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    Cuffs?

    Gentlemen,

    I recently picked up a pair of Epaulet trousers in what they call Airforce blue. They are wool - great spring/summer pant. Slim leg. Thinking about hemming them with a cuff. I'm thinking 2" is the way to go. I rolled the leg and 1 1/2" just doesn't seem to cut it.

    Anyone have a strong opinion on this?

    Sam
    instagram.com/cutandbasted
    cutandbasted.tumblr.com

    #2
    I always do 1.75 inch cuff.

    Comment


      #3
      The taller and skinnier the man, the bigger the cuff you can get away with. Anyone over a 38W should consider forgoing a cuff altogether.

      Comment


        #4
        I'm 6'2", wear a size 32 trousers and usually go for a cuff somewhere in the 1.75" - 2" range myself.

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          #5
          Ok. All good replies. I'm 5'8 1/2" (DON'T FORGET THE EXTRA 1/2"!!!) and have a 34" waist. Looking at the pants I was thinking about a big, bold 2" cuff simply due to the style of the pants and the nature of the fabric. But I get the feeling I should be thinking about a smaller cuff or no cuff? Hmm.
          instagram.com/cutandbasted
          cutandbasted.tumblr.com

          Comment


            #6
            2" cuff is awesome.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by sdjackofclubs View Post
              Ok. All good replies. I'm 5'8 1/2" (DON'T FORGET THE EXTRA 1/2"!!!) and have a 34" waist. Looking at the pants I was thinking about a big, bold 2" cuff simply due to the style of the pants and the nature of the fabric. But I get the feeling I should be thinking about a smaller cuff or no cuff? Hmm.
              I am 5’8” and never do cuffs anymore. All of the menswear advice I have read advises against it. The thought process is that the cuff adds a visual break to the clean lines of pants and can make you look shorter. I certainly don’t need help with that! Through personal observance and trial and error, I tend to agree. YMMV

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Loafer28 View Post
                I am 5’8” and never do cuffs anymore. All of the menswear advice I have read advises against it. The thought process is that the cuff adds a visual break to the clean lines of pants and can make you look shorter. I certainly don’t need help with that! Through personal observance and trial and error, I tend to agree. YMMV
                I agree. I do not wish to look shorter. But I also have two additional thoughts:

                1. If I hem them short enough so that there's really no break, it may look ok; maybe even fantastic, and

                2. If I decide I hate the cuff, it's easy to take them back to remove the cuff. Can't do the opposite.
                instagram.com/cutandbasted
                cutandbasted.tumblr.com

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by sdjackofclubs View Post
                  I agree. I do not wish to look shorter. But I also have two additional thoughts:

                  1. If I hem them short enough so that there's really no break, it may look ok; maybe even fantastic, and

                  2. If I decide I hate the cuff, it's easy to take them back to remove the cuff. Can't do the opposite.
                  I believe the thought thought is even with limited to no break when the visual stops at the top of the cuff then you are still taking 1-2" off the entire visual look of the person. As a shorter height person some don't want that look, you want the person to look taller and that is accomplished with nothing to break-up the pants look regardless of break.

                  But if you don't mind the tailoring ... why not just ask your tailor to pin it up and see if you like the look. If it doesn't even pass the tailor mirror then have them do a normal hem etc.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by hockeysc23 View Post
                    I believe the thought thought is even with limited to no break when the visual stops at the top of the cuff then you are still taking 1-2" off the entire visual look of the person. As a shorter height person some don't want that look, you want the person to look taller and that is accomplished with nothing to break-up the pants look regardless of break.

                    But if you don't mind the tailoring ... why not just ask your tailor to pin it up and see if you like the look. If it doesn't even pass the tailor mirror then have them do a normal hem etc.
                    Good points all around.

                    I was going to go today, but we're dealing with a nice little springtime winter storm today here in Western PA, so it will have to wait until Friday or Saturday. I will report in.

                    Thanks for the feedback!

                    Sam
                    instagram.com/cutandbasted
                    cutandbasted.tumblr.com

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you're under, say 5'9 or 5'10ish, I would suggest you REALLY reconsider the idea of a cuff. Also, if your pants is plain front, as in, it doesn't have pleats, cuffs do not serve any practical function either.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The benefit of cuffs is that the give more weight to the leg opening and allow for better drape. Especially with minimal/no break. Better drape works for everyone.

                        The visual issue of cuffs in terms of breaking the flow for not tall people is also true but can sometimes be overcome by higher rise alone, which is actually the first step I would recommend for someone who has somewhat of a vertical challenge.

                        Alternative, if the higher rise is not possible (cost) or not enough, plain cuffs with a thin canvas underlining strip is the way to go.

                        Also this issue about cuffs/no cuffs in terms of visual height is very affected by the break of the pants and leg opening. All these things are interlinked.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          IMO cuffs are out of style and out-dated. I'd go with flat front, no pleats or cuffs, if it was my money.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by mochi123 View Post
                            If you're under, say 5'9 or 5'10ish, I would suggest you REALLY reconsider the idea of a cuff. Also, if your pants is plain front, as in, it doesn't have pleats, cuffs do not serve any practical function either.
                            I'm not sure what practical purpose cuffs serve when trousers have pleats? I'm with doomx in that they add a bit of weight and can improve drape.

                            Originally posted by Shade View Post
                            IMO cuffs are out of style and out-dated. I'd go with flat front, no pleats or cuffs, if it was my money.
                            I think this is the common view, however cuffs IMHO are a classic look. For me cuffs not only serve the practical purpose of improving drape, and also provide an option that can easily be changed (you can't generally change an uncuffed trouser to a cuffed trouser), but for those looking to differenciate themselves it's a simple thing to do. I think the cut of your trousers and the amount of break end up affecting the overall look more than cuffed vs uncuffed. I think it also signals that you bought higher end trousers, since inexpensive, off the rack trousers usually don't have enough material to execute a cuff, especially on those of us over 6' tall.

                            Browsing the blog of The Armoury I couldn't find a single photo where anyone didn't have cuffs. These are among the most stylish guys out there IMHO.

                            http://thearmoury.tumblr.com/post/17...at-the-armoury

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by mochi123 View Post
                              If you're under, say 5'9 or 5'10ish, I would suggest you REALLY reconsider the idea of a cuff. Also, if your pants is plain front, as in, it doesn't have pleats, cuffs do not serve any practical function either.
                              The only practical functions cuffs serve at all today are to add weight and drape to the trousers. Otherwise it is a visual style decision just like whether you prefer tassel loafers or hate them. Pleats have nothing to do with cuffs, they are to provide more fabric when sitting down, making the trousers more comfortable in that position. They also can hide some belly, but IMO unless they are tailored to lay completely flat when standing, they look worse than flat front on a bigger person.

                              Originally they were turned up by hand in wet weather to prevent the bottom of the material from getting soaked. Supposedly King Edward VII had them built into trousers he wore in rainy weather and others followed. They were banned during WWII to save fabric (along with flapped jacket pockets) and came back into style later.

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