Official "How Does This Fit?" Thread

[jwest]

Looks like everyone got new blazers...

Need a fit check on this blazer, my particular concern is the sleeve length being short possibly. Thoughts on this and overall are appreciated.

Front


Length


Side

[jwest]

two more

Shoulder


Shoulder

[ajk170]

...Know the arms would need a slight shortening, but not loving the overall fit.




I'll probably just spend the extra $100 for the navy suitsupply blazer Joe recommended. I know their stuff fits my tweener body.

@DerekH- +1 with greg_s- the body seems too big as well as the shoulders.

[ajk170]

two more

Shoulder


Shoulder

@jwest- I'm no expert- but the two shoulder shots are hard to gauge since you're holing up your left arm slightly and not letting hang naturally. That has caused your shoulder to rumple and create a couple "waves" that, if when the arm hangs naturally continue to exist, suggests the jacket isn't fitting to your build. But in your picture titled "Front" your arm hangs naturally and the shoulder appears to have a smooth, flowing and unbroken line from the neck to the end of the deltoid. Moreover, there does not appear to be a "divot" where the arm meets the shoulder seem which would suggest, if present, that your shoulders are not filling out the jacket and the shoulder pad is extending beyond the deltoid. The overall length looks good too, IMO, since you can curl your fingers when the arm hangs naturally at the side and grasp some of the coat. The sleeve length is hard to tell as well- but from everything I've read on here and the multitude of other forums and blogs suggest 1/4-1/2 inch of shirt cuff showing. The end of the jacket sleeve should hit at the center of the wrist bone- could be a smidge above it. So if the sleeves meet those criteria I call it good. You didn't show a shot if it buttoned so hard to tell if you had the button "X". It seems as though many say this is acceptable while the other camp will say it's too tight and not fitted correctly. I'm not versed enough to say if that's a shoulder issue or a waist issue. My gut tells me it's a shoulder issue.

[ajk170]

The wife and I went on an impromptu outlet shopping trip yesterday. I didn't expect to find much, but I snagged this completely unstructured, barely lined navy cotton blazer from Brooks Brothers for $100. I'd bee hunting for something like this for a while. It's a little less structured than some of the J Crew jackets I was looking at. Anyways, the fit looked pretty spot on to me. It's a little roomier in the waist than my BR and J Crew jackets. Thoughts?

Looks pretty good in the shoulders, length and sleeves. I would personally have it taken in on the sides- it looks a little too baggy and as a result detracts from the overall look. FWIW, I'm having a hard time with my jackets right now since I am cursed with carrying any weight that I have in the stomach- pot belly style- even though I'm barely 170 at 5'10", people hardly call me heavy. Nonetheless, I am hyper sensitive to my stomach and if anything gets tailored too much I tend to feel that it extenuates this feature so tailoring is a bit tricky for me with an otherwise perfect fit. You don't look like you have this issue so that's why I suggest taking the jacket in to get rid of the extra room in the front of the jacket.

[jwest]

@jwest- I'm no expert- but the two shoulder shots are hard to gauge since you're holing up your left arm slightly and not letting hang naturally. That has caused your shoulder to rumple and create a couple "waves" that, if when the arm hangs naturally continue to exist, suggests the jacket isn't fitting to your build. But in your picture titled "Front" your arm hangs naturally and the shoulder appears to have a smooth, flowing and unbroken line from the neck to the end of the deltoid. Moreover, there does not appear to be a "divot" where the arm meets the shoulder seem which would suggest, if present, that your shoulders are not filling out the jacket and the shoulder pad is extending beyond the deltoid. The overall length looks good too, IMO, since you can curl your fingers when the arm hangs naturally at the side and grasp some of the coat. The sleeve length is hard to tell as well- but from everything I've read on here and the multitude of other forums and blogs suggest 1/4-1/2 inch of shirt cuff showing. The end of the jacket sleeve should hit at the center of the wrist bone- could be a smidge above it. So if the sleeves meet those criteria I call it good. You didn't show a shot if it buttoned so hard to tell if you had the button "X". It seems as though many say this is acceptable while the other camp will say it's too tight and not fitted correctly. I'm not versed enough to say if that's a shoulder issue or a waist issue. My gut tells me it's a shoulder issue.

Here's a couple more of the shoulder. I think the shoulders are maybe a smidge too wide, not too much. This jacket has moderate padding but meets the "padding and arm touch the wall at same time lean test". I have always followed the rule that your shirt sleeve should be long enough to touch the V where your thumb and forefinger meet when unbuttoned. Alot of the pics i see here show shirts that are way shorter than that, barely reaching the wrist. They're cuffs must ride up considerably when stretching the arm across the body i suspect. With my shirt length this jacket is showing almost an inch of cuff at times, a bit more than the rule of thumb, but can i get away with it?

[ajk170]

@Jwest- the shoulders look ok though, I hate to say it, but the profile shot isn't doing great justice. I agree with your take as well on the shirt length though I probably stop about 3/8ths short of the "V". Definitely beyond the wrist bone.

