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Rather broad person

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    Rather broad person



    unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it), i stand 6"0 and a muscular 200 lbs... my thighs are bigger then my head and the word to describe it is 'thick'. Just curious what tailoring techniques i should be asking for in order to minimize that thick feeling. I already have my tailor take in my jackets to the waist...which helps, but i'm not always wearing a blazer...anyone else struggle with this?


    #2


    6'3, 225 currently, so I feel your pain a bit. For slimmer pants, etc. I've just had some brands and cuts that just don't work. Obviously you need a decent amount of room up top in pants, but you may try having your tailor slim down the bottom of the legs, as a lot of brands that are wide enough in the thigh probably don't taper them, such that your entire pant leg is wide.


    Otherwise, I'd just make sure your shirts are fitted as well, which helps in the same way as having your tailor take in jackets.

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      #3


      yeah i find that im nailing everything just the way i want it except for pants, which is unfortunate because it's really the anchor of everything a person wears.... i've found that Express' Producers are a good fit, but i can't say much about their quality, and i already have like 15 ill fitting pants, which i'm trying to figure out exactly what to tell my good friend Tony the tailor that i want fixed

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        #4


        I ended up buying sizes much bigger than my waist in a tailored fit so it didn't look too large, and then had the waist taken in, Tommy H, Lands end etc sell those types of fits. This was one of the reasons I started focusing on dropping weight, and a lot of hard earned muscle, just a pita to get clothes, and I need to dress well for my job.


        My solution when I was 6'0 210; buying 36 waist pants and having them taken to about 34.5.


        Nothing is really designed for body building size type physiques so good luck, you could go the MTM route; indochino makes pants.


        After I dropped to about 185 now, most pants fit well enough leg wise, waist is still a pita but i have an easier time with clothes OTR. Hate being "small" though and everyone commenting on how much size I've lost

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          #5


          I'm right there with you Jake. I've had good experience with the Producers from express...and they are pretty much my "go to" work pants.


          There are a couple of cuts from Dockers that work for me (I'll have to check the tag, to see which cuts they are)...but the slim fit is definitely too much.


          I also got a really cheap pair of Grey Broken-in Slim Fit Khakis from old Navy last week. They are labeled as "Slim Fit"...but not very slim at all. They have just enough taper to trim out the legs at the bottom. They aren't very dressy though, if that's what you're looking for. I would try to get to a store to try them on though. They tend to make their pants very big. If I measure as 34, I usually buy a 32 at Old Navy.

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            #6


            Jake, I'm in the same boat as well. Big muscular guy with weird proportions. I started a thread awhile back about dress shirts. I found that the CT slim cut shirts were perfect as the regular fit has generous British proportions.


            I also love D2 dockers. They essentially become a slim fit on my body.

            Dress for style, live for results.

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              #7


              the CT slim, really? I had to have so much fabric removed from the mid section, that's why I won't order from them again. MTM is cheaper too after their tailoring cost I found.


              Also they won't let me review


              Plus they overcharged me off knowingly, told me I should have ordered from UK site vs US as the "free customs" didn't apply to Canada. So why not refund and recharge me in pounds then or tell me when I'm ordering from the US site. F'ing jack holes is what they are, no wonder they won't let Canadians add to their site, would bring down their rating.

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                #8


                With Express pants, I would steer clear of anything with polyester. I've got their wool pants on the way for a test. Their cotton pants look sharp on the rack but fade in color quickly. Really, any dark cotton pant will fade fast which is why I'm trying their wool.

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                  #9


                  @nicholas , yeah, i'm usually on the lookout for poly blends and stuff like that...besides for being crappy quality, it usually turns on the sweat...


                  and amen to CT shirts, except my proportions are so weird that i just traded in my 5 Slim fits for tailored...

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                    #10


                    I'm sort of in the same boat. I'm 5'9 and a pretty muscular 170lbs. I'm broad in the neck/chest but my waist is 30 or 31. I've yet to find affordable shirts that don't need a ton of tailoring in the waist. I feel like I look pretty normal compared to most guys but I guess a few inches is a large difference as far as fit in the neck and chest are concerned. Brooks Bros slim fit is the closest I have found to fitting me correctly.

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                      #11


                      If you can find shirts that fit in the sleeves and in the neck, then it's pretty easy from there. Just much up and down the different fits until you find what works for you. At Brooks Brothers, they make:

                      -Traditional Fit

                      -Regular Fit

                      -Slim Fit

                      -Extra Slim Fit


                      As mentioned, CT makes:

                      -Classic

                      -Slim

                      -Tailored (extra slim)


                      If the neck and sleeves fit and it's just the body of the shirt giving you problems, you just haven't settled on the right cut of the shirt. Once you find what works, it'll make ordering a breeze.

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