls on your body, not on what number or letter is inside on the label. I prefer a jacket that properly covers one's back side and don't really like the cropped look of the last 5 or so years. But perhaps we're moving back a little longer which is why the guidance on S, R, and L, seems to be changing? I wouldn't trust JCrew or Suit Supply not to change the "proper" fit based on changing fashions.
                      This is true, but generally speaking if your proportions are anywhere near average, knowing your height should get you pretty close to determining whether you are a short, regular, or long. The guidelines are it should just cover your backside - basically ending at the crease where your buttocks meet the upper thigh. For most guys, that is where the first knuckle of the thumb falls (the one closest to the tip of the thumb) so that is an alternate guide. I think this standard still applies whether things trend more boxy/full cut or tailored. Look at Humphrey Bogart - that was a full cut era but the rule still applies if you look at photos of him in a suit. I've had good luck with getting the right length from J Crew following their size guidance and have been buying jackets from them for over a half decade. The Ludlow fit is very tailored but not shortened beyond the norm. Some retailers did indeed go shorter though.
                      “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” – Mark Twain

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by aps2012 View Post
                        Whether a jacket fits you depends on where it falls on your body, not on what number or letter is inside on the label.
                        This says it all. It will vary based on cut, designer, and body proportion (not just height). The right size is the one that fits and looks the best. Internet guidelines are great, but this is why there’s no substitute for actually trying something on and seeing how it looks.

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                        • #13
                          I am 5'7" and generally wear Short, but have had a professor mention I should wear a Regular (business class, dressed up to give presentation). I think it depends on the brand as well. Also I have a bit of a butt, so the extra fabric of a regular could help cover fully. Just bought a 41R in the JCrew Unsuit, since the 40S is a little too tight in Ludlow cut and they sold out of 42S, so I shall see how it fits.

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                          • #14
                            I’m 5’8” and wear a 38 Short from SuitSupply.


                            Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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                            • #15
                              Height really isn't that good a predictor. Build and brand are more important, which is to say there're no hard cutoff points.

                              Narrower chest fits are usually shorter, so a skinny short fellow might need a regular while someone of wider build could go short.

                              At 5'10" I'm supposedly on the boundary for a lot of brands between regular and long. I'm a 36 chest in most brands, but my long waist makes my arms relatively short. All require the chest/back to be let out (I measure about 37"), and the waist suppressed (28"). However, in J. Crew, JCF, and Suit Supply Lazio I'm a short, Spier & Mackay a contemporary regular but I get the sleeves shortened (S&M shorts are too short, and really tight around the armhole). Lazio I should probably be a regular but with working sleeve buttons I'll take accurate sleeves and a shorter body, especially as my posterior isn't particularly prominent and I can get away with a little more pants showing. Banana Republic trim fit I get a short, and still need to shorten the sleeves.

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