Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What heights should use Short/Regular/Long sizes?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    I'm 5'9" and wear 40S most times, although I have been able to pull off a regular on certain makes. I've always used the ROT that if you hold your arms by your side and can curl your fingers under the bottom of the jacket hem, that's the appropriate length.

    The guidelines that SuSu and others post on their sites are just that - guidelines - and are likely put there to aid those who are perhaps first time or infrequent buyers. I'd always go with experience over general guidelines. If a short works for you, then go with that.

    Comment


    • #17
      Is this an appropriate length or too short? https://imgur.com/a/VSy2WQX

      I may try to go up to an R in my next sportcoat...
      Last edited by Scofield; June 9, 2018, 12:43 PM.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Scofield View Post
        Is this an appropriate length or too short? https://imgur.com/a/VSy2WQX

        I may try to go up to an R in my next sportcoat...
        A little short I think, especially given it's a more formal colour. The hand in the pocket means I can't see where it falls against your arm, and the visible belt buckle could be due to the rumpled side.

        That said, the belt buckle and tie end are visible, and that's usually a good indication the jacket is too short for the button stance (and it looks like the buttons are about as low as they could be).

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Galcobar View Post
          A little short I think, especially given it's a more formal colour. The hand in the pocket means I can't see where it falls against your arm, and the visible belt buckle could be due to the rumpled side.

          That said, the belt buckle and tie end are visible, and that's usually a good indication the jacket is too short for the button stance (and it looks like the buttons are about as low as they could be).
          interesting since i' 5-6 with short legs, arms and torso so never thought of myself as an R. i'll try buying an R in my next spier and mackay sportcoat and see how that goes. it's not so short it looks weird/i should get rid of it right lol

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Scofield View Post
            interesting since i' 5-6 with short legs, arms and torso so never thought of myself as an R. i'll try buying an R in my next spier and mackay sportcoat and see how that goes. it's not so short it looks weird/i should get rid of it right lol
            Not at all. If the front covers your belt when your hand isn't in your pocket, I might stick with that cut. Judging by your shirt cuffs the arm length seems spot-on, so if you go to a regular you'll probably need to shorten the sleeves.

            If you've got short arms, legs and total, wouldn't that mean your proportions are typical? My inseam and arms are just a little short for my height -- or more accurately, I have a long waist for my build. To get the button stance right I have to go with a Contemporary regular and shorten the sleeves.

            S&M have pretty comprehensive size details listed on their website, maybe check those to see if going to a regular will have the desired effect, and if it will throw any other dimensions off.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Galcobar View Post
              Not at all. If the front covers your belt when your hand isn't in your pocket, I might stick with that cut. Judging by your shirt cuffs the arm length seems spot-on, so if you go to a regular you'll probably need to shorten the sleeves.

              If you've got short arms, legs and total, wouldn't that mean your proportions are typical? My inseam and arms are just a little short for my height -- or more accurately, I have a long waist for my build. To get the button stance right I have to go with a Contemporary regular and shorten the sleeves.

              S&M have pretty comprehensive size details listed on their website, maybe check those to see if going to a regular will have the desired effect, and if it will throw any other dimensions off.
              This is actually a heavily tailored suitsupply i've had for a few years. i may just order the R to see how it looks. Unfortunately even on an S i have to have the sleeves tailored (usually). Thanks

              Comment


              • #22
                http://imgur.com/a/z3h1Q7x

                the 2nd pic is a 36s SS heavily tailored with my arms at the side

                the first pic is a spier and mackay 36R completely untailored (obviously the sleeves will need to be taken way up). Is the 1st pic too long and I should stick to a 36S or is it the appropriate length?

                Comment


                • #23
                  Maybe I am getting old-man-ish, but I prefer the S&M, 1st pic. I did a rough measurement, based on your pictures, and it looks like the Spier and Mackay is halfway between the collar and the floor. The SS appears chopped and a rough measurement confirms that it is less than halfway.

                  This is only my humble opinion. I am no expert. I just read a bunch of stuff on a bunch of websites. (And stayed at a holiday inn last night)

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Loafer28 View Post
                    Maybe I am getting old-man-ish, but I prefer the S&M, 1st pic. I did a rough measurement, based on your pictures, and it looks like the Spier and Mackay is halfway between the collar and the floor. The SS appears chopped and a rough measurement confirms that it is less than halfway.

