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    Went to see "my" tailor this morning to get counsel on the suit above. His recommendation was that it was high enough quality to work with, but that I needed at least the next size up due to my shoulders, chest, and butt being unusual for my size. Said he could correct some of what was there, and it wouldn't be a bad fit, but he couldn't make it lay truly well without the benefit of some extra material to work with. The suit has been returned.

    As an aside, the man he was helping when I walked in looked phenomenal in his freshly tailored suit. Turns out he spent $4700 on it. The wool felt like a baby's butt, sooo soft.

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      [MENTION=12746]ronrob[/MENTION] The first thing that jumped out at me in the pics was the button stance looks awfully high for you, and the jacket length is borderline too short. It could be the camera angle that gives that impression, but I'd tread carefully if I were you. You're a tall guy, and you don't want to make your legs seem disproportionately long.

      As far as the back wrinkles, I believe that might be due to posture. I get similar horizontal folds across my shoulder blades on several of my jackets, apparently I have a more upright posture than most.

      Hope that helps, and good luck with the tailor. Maybe ask for his opinion on the button stance and length, as it's much easier to judge in real life.

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        [MENTION=12746]ronrob[/MENTION] may just be the photo but the way the shoulders are divoting may indicate that you may need to size down to a 40l. Im 6'4 and im either a 42 or 40l depending on the brand but YMMV. Neck roll is a 20 dollar tailoring job for "low collar". Jacket sleeves and pants will definitely need a hem and the waist will need suppression depending on your preference.

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          Originally posted by roostertail View Post
          [MENTION=12746]ronrob[/MENTION] The first thing that jumped out at me in the pics was the button stance looks awfully high for you, and the jacket length is borderline too short. It could be the camera angle that gives that impression, but I'd tread carefully if I were you. You're a tall guy, and you don't want to make your legs seem disproportionately long.

          As far as the back wrinkles, I believe that might be due to posture. I get similar horizontal folds across my shoulder blades on several of my jackets, apparently I have a more upright posture than most.

          Hope that helps, and good luck with the tailor. Maybe ask for his opinion on the button stance and length, as it's much easier to judge in real life.
          Roostertail, my tailor agrees with you. He said 44L, maybe even extra long. Of course a 44XL is a much harder find. In my noob-ness I thought the jacket length was right on, but he assured me otherwise. He said a 42L won't be big enough despite the chest number fitting (41.5), as my shoulder measure is 50.5. He said that the divoting is coming from that as opposed to the jacket's shoulders being too big as would conventionally be assumed. Posture plays a role in the horizontal striping below the collar in the back (I stand very tall), as does the shoulder measure.

          The pants weren't that close. I have too much butt from squats, and the thighs were too snug as well. Again in my noob-ness I thought they were passable. 34 fits in the waist, but only in the waist. He asked me to size up to 36 and hope that it's enough to get the butt and thighs some room so he can take in the waist. His basic summation was "I can make a big suit smaller, but not a small suit bigger. You are very tall, trim and broad, and obviously exercise. Don't blame yourself, blame the suit. Bring back a bigger one and I will make it look wonderful on you."

          Comment


            Originally posted by ronrob View Post
            Roostertail, my tailor agrees with you. He said 44L, maybe even extra long. Of course a 44XL is a much harder find. In my noob-ness I thought the jacket length was right on, but he assured me otherwise. He said a 42L won't be big enough despite the chest number fitting (41.5), as my shoulder measure is 50.5. He said that the divoting is coming from that as opposed to the jacket's shoulders being too big as would conventionally be assumed. Posture plays a role in the horizontal striping below the collar in the back (I stand very tall), as does the shoulder measure.

            The pants weren't that close. I have too much butt from squats, and the thighs were too snug as well. Again in my noob-ness I thought they were passable. 34 fits in the waist, but only in the waist. He asked me to size up to 36 and hope that it's enough to get the butt and thighs some room so he can take in the waist. His basic summation was "I can make a big suit smaller, but not a small suit bigger. You are very tall, trim and broad, and obviously exercise. Don't blame yourself, blame the suit. Bring back a bigger one and I will make it look wonderful on you."
            Just out of curiosity, I'm wondering how old your tailor is. Have you used him/her before? Tailors can and do give bad advice depending on the fit they like to see and what they're capable of doing. I ask because I would respectfully disagree with your tailor. I would not recommend a larger jacket. That may solve one problem, but it could create a much bigger one...and the length on the jacket appears to be spot on. You may have a lot of experience with and confidence in this tailor, and if so, stick with that...his basic premise is correct (you can make it smaller), but it's also extremely expensive to do that much cutting for marginal benefit IMO. Has he quoted you a price for what he recommends on a larger suit?

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              [MENTION=12746]ronrob[/MENTION], just my two cents, but I kinda agree with uklawdawg. I am skeptical whether a larger size jacket will fix the shoulder issue. They actually look borderline wide already. The slight divoting might be related to your wider shoulders vs your chest, as your tailor says, but it could also just be due to the armhole cut on this brand is not appropriate for you. See the post on Shoulder Divots. I would suggest trying out a few different brands to see which shoulder shape you like best.

              Regarding the jacket length, I think it looks just right. If your tailor is more old-fashioned, he might prefer a longer length. Just a matter of opinion. My rule: it should end right at the buttocks crease.

              The rippling at the upper back is fairly common and should be easy to fix.

