How can I get this suit shape?

[runners n jeans]

So in my quest to find a new suit, I came across a boatload of pictures from the J E Harvey-Kelly website (http://jeharveykelly.com/) of their tailored jackets.


Here's one that I particularly like:




So here's my question: What are the chances that I'll find an Off the Rack suit that looks like that? And if the answer to that is "Close to zero," then what kind of OTR suit shape am I looking for that can be tailored to look like that? I'm a 36S (or smaller maybe) so that could be limiting my options in the OTR world.


Would a Brooks Brothers Milano suit be able to look like that?


Or a Ralph Lauren Black Label suit?




In comparing my current suit with an attempt to replace it with a Bar III suit, to my untrained eye, I actually don't see that much of a difference in the shape. What I thought was a slim suit doesn't look all that much slimmer so I'm wondering if even the Bar III suit could be tailored to what I would like it to look like. I'm going to return the Bar III suit, but I'm just curious as to what I should be looking for in terms of the shape of an OTR suit.


Current suit (bleh):




Bar III suit:




The Brooks Brothers sales associate had me try on a Thom Brown designed Black Fleece sack suit and I wasn't having it. If there's anything that I know, it's that I don't want to buy a sack suit.


And from the comments on the "How does it fit?" thread on my current suit, attempting to tailor my suit to look like what I want isn't advisable because of how it's cut. So I'm trying to find out what kind of cut (or suit shape, or suit model) I should be looking for OTR to achieve what I want after tailoring.

[JEH]

@runner - I don't know if this advice is going to be way off for you or not, but I look for this same shape in a suit. In the past, my best suit with this shape was an Express Suit that I bought in college. Recently though, I purchased a tailored fit suit from Banana Republic, and I love it. Feels good quality to me, and I haven't had it tailored.


It also looks like the Bonobos suits are cut very trim as well. Just my two cents.

[jordan]

waist suppression. I have an Express suit and a Bonobos suit that fit very close to that, but not quite as tight.

[tdig]

Theory OTR from "Off 5th". No tailoring done.

[mystix]

Like jordan said, waist suppression.


Is it just me or the shoulders appear to be half to an inch too wide?

[tdig]

On mine mystix? probably. it's a 38 and ideally my shoulders usually call for 37...

[BrownCow]

Yeah, I think part of it may be that you are buying your suits maybe a size too large? My only suit is a BarIII, and while not SUPER TIGHT like the pic you posted (no big X on my chest when I button it) it's definitely slimmer than your self-shot (especially the pants).

[jessy_diamond]

@BrownCow : Yeah but if he's a 36S, sizing down is not exactly easy.

[runners n jeans]

I hear you on the waist suppression.


Here's a thrifted blazer before alteration:




Here it is with the waist taken in at the side seams (pretty much as much as possible):




Granted I lifted up my arms in the second shot to at least see if there was any shape to the blazer.


But then entered in another problem which could have been the result of having the sides taken in too much--my butt magically got bigger (the center vent flares out). The middle and right pictures are both after the same alteration. The difference in bulging between the second and third pictures I can't account for. Could be camera position, clothes, stance. It could look more like the right than the middle for all I know):






This lends to the hesitation I have of taking a suit to a tailor (which I have yet to find or trust) to get that kind of waist suppression and that's why my search is for an OTR suit that has the fit and shape that I want so that I can minimize tailoring as much as possible.


Thanks for the suggestions thus far!

[shad0w4life]

Best bet is to find a tailor that actually makes suits, see their work. I found one by accident looking to have a shirt made, he's so busy they stopped doing the shirts...that's a good sign too. I honestly think that would be your best route, find a actual bespoke tailor that does alterations too.

[nicholascrawford]

runner - I can't see any of the pictures with you in it. I can try from another computer... just FYI.


Edit - working after I refreshed!


The thrifted blazer looks much much better after the waist suppression! I think the only shortcoming was that the hips/skirt didn't get altered as well. Imagine the side seams being opened and taken in right at the bottom. That would reduce the flare over your butt. It's a nuanced change - not too much or the bottom blazer button will look pulled.


I'd consider MTM pretty seriously for a wool suit and H&M for a cheap cotton suit.

[hornsup84]

I have to say, if you want the waist suppression shown above, I don't think there's much you can do with avoid it looking like your butt is sticking out. Same goes for OTR suits that fit similarly.


Personally, I try to watch out so that suppression isn't taken too far. When it is done, I feel like it gives a pretty feminine look which I'm not a fan of.

[nicholascrawford]

Like horns said, you may need the waist suppression backed off a bit so the hips can be brought in without pulling at the bottom button too much.

[jessy_diamond]

It depends on the general cut of the suit, but with too much waist suppression, I really look minuscule. Or as hornsup84 said, feminine-looking.

[jose_jackson]

Agreed, hornsup. I shoot for slim with angles as opposed to the picture above. It reminds me too much of a Victorian dress. Also with the sides scooped in like that it just seems unnatural, much like a sack suit but in the other directions. Both are unflattering to the masculine form, imo.