                    This is only my humble opinion. I am no expert. I just read a bunch of stuff on a bunch of websites. (And stayed at a holiday inn last night)
                    Agree with this. Post tailoring, the longer jacket will look better, imo. They are both in the acceptable range, but the SuSu is at least an inch short of ideal in the body where the Spier is about a half inch long on you. I think once the sleeves are done and any waist suppression happens that the Spier will look far better.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Scofield View Post
                      http://imgur.com/a/z3h1Q7x

                      the 2nd pic is a 36s SS heavily tailored with my arms at the side

                      the first pic is a spier and mackay 36R completely untailored (obviously the sleeves will need to be taken way up). Is the 1st pic too long and I should stick to a 36S or is it the appropriate length?
                      Convenient that the SuSu body is the same length as the S&M sleeves; makes for easy comparison.

                      I read a story just a couple of days ago that women prefer men with slightly long legs relative to their body. A jacket that's too long cuts you off in the middle and shortens your legs.

                      I think the S&M is too long; it falls past your crotch. It's not terrible, and if it were a full suit you could get away with it. The contrast between separates emphasizes the jacket length, and given your size the last thing you want is to look like your clothes are too big for you. With the price tag in the way it's hard to tell if the button stance and opening works relative to where your pantwaist lies.

                      For reference, I wear a 36 Regular Contemporary and I'm 5'10"

                      Judging by the shape of the SuSu opening, did you have the body shortened? Normally I'd say it's too short, but again, by emphasizing the legs, which in turn creates a longer line for the eye to follow, you benefit from an illusion of height.

                      Of the two, given your build, I would go with the SuSu. However, an S&M Short is only 1.3 inches shorter than the Regular, and it looks like there's about two inches difference in the pictures.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Galcobar View Post
                        Convenient that the SuSu body is the same length as the S&M sleeves; makes for easy comparison.

                        I read a story just a couple of days ago that women prefer men with slightly long legs relative to their body. A jacket that's too long cuts you off in the middle and shortens your legs.

                        I think the S&M is too long; it falls past your crotch. It's not terrible, and if it were a full suit you could get away with it. The contrast between separates emphasizes the jacket length, and given your size the last thing you want is to look like your clothes are too big for you. With the price tag in the way it's hard to tell if the button stance and opening works relative to where your pantwaist lies.

                        For reference, I wear a 36 Regular Contemporary and I'm 5'10"

                        Judging by the shape of the SuSu opening, did you have the body shortened? Normally I'd say it's too short, but again, by emphasizing the legs, which in turn creates a longer line for the eye to follow, you benefit from an illusion of height.

                        Of the two, given your build, I would go with the SuSu. However, an S&M Short is only 1.3 inches shorter than the Regular, and it looks like there's about two inches difference in the pictures.
                        The SS has not been altered in any way. May be a trick of the pants? I'll try to upload pics this wknd when i have the chance of the jackets with the same pants to make things easier. I'll also throw in a couple other jackets for comparison.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Length-wise I like the jacket on the first picture. I would wear the second jacket unbuttoned only. As far as the effect to your legs, the front side is fine on the first jacket. Yes, your legs will look short from behind, but I prioritize the front. Some girls tuck in their top in the front only, so I guess they and I think the same way.

                          Regarding classic vs modern length, if you've been wearing modern length, classic length will most likely always look wrong. And of course there's notion that classic length is for old people (read: old fashioned, aka, not relevant today). You have to wear classic length for a month or something to judge fairly.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Scofield View Post
                            The SS has not been altered in any way. May be a trick of the pants?
                            It's the shape off the SuSu opening that made me wonder; rather than a long curve it ends in a fairly tight corner to transition to a straight horizontal line. That interruption of the eye line contributes to the impression it's short. By itself it might have gone unremarked, but it stood out against the S&M.

                            The thing about length is that the ideal is not only an individual matter, it's also affected by the rest of the cut. A shorter than average person benefits from a shorter than classic length, but that must be adjusted for one's relative torso and leg proportions. A shorter person also usually benefits from a higher button stance (visually moving the waist higher to lengthen the legs), but if the jacket's not properly cut this will produce an opening over the belly.

                            And of course, we're offering advice based on still self- portraits. Shooting slightly downwards, a mirror angled slightly upwards, and a wide-angle camera lens a few millimetres long all distort appearances (especially height/length). Put you next to a six-footer also in a suit, taken from a distance, and the improved context changes the analysis.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Galcobar View Post
                              Put you next to a six-footer also in a suit, taken from a distance, and the improved context changes the analysis.
                              Unfortunately i don't have one of those laying around

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X