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J. Crew Lapels Continued

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    J. Crew Lapels Continued

    I looked at the link posted by Joe about J Crew's menswear. https://www.instagram.com/p/BSBUVrZDu5H/?hl=en

    As you may have noticed, the lapels look wider. This is just a small sample of JC jackets, but it is a signal on which way the company is headed.

    I wonder if they will phase out the ludow, or just adjust it. Thoughts?

    #2
    My guess is that they'll continue to call it the "Ludlow", but the lapels will change since wider seems to be trendy now? (wide cute pant legs, lapels, etc.) I like the wider lapels, personally, but wish they'd give us a longer collar on their OCBDs so we can have some real collar roll.

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      #3
      In theory they should beef up the collars to match the wider ties. One can hope.

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        #4
        They should also do something about those very structured shoulders all of their jackets have.

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          #5
          Originally posted by madmanSCDP View Post
          My guess is that they'll continue to call it the "Ludlow", but the lapels will change since wider seems to be trendy now? (wide cute pant legs, lapels, etc.) I like the wider lapels, personally, but wish they'd give us a longer collar on their OCBDs so we can have some real collar roll.
          With you on the likely path they'll take. For OCBDs, I have a Lands End OCBD and a Brooks Brothers on the way (considerably more expensive than the LE, but there was a nice discount plus the local shop to me offers a very generous military discount on top of all other sales/codes, so the price was actually fairly comparable). The LE has a fantastic roll, and I already know the BB will as well.

          LE's are $50 without discounts; there's a 25% code going right now at the top of the website. I can definitely recommend them. May not be great in the summer depending on your location; I'm strongly considering a couple Spier & Mackay summer oxfords for the hot and humid DC weather (lots of friends coming out to visit at various times over the summer, and of course the Smithsonian/National Mall is on everyone's list....yay, July/August!!). They seem to have a decent roll at least in photos on the website.
          https://www.professorhorseyhead.com

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            #6
            S&Ms have a great collar roll. I haven't had the same effect from LE's OCBDs but they are much better than Old Navy/GAP/Jcrew. I wear my LEs casually and not with a tie for this reason.

            In terms of the OP question, JCrew has a new line of wider lapels jackets (excluded from promos up to now) and quite frankly I don't think their regular Ludlows will change any time soon. The Crosby jackets have 0.25 inch wider lapels which is a welcomed change but still not great.

            In terms of the wider lapels being more trendy, I would argue that the 3-3.5 lapels were/are timeless and the now fading thin lapels are the dying fashion. The trendy part is to have super wide lapels (about 3/4 or more of the distance to the shoulder) with a very high notch. This is also not a timeless look that will appear dated in xx years.

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              #7
              Originally posted by doomx View Post
              In terms of the wider lapels being more trendy, I would argue that the 3-3.5 lapels were/are timeless and the now fading thin lapels are the dying fashion. The trendy part is to have super wide lapels (about 3/4 or more of the distance to the shoulder) with a very high notch. This is also not a timeless look that will appear dated in xx years.
              Spot the heck on. Case in point: This photo from another "style-related forum" of which I'm also a member:



              Like he's about to fly away....

              Don't get me wrong, i totally understand the style function and comfort of Solaro fabric.....but daaaaaaaaaaaaaaang them's some big lapels. I definitely don't have enough brave pills in the medicine cabinet to pull it off.
              https://www.professorhorseyhead.com

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                #8
                ^^at some point, with lapels like those, its becomes a costume instead of an outfit.

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                  #9
                  I think they will keep the narrow lapel Ludlow (at least for awhile) and just identify the wider lapel version as "wide lapel Ludlow" or something. Trends come and go, but it will take awhile for it to filter down through their clientele. In some pockets of the world, the skinny tie, skinny lapel thing is just getting started (Midwest).

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by doomx View Post
                    S&Ms have a great collar roll. I haven't had the same effect from LE's OCBDs but they are much better than Old Navy/GAP/Jcrew. I wear my LEs casually and not with a tie for this reason.

                    In terms of the OP question, JCrew has a new line of wider lapels jackets (excluded from promos up to now) and quite frankly I don't think their regular Ludlows will change any time soon. The Crosby jackets have 0.25 inch wider lapels which is a welcomed change but still not great.

                    In terms of the wider lapels being more trendy, I would argue that the 3-3.5 lapels were/are timeless and the now fading thin lapels are the dying fashion. The trendy part is to have super wide lapels (about 3/4 or more of the distance to the shoulder) with a very high notch. This is also not a timeless look that will appear dated in xx years.
                    Yeah, with you there about lapel widths. What I meant is that the trends seem to be aligning with the more timeliness styles right now (as they tend to do periodically, the "ivy-league look" was trending back in the 50s for example).

