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Sizing Help - Suit Jackets/Blazers

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  • Sizing Help - Suit Jackets/Blazers

    After multiple tries of tailoring an off the rack suit jackets, and once a blazer, I've found that it's extremely hard for me to find a jacket brand/size combo that allow the fit I'm assuming I need.

    Whenever I find a jacket that fits my chest, the waist is gigantic and I can't get it brought in enough. The jackets that come closer to my waist, the lapels pop off my chest. I'm guessing I'm a 44R (or L, depending on brand), since I'm 6', 195 with a 43.5" chest, 35" length arms. The problem is the drop. My waist at my belly button is 35".

    Any advice with brands/fits that would work? At least come close? I've been extremely tempted to pull the trigger on the JCF Thompson Unstructured blazer because of the reviews and price but I don't know what the fit will be.

    Thanks,

    QLC

  • #2
    Originally posted by QuarterLifeCrisis View Post
    I'm a 44R (or L, depending on brand), since I'm 6', 195 with a 43.5" chest, 35" length arms. The problem is the drop. My waist at my belly button is 35".
    We have almost exactly the same measurements. Do you wear a size 12D shoe? 16.5 shirt?

    I would just recommend trying a different tailor. I had this problem until I found a place that seems to nail it every time. I even took in a jacket that I had altered at a different place and they fixed that, too.

    My problem is always the "collar gap." I find it difficult to find jackets that fit my shoulders and my neck.

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    • #3
      Yes and yes to both those sizes. The one jacket comes close to what I feel is right, but I’m not sure how tight it should be around the midsection. I also feel like too much of my shirt collar sticks out (more than half), but I’ve done a lot of looking at stock pictures and it seems like it just sometimes lays like that.

      For a jacket that fits both the shoulder and chest well, how far can you pull the jacket away from your belly button? I feel like anything more than 2” is too much, but is that an unrealistic fit for a blazer?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by QuarterLifeCrisis View Post
        For a jacket that fits both the shoulder and chest well, how far can you pull the jacket away from your belly button? I feel like anything more than 2” is too much, but is that an unrealistic fit for a blazer?
        I can pull the top jacket button away about 1". At 2", it would probably be too big.
        P

        Off the rack, almost all the 44US jackets are going to be designed for a 38 waist. It's just how it is. There are also "athletic" cuts designed for a 36 waist.

        Can you wear a 42? I switched from 46 to 44 in most all brands after I exercised less...

        If the jacket really doesn't fit just in the waist, that is not a big deal. The sides can be taken in and the jacket will look great. If the sides feel tight and the jacket doesn't fit, it might be more than the waist size. If it is collar shape, you might not be able to get it to fit.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ianr View Post
          Can you wear a 42? I switched from 46 to 44 in most all brands after I exercised less...

          If the jacket really doesn't fit just in the waist, that is not a big deal. The sides can be taken in and the jacket will look great. If the sides feel tight and the jacket doesn't fit, it might be more than the waist size. If it is collar shape, you might not be able to get it to fit.
          So I've tried on a lot of 42M and 42L jackets of random brands at Macy's, (Calvin Klein, Kenneth Cole, etc) and the lapels all pop. Can you think of any brands that are a roomier cut in the chest?

          (I've also changed how I workout, which moved me from a 45/46 chest to the 43/44).

          The next time I go to the store, I could try on a few different brands/sizes, take a picture, and post it. That would probably take a lot of the guess work out.

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          • #6
            I have considered Bonobos athletic size blazers, but I haven't actually tried one yet. Maybe you could give that a shot. I can't find waist measurement comparisons of their blazers; body length, shoulder, chest, and arm length.

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            • #7
              Based on your username I'll assume you are 25, so I would also just warn against tailoring too tight to the body as your body is going to change. Im 35 and my body is more muscular and thicker than I was at 25, but that 10 years also included several periods of getting chubby and then losing weight after noticing. That's not to say you will ride that same type of roller coaster, but just something to keep in mind.