So in that context of your shirt coming to the "V" and if you agree that the bottom of the jacket sleeve should be to the center of the wrist bone- it looks very, very good. The jacket is not too short.

I really like the article from Effortless Gent that tries to depict several common flaws in a man's fit for a jacket
http://effortlessgent.com/sport-coat-suit-fit-mistakes/

You probably have seen this already, but it's good to mention for those that haven't. I think most of what's highlighted in the EG article is said in many different ways around this forum and on the main site, but I haven't seen it consolidated and articulated in one article as well like in EGs article. Plus, it's a more of a 201 course than a mere intro to fit esp with the sleeve pitch and rumpled shoulders.

I do see one thing, just barely and it's hard to tell- at the back of your neck it appears that you have a very slight "roll" or crease (you see it on the second photo). This isn't talked about a lot from what I've found- maybe on SF but not a lot here (I could be wrong) but that "roll" or crease is also caused by improper fit - I do know that it can be adjusted so it must not be so much a shoulder issue. Conversely, that "roll" or crease could be caused by your right arm taking the pic- so it's hard to say.

If the shoulder fit is so slight, then it's very possible we're poll-vaulting over mouse turds. I go back to, if there is a "divot" or "rumpling" and it's noticeable when standing straight with arms hanging naturally, a return would be prudent. But if you have clean lines on both fronts and the shoulder pad-to-the-wall seems fine- then it's a keeper since all other aspects look good (even if it's breaking a rule-o-thumb)- except for my thought that it needs to be taken in a little.

[DerekH]

@DerekH- +1 with greg_s- the body seems too big as well as the shoulders.

Thanks ajk and greg. I'm returning it today and going to try the unstructured havana from suitsupply. I am wondering though, for future attempts -- do you think sizing down in the ludlow to a 40L (doesn't look like there's ever a 41) would be worth trying? I'm dubious and starting to think I just can't get a ludlow that'll fit me.

[DerekH]

Blazer odyssey continues. This time the unstructured Havana-fit Navy Wool from Suitsupply.

http://i.imgur.com/HKNpXO8.jpg









Feel like the fit is decent, but the arms are definitely just a hair too long. Since it is suitsupply, they're functional buttons.

Anyone know if they can tailor this to shorten them at the store or am I boned (I'm pretty sure I'm boned)?

[Lukeduke]

Blazer odyssey continues. This time the unstructured Havana-fit Navy Wool from Suitsupply.

http://i.imgur.com/HKNpXO8.jpg









Feel like the fit is decent, but the arms are definitely just a hair too long. Since it is suitsupply, they're functional buttons.

Anyone know if they can tailor this to shorten them at the store or am I boned (I'm pretty sure I'm boned)?

Shoulders look great, but like you said, sleeves are too long. A tailor can shorten them, but it won't be cheap.

[DerekH]

There's about an inch of sleeve before the first button, I wonder if I could get them to half that. Think that would make the buttons look silly?

Plan B is to swing by the brick and mortar tomorrow to return it and see if a 42 regular (which has about an inch shorter sleeve) in the havana-style fits; odds are it'll be too short in the body but just perfect in the sleeve.

I was so optimistic too since the Lazio cut fits me perfectly off the rack.

[ajk170]

DerekH- I think you're hosed on the functional buttons but I have read in a few places that the arms can be shortened from the top- but that's expensive. Considering it's Suitsupply, I would imagine they can do it... for a price. I think if they went a .5 inch up from the cuff it would look odd to even the casual observer... although they might just think that's a fashion-forward type of thing.

[ajk170]

http://restartyourstyle.com/193/the-...ng-their-best/

...I have always followed the rule that your shirt sleeve should be long enough to touch the V where your thumb and forefinger meet when unbuttoned. Alot of the pics i see here show shirts that are way shorter than that, barely reaching the wrist. They're cuffs must ride up considerably when stretching the arm across the body i suspect. With my shirt length this jacket is showing almost an inch of cuff at times, a bit more than the rule of thumb, but can i get away with it?

I found these articles in another blog and think they articulate and show the shirt cuff length issue. Although you mention where the cuff should be when un-buttoned, the only problem with that rule is where does the cuff fall when buttoned (when actually worn properly)? I assume the shirt cuff, when buttoned, stops at the writ-bone.thumb-bone divot (or a little beyond) but not as a result of the shirt being at it's max length but rahter the nad is acting as a natural stop. Point is, a man know has extra sleeve fabric bunched up under his jacket, and when removed, the sleeves are too long.
http://restartyourstyle.com/193/the-...ng-their-best/
http://effortlessgent.com/perfect-fi...t-sport-shirt/

**Note** In my effort to post this, I didn't read all the comments on the EG site and they make the comments about what I mention- excess pooling in shirt length... concensus seems to be - go with what makes a man comfortable sense a shirt might appear to be too short when you reach out to shake hands.

[DerekH]

Blazer odyssey is concluded. Quick trip up to Georgetown last night exchanged the Havana Plain Navy 42L for a 42R. Sleeves fit, shoulders seem good, material is amazing.

[ajk170]

Derek- Look so much better than the last one- very nice- and a great shirt too!