              Regarding the pants, you will probably need to get suit separates to get more freedom in sizing, if you aren't doing that already.

              Comment


                Originally posted by uklawdawg View Post
                Just out of curiosity, I'm wondering how old your tailor is. Have you used him/her before? Tailors can and do give bad advice depending on the fit they like to see and what they're capable of doing. I ask because I would respectfully disagree with your tailor. I would not recommend a larger jacket. That may solve one problem, but it could create a much bigger one...and the length on the jacket appears to be spot on. You may have a lot of experience with and confidence in this tailor, and if so, stick with that...his basic premise is correct (you can make it smaller), but it's also extremely expensive to do that much cutting for marginal benefit IMO. Has he quoted you a price for what he recommends on a larger suit?
                I have no regular tailor. I'm literally dipping my toes into this for the first time, and I haven't had a suit tailored since I was in my late teens, 20+ years ago.

                This is a background story on the tailor. He's a Polish Jew, survivor of Auschwitz and tailor to the SS. In his older years he's taken up weightlifting. He's 88 now, I think. The story is seven pages, but worth the read if you're into history at all.

                http://thislandpress.com/01/16/2012/mr-ray-fits-a-suit/

                Mr. Ray has ideas on how a suit should fit, as he's been doing it for 70 years or more, but he's willing to do whatever is asked - he offered me advice over the course of about 20 minutes of conversation. It's possible that he is simply too old to understand what the younger crowd wants, but if the man who came in in front of me me is any indication, it's not a problem. The man who was in front of me would have this board buzzing with his suit quality and fit - he absolutely nails what this forum is about, but at a price tag not fathomable to most of us. Of course for what he spent I should hope so! I've also had several recommendations from friends who say he's worth the visit.

                For comparision, I can offer two shots if it will help. One is a 40L Kenneth Cole slim at Macy's (light gray), the other a blue JF Farrar or whatever at JC Penney. Both are synthetics, I was trying on for size only because (particularly JC Penney) had almost no full wool options in the store in a slimmer cut.


                Last edited by ronrob; October 15, 2014, 03:19 PM.

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                  Originally posted by xKMAN83x View Post
                  Picked up the Broadmoor Quilted Jacket in Vintage Navy the other day from J.Crew wondering what you guys think in terms of fit.. if I should consider sizing down to an XS or if it looks okie, im afraid if i goto an XS it will be too tight throughout the chest and torso when im wearing a thick sweater or shirt underneath

                  http://imgur.com/a/oFXa4#H1kcwHA

                  May I ask what your dimensions are?

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                    I have two suits from CombatGent that came out to $282 after tailoring. I was quite satisfied with how they turned out, but I was curious to see how a Napoli from SuitSupply would look OTR / out-of-the-box. Thoughts?




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                      Got my shirt back from ratio again. There is still something going on with the chest/armhole area. Anyone know why this is happening?

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                        Originally posted by zcm View Post
                        Got my shirt back from ratio again. There is still something going on with the chest/armhole area. Anyone know why this is happening?

                        The first (and only so far) shirt I got from Ratio is similar. Does it feel a little tight across your chest? Mind does--almost like it's pulling to the seam area under my arm pits. I'm thinking of going an inch bigger there (chest) and staying the same everywhere else. Curious to hear your thoughts...how does it feel?

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                          [MENTION=12589]yanagi[/MENTION] It looks pretty good for right out of the box! The torso fit looks spot on, but the sleeves look a touch short. How tall are you? The reason I ask is the button stance looks a touch high, which is good if you're shorter/short legs, but not so great if you're tall. Maybe try a longer size? The ripples across your shoulder blades are probably due to posture, that's an easy fix for a tailor.

                          [MENTION=8564]zcm[/MENTION] I'm gonna guess it's due to higher/smaller armholes. As far as how to solve it, I've got nothing.

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                            Originally posted by uklawdawg View Post
                            The first (and only so far) shirt I got from Ratio is similar. Does it feel a little tight across your chest? Mind does--almost like it's pulling to the seam area under my arm pits. I'm thinking of going an inch bigger there (chest) and staying the same everywhere else. Curious to hear your thoughts...how does it feel?
                            It feels like a very good quality shirt. But the fit so far is just not working for me. I have it remade once already. I just sent CS another email. I'm still hopeful they will get it figured out.

                            Originally posted by roostertail View Post
                            [MENTION=8564]zcm[/MENTION] I'm gonna guess it's due to higher/smaller armholes. As far as how to solve it, I've got nothing.
                            Yeah my thoughts as well. I just sent ratio the same picture. Hopefully they can help me out.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by roostertail View Post
                              [MENTION=12589]yanagi[/MENTION] It looks pretty good for right out of the box! The torso fit looks spot on, but the sleeves look a touch short. How tall are you? The reason I ask is the button stance looks a touch high, which is good if you're shorter/short legs, but not so great if you're tall. Maybe try a longer size? The ripples across your shoulder blades are probably due to posture, that's an easy fix for a tailor.
                              Thanks! I'm 5'9", so I think the button stance works out.

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                                Originally posted by yanagi View Post
                                Thanks! I'm 5'9", so I think the button stance works out.
                                In that case, you should be good. I'm 5'8" with short legs (28" inseam) so it's great for me as well. I like my sleeves slightly longer, but those look perfectly acceptable if you're comfortable with them. All in all, I think you did good, congrats!

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