              Not sure where you live but I'd suggest trying to visit some higher end stores to get fitted. The more opinions and looks you see the better idea of overall sizing you'll have.

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              • #8
                [MENTION=17649]QuarterLifeCrisis[/MENTION] Although I’m smaller than you (I’m between a 36 and 38). I have a fairly pronounced chest and a small waist (I wear a 29).

                So far the closest compromise I’ve found is S&M contemporary fit. A 36s fits me near perfect everywhere except the chest where I experience a minimal amount of the lapels bowing out. I’ve found that sizing up to 38 and swapping to the slim fixes the lapel issues but then leaves me with shoulders that are slightly too large.

                FWIW in regards to Bonobos jackets. I don’t have much experience with the Athletic fit but the Standard is still on the slim side. Judging by the size charts compared to standard the differences between the 2 don’t seem that huge so the Athletic might have the right amount of drop you are looking for.

                Here’s a link to Bonobos size charts, has everything you would need except the waist measurements. Pretty sure one of their ninjas could get that info for you though.
                http://bonobos.desk.com/customer/por...-suit-jackets-

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rawfull View Post
                  [MENTION=17649]QuarterLifeCrisis[/MENTION] Although I’m smaller than you (I’m between a 36 and 38). I have a fairly pronounced chest and a small waist (I wear a 29).

                  So far the closest compromise I’ve found is S&M contemporary fit. A 36s fits me near perfect everywhere except the chest where I experience a minimal amount of the lapels bowing out. I’ve found that sizing up to 38 and swapping to the slim fixes the lapel issues but then leaves me with shoulders that are slightly too large.

                  FWIW in regards to Bonobos jackets. I don’t have much experience with the Athletic fit but the Standard is still on the slim side. Judging by the size charts compared to standard the differences between the 2 don’t seem that huge so the Athletic might have the right amount of drop you are looking for.

                  Here’s a link to Bonobos size charts, has everything you would need except the waist measurements. Pretty sure one of their ninjas could get that info for you though.
                  http://bonobos.desk.com/customer/por...-suit-jackets-
                  If anyone does happen to get the waist measurement comparisons across the three sizes, post them here. The slim at 40L is a little tight on my chest and shoulders and a little loose in the waist, but my tailor makes it fit damn near perfect, and the more casual jackets are close enough to go without tailoring. I'm curious to see if the athletic build may be a better starting point.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Rawfull View Post
                    [MENTION=17649]QuarterLifeCrisis[/MENTION] Although I’m smaller than you (I’m between a 36 and 38). I have a fairly pronounced chest and a small waist (I wear a 29).

                    So far the closest compromise I’ve found is S&M contemporary fit. A 36s fits me near perfect everywhere except the chest where I experience a minimal amount of the lapels bowing out. I’ve found that sizing up to 38 and swapping to the slim fixes the lapel issues but then leaves me with shoulders that are slightly too large.

                    FWIW in regards to Bonobos jackets. I don’t have much experience with the Athletic fit but the Standard is still on the slim side. Judging by the size charts compared to standard the differences between the 2 don’t seem that huge so the Athletic might have the right amount of drop you are looking for.

                    Here’s a link to Bonobos size charts, has everything you would need except the waist measurements. Pretty sure one of their ninjas could get that info for you though.
                    http://bonobos.desk.com/customer/por...-suit-jackets-
                    Good call on going straight to the source, I sent an email to the ninjas. Hopefully I hear back soon.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Kurps View Post
                      Based on your username I'll assume you are 25, so I would also just warn against tailoring too tight to the body as your body is going to change. Im 35 and my body is more muscular and thicker than I was at 25, but that 10 years also included several periods of getting chubby and then losing weight after noticing. That's not to say you will ride that same type of roller coaster, but just something to keep in mind.
                      I had this same conversation with my wife, and she agreed that I should try to find something that fits my body now. I'm definitely unsure of what the future will bring, but I'm definitely going to do my best to not fall off the wagon when it comes to my fitness. If I have a change in body that's substantial enough to update my wardrobe, that's a battle for future me.

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