Suit Blazer Length?

[Eyo]

I'm getting a suit made with Indochino, I know some don't really care for them, but I'm using the coupon offered a while ago and couldn't pass it up for my first custom made suit.


I'm having difficulty figuring out what I should have the Jacket/Shirt length be. I don't currently have a blazer that is a length I like, and am wondering how you guys measure it. I kind of have a long torso, so completely covering my rear would make it look too long, I think. I'm 5'9" and measured 29" for the length, sound about right?


Also, for the shoulders, I was told to measure from the end of the shoulder bone to shoulder bone. Is this correct, even if I have some muscle there? Measured 18".


I know the length and shoulders are super important and hard to get tailored afterwards, so I want to make sure I get it right the first time. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[jondunc]

I am 6'1" and a 40/41R and I prefer 29.5-30". That is measured from the base of the collar. Add 1.5" if you are talking about the whole length of the jacket.

[Eyo]

Yea, I measured from the base of the collar, and meant the entire length of the jacket. You're 6'1" with a 29.5-30" and I'm 5'9" with a 29"? Hmm, I may need to remeasure...

[CJJ]

Here is an interesting discussion around this subject:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...suit-jacket-be


Here is on excerpt:


Alan Flusser suggests two different methods (on page 41 in Dressing the Man):


1) Bottom of the jacket should line up with the knuckle of the thumb. Generally reliable but doesn't work as well with people with unusually long or short arms relative to height.


2) Measure the distance from the jacket collar (at the point where it joins the coat's body) to the floor, then divide by half.

[jason_carreira]

No, that sounds about right. I'm guessing you're about a 38R?

[Eyo]

Yea, 38R or 38S. I'm about a 38 in the shoulders, but I have a small waist, 31ish. Rs can be too long usually.

[jason_carreira]

29" length sounds about right for a 38R... sometimes even 29.5"

[nicholascrawford]

For the shoulders - do you have a perfect fitting dress shirt you could measure? One that fits very snugly at the neck and has the shoulder seams at the edge of your shoulder.

[Eyo]

nicholas, unfortunately I don't. I've asked Indochino and they say to measure to the end of the shoulder bone, but I'm worried that my shoulder muscles will bulge out. I'm guessing they take it all into account by using my other measurements? ex. bicep size