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MTM Shirts: Recent experiences? Also, dress shirts vs. casual shirts.

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    MTM Shirts: Recent experiences? Also, dress shirts vs. casual shirts.

    So I'm working on ordering my first made-to-measure shirt. I've gone over a bunch of the online reviews as well as some of the threads in this forum and have settled on ordering a shirt from Proper Cloth. Just to see how it goes, I'll probably order one from Luxire as well. So I have a couple of question for the forum:

    1. Anyone have any recent experiences with any of the main MTM shirt makers: Proper Cloth, Luxire, Ratio, Modern Tailor, etc.? Since these services are relatively new, I'm wondering if things have gotten better (or worse) with some of these vendors.

    2. Now that I have some control over the dimensions of my shirts, I'm wondering if I should do anything different between my dress shirts (i.e. ones that will be worn with a tie) and my casual shirts. Other than perhaps making the casual shirts shorter so that they can be comfortably worn untucked, should there be any other differences between the two types of button-ups?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    #2
    most people talk about Spier and McKay on this site as well. I dont have experience with any of them. I really do want to try this out as i dont fit OTR jackets at all (shoulders are narrower than most apparently) and with many retailers my shirts start to pull in the chest when buttoned. Im about 5'10 170 lbs so this is incredibly frustrating and more expensive than I want

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      #3
      I buy most of my shirts from Luxire, so I can offer whatever feedback you like, feel free to ask.

      Luxire, in my opinion, is vastly superior to propercloth. They do not charge for shipping or mother of pearl buttons, and offer unlimited customization. For example, you can choose to have the back waist measure smaller than the front waist to create a taper without actually darting the shirt - propercloth does not allow this. Similarly, you can do the same thing with the upper back so you don't need back pleats to give you better range of motion. They allow unlimited customization of collar style, cuff style, and whatever else.

      That being said, Luxire is much more confusing to work with for a first time MTM experience because of all this. It can be overwhelming, and because they get so many odd one-off requests they won't question your order much - so if your measurements are crazy, they won't say "are you sure?" they'll just make it.

      Given that, my recommendation would be to start with proper cloth, as they're more beginner-friendly, then send a proper cloth shirt to luxire for replication.

      As far as styles go, I alternate between soft, lightly lined but unfused NOBD2 collars, Broke and Bespoke button-down collars (great roll), and mercer and sons collars (for ligher weight shirts). They all look good with a tie but the NOBD2 with collar stays looks best, although for a "true" dress shirt I'd get a collar with more fusing. Luxire does them all well. I get all my shirts cut at the same length - 29.5", which for me is the longest length I can wear untucked but also stays comfortably tucked.

      Feel free to ask me any questions. Unfortunately I'm on a business trip so I can't shoot you any pictures but I can when I return if you like.

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        #4
        Hi Nova. Thanks for the reply. Your message mirrors a lot of what I had been reading. I decided to go with Proper Cloth since this was my first MTM shirt and their website was easier to navigate. I'm planning on trying out Luxire as well.

        I actually have a bit of experience with shirt fit since I sew and have done alterations on some of the thrifted shirts that I've picked up in recent years. However, there is a big difference in doing small alterations (darts, taking in the sides) to a shirt to make it fit better, compared to trying to create the proper shirt dimensions from scratch: how wide should the yoke be; how much room do I really need in the chest and waist; how big of a collar do I want; etc.

        Anyways, I'm excited for the new project. I'll let you know how it all goes.

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          #5
          I had fantastic service from Deo Veritas. Very fast, very responsive, and even offer a cocktail cuff in addition to a large selection of collars. Even better they accepted my modifications to the cuffs to make them less like Tom Ford's and more like the classic 1960s version. Great fabric as well - I can't recommend them enough.

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            #6
            I ordered Proper Cloth shirts. I did an in person fitting in their store in NYC. The first shirt came back good but not great. I had a more savvy employee helping me when I came back to have my first shirt checked. He made a few changes and reordered the shirt.

            The shirt came back amazing - best I've had and a huge upgrade from my BB off the rack shirts I've worn for ages.

            I also ordered one of the selvedge chambray shirts from Proper Cloth and it is pretty cool too.

            I keep meaning to post on here looking for more custom shirt advice too. I want to go back and order a few more shirts.

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              #7
              I have a pending spier and mackay MTM order. I guess I can respond to this in a few weeks. The price is pretty great though, but we'll see what happens.

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                #8
                Originally posted by TMann View Post
                2. Now that I have some control over the dimensions of my shirts, I'm wondering if I should do anything different between my dress shirts (i.e. ones that will be worn with a tie) and my casual shirts. Other than perhaps making the casual shirts shorter so that they can be comfortably worn untucked, should there be any other differences between the two types of button-ups?
                Depending on how slim you like your dress shirt to be, your untucked casual shirts may need to be slightly wider in waist area so that they aren't tight around your pant/belt area.

                If you wear your dress shirts mostly under a jacket, you'll want the sleeves long enough to show some cuff, even when your arms are outstretched. This requires the sleeves to be a bit longer, but with a cuff tight enough that it doesn't slip down past your wrist. With a casual shirt that you will wear without a jacket you might not want sleeves that are as long, since you'll see the bunching up of the fabric along the arm (not an issue with dress shirts hidden under a jacket).

                As already mentioned, collar type and fusing/lining is a consideration. I don't like stiff collars on any kind of shirt, so I'll often opt for a unlined and unfused collar, although for some of my recent Spier & Mackay dress shirts I asked for lightly fused collars, which makes ironing easier. I also generally go for a button down collar for casual shirts and a spread collar for dress shirts.

                I choose a clean, non-pleated back for all my shirts, but casual, button down collars traditionally have a box pleat. I would not order a box pleat on a spread collar dress shirt, since I think it looks wrong. At most I would go for side pleats, although I find all pleats unnecessary on my shirts.

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                  #9
                  I have tried MTM from Spier and Mackay. Service is great and the price is super low when in bundle. There is a decent fabric selection (not to the level of Luxire), and construction is decent. I recently got an OTR Kamakura shirt, and construction/quality on that one seems superior to MTM S&M. And the Kamakura collar roll is legendary for a reason.

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