How can I get this suit shape?

[BrownCow]

Yeah I second the H&M vote. I have a friend who is a 36 and he swears by them.

I also recently read on theSilentest (I think) that shorter guys could consider Brooks Bros. young mens/childrens section for nice quality slim blazers. A reader wrote in with the tip and had some success. I'll see if I can dig up the post, it was probably from last month.

[runners n jeans]

^ Thanks for the heads up. The guy over at thisfits.me often refers people to the boys section of Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren for small guys. I actually peruse the boys section of Marshall's these days: "No ladies and gentlemen, I'm not a pedo. I just wear boys clothing."


As far as the waist suppression being too much, that's not totally out of the realm of possibility. I might just be swinging from one extreme of wearing suits too big to going to too tight and still not yet knowing what really fits well on my body.

[Chareth]

rnj,


I've been kind of following all your fit pics but haven't said much until now. I know you may not believe this to be true, but the shoulders on all your suits are too big. On top of that, it looks to me like you need soft shoulders.


Have you tried Brooks Brothers Suiting Essentials? It's an MTM program at a brick and mortar store where you can select the cut and fabric as well as details like pick-stitching, lapel type, vent type, etc. The only drawback might be that the fabric is a wool blend, but my guess is that it's still higher quality than anything that you'd find at Macy's. You can get 2 for $764 (after 15% corp discount, which is easy to get online).


Another option is Suit Supply. They have cuts with soft shoulders and aggressive waist suppression OTR. I had to return a few suits from them because the waist was simply too feminine on me. But if that's what you're looking for, it might work for you. Incidentally, they carry 35 and 36, with free shipping and free returns.

[jessy_diamond]

SuitSupply only carry their size 35-36 in regular length and OP seems to need a Short length.


I think you would be best with MTM, like Indochino, Black Lapel or Brooks Brothers like Chareth said.


Or maybe H&M, they even have a few size 34 if you want to try.

[zerostyle]

SuitSupply has some nice looks & fabrics, but overall I'm not a huge fan for 2 reasons:

1. All of their suits seem to have functional cuffs, which means expensive tailoring of the sleeves for me

2. The roped shoulders are too aggressive for me

[redbeardedmike]

@zerostyle not all Suit Supply suites have roped shoulders. The Napoli does. The Sienna doesn't. Just two examples.


This thread had me questioning if I went for too much waist suppression on two different suit purchases (one custom and one Suit Supply Sienna). I tried on both of the jackets again last night after reading this. It's noticeable, but not excessive (I hope). I will try to post pictures of what the Sienna cut looks like as I've been meaning to get that out there for those who are interested.

[TomasR]

Important tangent: if you want a more modern fitting blazer, your pants need to match that aesthetic. In the pictures above, your slacks have a full break and look straight all the way through. This does not match a modern fitting blazer at all.


I know lots of dudes are hesitant about this, but go for no or little break with the leg tapered down to 15" minimum. That second inspiration picture you posted shows what I'm talking about. The pants are tapered all the way through and the leg opening is probably even less than 15". Make those changes and you'll have a way more cohesive look.

[Chareth]

I didn't find the roping to be too excessive on the Napoli at Suit Supply. But I did find a lot of variation in construction across three Napoli suits, all the same stated size. The shoulder width varied by a full 1.0" measuring the smallest to the largest.


I'll second Brooks Brothers again, even their 1818 suits, budget allowing. Both the Fitzgerald and Regent run small -- or rather, more true to size -- with the Regent being about 1 size smaller and the Fitz about 1.5 sizes smaller, in my experience. I'm a pretty standard 38R in most suits, but I wear a 39 in the Regent and 39 or 40 in the Fitzgerald. My guess would be that a stated 36S in the Regent or Fitz would at least fit like more of a 35S. I imagine the Milano runs even smaller and slimmer.

[runners n jeans]

<blockquote>

shad0w4life: Best bet is to find a tailor that actually makes suits, see their work. I found one by accident looking to have a shirt made, he's so busy they stopped doing the shirts...that's a good sign too. I honestly think that would be your best route, find a actual bespoke tailor that does alterations too.
</blockquote>


@shad0w4life: I actually visited a local tailor that has gotten mention on StyleForum as one of two recommended bespoke tailors in the San Diego area. I took that thrifted blazer to him in my second post, and although I appreciated his knowledge and honesty in not recommending that it was worth the cost of tailoring a full-cut jacket to look like something that it wasn't, he put on me a suit jacket for comparison that was supposed to be more slim and modern cut.


