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Unwashed khaki selvedge chino

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    Unwashed khaki selvedge chino

    J Crew sells an unwashed selvedge chino that I really like (website pictures and link below). The material is thick at 11.5 oz and, because they are unwashed, are stiff and rough. They are like the chino equivalent of raw denim.

    The problem is that the longest inseam for my waist size is 32 and that length is marginal at best for me. If they shrink at all they will probably start approaching ankle length.

    Does anyone know of an unwashed chino that has a waist size 28 or 29 (actually measurement would be 15" across the waist) and an inseam of 34" or longer? I don't really care if they are selvedge, it's the thicker unwashed material (greater than 11 oz) that I'm after.







    https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/...3169/03169.jsp

    Thanks,

    Mike B

    #2
    I did a quick search and all I found were lots of links to Edwin, a Japanese brand, which doesn't help, as a 32 inseam would probably be long in Japan.

    Have you found other casual pants with a 34 inseam or longer in your size? I'd imagine that's very rare, and finding a cloth like this in that size will be even more rare.

    I think purchasing a size 32/34 and altering the waist is your best bet.

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      #3
      On the cheaper end, Naked & Famous and its sister brand The Unbranded Brand both have a selvedge chino. They come with an inseam of 34" standard. The only drawback is that they have the 5 pocket design like a pair of jeans.

      3sixteen also has a selvedge chino in the 5 pocket style and their inseam is long. Something like 36".

      Left Field is another company to consider although they're on the pricier side. I don't know what their standard inseam is but they usually have a selvedge chino or duck canvas.

      Finally, there's Rogue Territory. Again, on the pricier side but I can vouch for their quality. I have several pairs of jeans from them and they're built to last. Their Officer Trouser in selvedge chino or selvedge canvas are probably closest to the pair from JCrew.

      http://www.rogueterritory.com/shop/o...onze-selvedge/
      http://needsupply.com/mens/brands/ro...ge-bronze.html
      http://needsupply.com/mens/brands/ro...ge-canvas.html

      Edit: Added links and another brand recommendation.
      Last edited by Geo; September 23, 2016, 11:12 AM.

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        #4
        Gustin currently has one selvedge chino up, might wait a bit for delivery but its probably better than how long it would take a different pair to go on sale.

        https://www.weargustin.com/store/4127 $88 + some for shipping isnt too bad for MiUSA, theyre great quality

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          #5
          Originally posted by Geo View Post
          On the cheaper end, Naked & Famous and its sister brand The Unbranded Brand both have a selvedge chino.

          Finally, there's Rogue Territory.
          I know you mentioned in the denim thread they fit similarly, but could you comment on what size you wear in Rogue Territory Stanton and N&F Weird Guy vs brands like J.Crew or Uniqlo? I can't find N&F locally, and I'd like a ball park place to start before ordering online.

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            #6
            Originally posted by connersw View Post
            I know you mentioned in the denim thread they fit similarly, but could you comment on what size you wear in Rogue Territory Stanton and N&F Weird Guy vs brands like J.Crew or Uniqlo? I can't find N&F locally, and I'd like a ball park place to start before ordering online.
            No problem. I'm a 29 in RGT, N&F and JCF Sutton fit and 30 in JCrew Bowery slim. They all fit well in the thighs but are a little loose in the waist. I don't have any Uniqlo jeans but I tried their slim in 29 and 30. Both were extremely tight in the thighs and I can't remember which size felt better in the waist. I'm also a 29 in the 3sixteen SL but the rise was so low I gave up on them after 6 months. I also gave up on N&F pretty quickly for the same reason.

            FWIW I have large thighs so I size for that and live with a slightly loose waist. I also don't subscribe to the whole "you have buy raw denim tight" mentality. Jeans tend to stretch a lot more in the waist then they do in the thighs. In my experience if they don't fit fairly well in the thighs from the start then they don't stretch enough to be comfortable.

            Also, check out the website for Blue Owl. They have pretty detailed measurements for N&F, RGT and 3Sixteen. Measure your best fitting pair of jeans and compare the measurements.
            http://www.blueowl.us/
            Last edited by Geo; September 23, 2016, 03:39 PM.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Geo View Post
              Also, check out the website for Blue Owl. They have pretty detailed measurements for N&F, RGT and 3Sixteen. Measure your best fitting pair of jeans and compare the measurements.
              http://www.blueowl.us/
              Thank you. Exactly the info I was looking for. That website is perfect.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for all the advice.

                I guess what I'm looking for is a bit of a unicorn.

                I don't want 5 pocket style pants so all of those options are out. For me, selvedge is a 'who cares' feature for chinos. What I'm really looking for is the right material and a good fit.

                I have a pair of Gustin chinos and I like the material and the construction is good but the fit didn't really work out for me. I've got chicken legs so I need a narrow thigh. The top block of my Gustin chinos is kind of frumpy looking (even after tailoring).

                I tried a pair of Left Field NYC chinos and, again, the fit was not good on top. The material was nothing special although it was selvedge.

                Maybe I'll give Rough Territory a try. I see those canvas trousers are 11oz which would be a good weight.

                Comment


                  #9
                  What about something like Mountain Khakis: http://www.mountainkhakis.com/produc...-231/freestone They are 10.4oz and pretty rugged. They come in slim fit with 34 or 36 inseam, but you may still want to get them tapered.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Not a fan of the back pockets on those Mountain Khakis, I'll be wearing them in a business casual (manufacturing) environment.

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                      #11
                      From that blueowl site:

                      http://www.blueowl.us/collections/al...ant=3950751809

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                        #12
                        Quick update...I did end up purchasing the J Crew Wallace & Barnes selvedge chinos. I love the material and the fit is also good (trim at the top, slight taper on the bottom). After a few wears I undid the hem on the bottom was able to gain another .5" in length on re-hemming.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          On a related topic, has anyone tried the RRL Officer Chino?

                          http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/i...uctId=59460756

                          I believe these used to be made from a rigid chino material but now they are (according to the description) 'heavily washed'. The good thing is that RRL offers them in size 28x34.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            To revive the topic on 'unwashed', 'raw', and 'selvedge' chinos....

                            I've tried two brands of selvedge chinos since I last posted in this thread.

                            The first was the Kerouac fit selvedge chinos from Left Field NYC, here's the link:

                            https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections...hst=collection

                            The fit of the Left Field NYC chino didn't work out for me. It was loose pretty much overall for my waist size and had the dreaded baggy thighs that I get with so many chinos. The material was also nothing special. I'm sure it was of decent quality but I didn't justify the price of $175 to me. I ended up returning them.

                            The second brand was the Tapered Selvage Chino from Brave Star Selvedge, link:

                            https://bravestarselvage.com/product...elvage-chino-1

                            The material on the Brave Star chinos was great. It is thick and tough and very stiff to begin with (these are advertised as 'raw' which I take to mean unwashed). The color is a dark khaki (which I prefer). The fit is a touch loose in the hips for my waist size but trim in the thighs and knee and tight in the calves and at the hem. I wore them for two months and washed them three times (first was was a hand wash) so take the shrink out of them. Then I had them hemmed (a bit long in case they shrink more) and I had the pants let out from the knee to the hem (you can see this in the last picture).

                            My plan is to wear these chinos with oxford shirts or polos or t-shirts. I think they are a little too casual (and a little trim) to wear with a sports coat. Overall I'm pleased with the set up in quality from my Gap and Uniqlo chinos and would say the $98 is worth it.

                            The pictures below are just of the Brave Star Selvedge chinos.








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