                    I've wanted to try out the SM OCBDs for a while, but am hesitant for the same reason I'm holding off on buying more from Kamakura (beautiful, fantastic collapsed roll I might add); SM sells their shirts only by neck size, not neck and sleeve. I wear a 16 or 16.5 neck with a 34/34.5 sleeve, but I'm worried the sleeves will be too long. My Kamakura white OCBD fits spot on in the neck but they only carry size 36 sleeves for my neck and even after having the sleeves tailored it still feels and looks off when I wear it without a sportcoat or sweater (and I often like to roll my sleeves up when wearing an OCBD).

                    TL;DR - Does SM have an option to adjust sleeve lengths as well as neck size?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by armedferret View Post
                      With you on the likely path they'll take. For OCBDs, I have a Lands End OCBD and a Brooks Brothers on the way (considerably more expensive than the LE, but there was a nice discount plus the local shop to me offers a very generous military discount on top of all other sales/codes, so the price was actually fairly comparable). The LE has a fantastic roll, and I already know the BB will as well.

                      LE's are $50 without discounts; there's a 25% code going right now at the top of the website. I can definitely recommend them. May not be great in the summer depending on your location; I'm strongly considering a couple Spier & Mackay summer oxfords for the hot and humid DC weather (lots of friends coming out to visit at various times over the summer, and of course the Smithsonian/National Mall is on everyone's list....yay, July/August!!). They seem to have a decent roll at least in photos on the website.
                      I have a LE Hyde Park OCBD that I love but it has no roll - internet tells me LE shortened their collar lengths a few years ago to align more with JCrew style collars

                      Ratio OCBDs are fantastic, btw, and are now about as much as Brooks Brothers's previous model OCBDs were (lined collar and placket).

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by armedferret View Post
                        Spot the heck on. Case in point: This photo from another "style-related forum" of which I'm also a member:



                        Like he's about to fly away....

                        Don't get me wrong, i totally understand the style function and comfort of Solaro fabric.....but daaaaaaaaaaaaaaang them's some big lapels. I definitely don't have enough brave pills in the medicine cabinet to pull it off.
                        Those are peak lapels, which are generally wider than notch lapels, but certainly on such a casual jacket they look wide to the average person (and it doesn't help that it's a single breasted jacket to boot).

                        But here is a similar jacket with rather wide notch lapels. Certainly wider than what J. Crew is calling wide. I'd argue that J. Crew's lapels are classic or average, neither wide nor slim, therefor not trendy.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Alpha King View Post
                          I think they will keep the narrow lapel Ludlow (at least for awhile) and just identify the wider lapel version as "wide lapel Ludlow" or something. Trends come and go, but it will take awhile for it to filter down through their clientele. In some pockets of the world, the skinny tie, skinny lapel thing is just getting started (Midwest).
                          I am pretty sure that slimmer ties have been around in the Midwest. Thetiebar is based in Chicago, and their ties are skinny. Especially among young people, skinny ties are in.

                          I think most people have stores they shop at for ties, and when those stores change the widths they offer, people buy other widths.

                          I don't know how often Kohls or Men's Wearhouse change their tie widths, which is probably the type of places a plurality of Americans buy their ties.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Well, I wouldn't point to Chicago as being completely indicative of the Midwest, due to the size of the city. But anyway, I live in Indianapolis and I noticed skinny ties in general, in maybe 2008-2009? I have just recently, like in the last 2 years, started noticing our new hires right out of school, rocking the skinny ties, slim lapels, no break look. Maybe they just happened to be more trend conscious than the previous hires? Possibly... But the guys 30 and older here are sticking with their baggy suits they probably bought right out of college. Sometimes I'll see some of the older guys with a new suit but they all look like macy's products, no drape, cheap fabric, polyester... Hell, maybe architects and engineers are just ignorant of style in general, I don't know. Well, I do know that engineers tend to dress horribly.

                            Newscasters here still go with 3 button (not the 2-roll threes, I'm talking early 2000's here) jackets, I see that constantly. And a low gorge, but a medium range lapel width. There is a new young guy on one of the networks in the morning that seems to always wear peak lapels, which is interesting.

                            Originally posted by ryn View Post
                            I am pretty sure that slimmer ties have been around in the Midwest. Thetiebar is based in Chicago, and their ties are skinny. Especially among young people, skinny ties are in.

                            I think most people have stores they shop at for ties, and when those stores change the widths they offer, people buy other widths.

                            I don't know how often Kohls or Men's Wearhouse change their tie widths, which is probably the type of places a plurality of Americans buy their ties.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Alpha King View Post
                              Hell, maybe architects and engineers are just ignorant of style in general, I don't know. Well, I do know that engineers tend to dress horribly.

                              .
                              My father, brother, and one of my best friends are engineers. I love them to death, but yes.....ignorant of style and dress horribly is exactly how I would describe what they wear to work (and from what I have seen most of their colleagues are as bad if not worse).

                              Funnily enough when it comes to casual weekend wear or formal events they somehow usually manage to put together solid outfits.

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