Now though I seem to have apparent difficulties in telling whether a suit's shoulders fit properly, I could tell you that the one on the jacket he put on was too large (and it was a 36S too). He said, "See, this one fits better," and when I pointed to the dimple on the side and said, "What about that? Isn't this a little too large in the shoulders?" he said, "No, that's fine."


And this is from a tailor that makes suits and shirts. So that's why my search for a tailor I can trust is still on-going.

[runners n jeans]

<blockquote>

nicholascrawford: I think the only shortcoming was that the hips/skirt didn't get altered as well. Imagine the side seams being opened and taken in right at the bottom. That would reduce the flare over your butt. It's a nuanced change - not too much or the bottom blazer button will look pulled.</blockquote>


@nicholascrawford: I'm trying to envision what you're describing, but since I have very little knowledge of tailoring, it can't for the life of me get it. But that's okay--at least what you're saying is that there is a fix out there . I did read this thread on StyleForum on taking in the jacket sides and it kind of/sort of made sense: http://www.styleforum.net/t/232774/h...-jackets-sides. I took this coat in to an asian-run alteration place so I only paid $25 for it. I don't think I can describe what you just said and expect them to know what to do.

[runners n jeans]

<blockquote>

Chareth: I've been kind of following all your fit pics but haven't said much until now. I know you may not believe this to be true, but the shoulders on all your suits are too big. On top of that, it looks to me like you need soft shoulders.
</blockquote>


@Chareth: I'll concur with the shoulders being too big on my Men's Wearhouse suit and that the shoulders on the Bar III suit don't seem to be suitable for my build. But if the shoulders on that thrifted blazer are too large, then for the life of me I don't know what proper fit looks like or feels like.


Brooks Brothers MTM is under big consideration actually, specifically the Milano in the 1818 line--you can't get a solid navy Milano suit, let alone one in 36S. My concern, however, is spending a chunk of money--it starts at $1000 and on average can run $1600--and then finding out the shoulders are too big. That will be one sour lemon to have to swallow. I visited a local store and tried on a 36S Fitzgerald that had the same shoulder roll problems seen in those Bar III suit pics that I've posted.


As Jessy & zerostyle mentioned, the lack of a 35 or 36 short and the functional cuffs don't put Suit Supply in the running at the moment.

[runners n jeans]

@TomasR: I hear you man. I really, really hate those Docker D2 pants. They were the first pair of non-jean pants that I bought when I started this wardrobe change not really knowing anything about fit--I just wanted something other than jeans to wear. However, I have yet to find slimmer chinos that fit well on my lower half to replace these and sometimes I just wear them because I spent money on them and I wonder if I could get passed the fact that I think they're hideous.


Those pants have almost an 18" leg opening!


@H&M suit recommenders: I've had my one and only suit for 11 years now and with the wardrobe change that's been going on the past few months, one of my goals has been to buy quality, classic pieces that will last. That's largely why I hadn't really looked at H&M given that the quality of the suit is not likely to last and it may have a trendier modern look that could possibly look dated (I'm referring to narrow lapels and too-short jackets). But I haven't actually tried on an H&M suit before so this is all from what I've read . I don't think my local H&M stocks 34 sizes but I'll see if they can order one. And it may be that I just get something cheap for now until I really know what proper fit really feels and looks like.


Thanks for all the replies and feedback guys. I really do appreciate it. Either I'll end up with a wonderfully fitting suit one of these days, or I'll just give up and try to live in my old style-ignorant days and just continue wearing oversized daddy-suits, hahaha (sigh).

[TomasR]

@runners n jeans

It's not worth the hassle looking for pants that fit your lower half perfectly. Just try on various different slim fit pants and buy the one that fits you best at the waist and through the thigh. The rest can be handled by a tailor rather easily. Just ask for a hem and taper (specify desired leg opening) and you're golden.

[BrownCow]

Yeah, Runners n Jeans, I think I was thinking of the thisfits.me posts. If you're already on that tip though, I'd just second the advice for you to look at H&M some more.


Also, just wondering about how you said you needed an S length - do you think some regular length jackets in a modern trendy cut (shorter crop) could work for you? Maybe they would look like S length jackets?

[jessy_diamond]

runners, do you know how wide your shoulders are ? I'm always looking for smaller sized blazer and suits, I can let you know if I find something that might fits you.


As a reference, the size 34 blazer I got from H&M measured 17" from shoulder to shoulder and the length was similar to a Short length.