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    #31


    My tailor will actually cut out part of the shoulders to bring in the shoulders a bit. He charges 55$ to take off the arm sleeves, and cut out part of the shoulders. Also keep in mind that when a tailor performs that snip, it will bring up the sleeve length a bit.

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      #32


      I was wondering what exactly well-fitting shoulders should look/feel like?

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        #33


        They should feel snug but not tight or constricting. The shoulder should be smooth and the seam should sit right above the point on top of your shoulder.

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          #34


          I got my two orders of the gray cotton blazer from the gap. I ordered a 38s and a 40s, since I usually wear one of those sizes. It is definitely shorter than I anticipated. these pics are the 40s, since the 38s was too small and too short. Help me critique the fit? I will be having the waist suppressed a few inches and I will have the sleeves shortened, so I don't need to hear about those.


          They pressed the lapels and collar incorrectly, which is currently annoying me. I am assuming that this is easy enough to fix, but if anyone knows differently let me know.


          http://s1050.photobucket.com/albums/s407/Big_Scooter/?action=view&current=IMG_4243-1.jpg


          http://s1050.photobucket.com/albums/s407/Big_Scooter/?action=view&current=IMG_4244.jpg


          http://s1050.photobucket.com/albums/s407/Big_Scooter/?action=view&current=IMG_4245.jpg


          This last one I am holding the waist a few inches closer, to simulate what it would look like once the waist is taken in:


          http://s1050.photobucket.com/albums/s407/Big_Scooter/?action=view&current=IMG_4246.jpg


          My lower back is really concave, so I can't generally get as close of a fit in the waist as I would like in jackets, because my butt will stick out through the vents.


          Is it too short? Other problems? Let me know if you need different pics. Also, if there is a post around here on how to post pictures in a thread, I would love to be linked to it. Thanks!

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            #35


            Sorry the collar on my shirt sucks in these pics. I had just thrown the jacket on and I don't think I pulled the collar up.

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              #36


              Yeah, it's too short IMO. I've never seen a jacket where the sleeves and the bottom of the coat line up. Weird.


              It's also balanced too far forward for your posture. The front rises up and the back is lower which makes the front lift away from your body.

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                #37


                Hmm... yea.. I definitely see what you are talking about.


                Any chance having the waist tapered would hide that problem, or do you think I should just return it? I wouldn't mind having the jacket just a touch short. Maybe it would make me seem taller. I'm only 5 ft 7. I would prefer it to be an inch longer, though.

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                  #38


                  I'm not sure if it would hide it or not. I'd guess it would alleviate it a bit, but not completely hide it. Fixing the balance is complicated and pricy, so if you decide that's necessary I'd say it's not worth it. Personally I think the trend of too-short jackets looks awkward, but it's trendy for some reason.

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                    #39


                    I wouldn't do any expensive alteration. To be honest, I'm an odd fit for jackets and I have only found one that I am completely satisfied with. I'd be perfectly happy with 90% there.


                    I'm not a fan of too-short jackets either. This one is right on the line for me and definitely trendier than I usually do. Maybe I'll hold onto the jacket for a week or so and see if my local gap ever decides to stock them so I can try on a 40r.


                    Thanks for the help!

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                      #40


                      You might get a much different fit with a 40R - who knows. But their 40S is definitely not cutting it for you. In the back, between the shoulder blades, there's a fair amount of extra material that would need to get altered too. Seems like the 40 fits pretty perfectly in your shoulders.


                      I'm having a hard time visualizing the front/back balance...JC - what do you mean by that?

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                        #41


                        Think of the body of the suit like a bell and he's the clapper... The body is tilted forward and he's clanging against the back

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                          #42


                          I don't usually mind slightly short jackets as I really only ever wear them casually. That, however, is really short, scooter. Even for casual wear, IMO.

                          "You don't need money to dress better than you do" - Salvatore Romano

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                            #43


                            That's a good analogy. I see what you're saying. So maybe waist suppression and bringing it in around the hips would help. Still...it's one thing to have one or two things to fix about a jacket. Not a whole laundry list of things you can't really change like the length.

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                              #44


                              Yea, it is definitely going back. I'll call the gap later to see if they ever got the jackets in. Strange that they would make the jacket so short. Like I said, I'm 5 foot 7, so that jacket must be made for people about 5 foot 3 to be that short on me.


                              I'll post again if I try the 40r. This has been a lot of help.

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                                #45


                                Perhaps this might be helpful:




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