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Recommend brand/model for a guy with 10+ inch drop

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  • Recommend brand/model for a guy with 10+ inch drop

    New to buying clothes that actually fit, I have the distinct pleasure/challenge of having a near 50 inch chest and a 38 waist (though I did just fit into a pair of size 34 Levi 541). Knowing that I will always going to need a tailor or buy custom jackets, please recommend brands OTR that will require the least amount of tailoring. So far, I have found Jcrew Crosby to be the only option, and they don't do shorts (I'm 5'9). The bad thing is that I'm trying to lose 30-50 lbs, which means an even bigger drop. Where are my broad shoulder guys? Help me out!!!

  • #2
    For any sort of suit you will have to go with a company that offers separates (or MTM) and if you are planning on losing 30-50 lbs, I would not buy anything terribly expensive at the moment. So lets fast forward to where you are 30-50lbs lighter and look like an upside down triangle for comparisons sakes.

    If you must wear a jacket for your job, my first suggestion would be to learn the sport coat (or blazer) and pants matching game. A navy sport coat can go with many different pants and add in a jacket in a brown hue to take care of the rest. If you need another one, you will have figured out a good color to try during your sartorial journey that you want to have. Maybe a lighter blue?

    If you must wear a suit, you better have a good reason as it is going to get expensive. Unless you love wearing something you can find at Macy's, I can't think of any other places other than maybe JC Penny. SuitSupply may max out in size at some point but I would assume pants won't fit quite right. Also to get separates from SuitSupply I have heard you have to go into the store and they may offer a bare bones selection of separates.

    Good luck as most companies seem to do a 6 drop and if you get lucky somewhere will do an 8 drop.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the advice. Suit is not required, but would love to wear one more often. I guess in the mean time, a nice sweater will do, though I run pretty hot so all this is just for looking nice at the cost of burning up constantly. I will be traveling to philly and Atlanta for a couple of weeks, will definitely check out the jcrew and suitsupply stores.

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      • #4
        Separates for sure. Or try eBay. I searched your size and found pretty slim picings, but this would work http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEORGE-2-PC-...item2351c5075d

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        • #5
          Have you tried on the Crosby yet? I am interested in them as well as I am not really built for the Ludlow, sleeves are way too tight, same problem with the Thompson from JCrew Factory. Don't start buying until you are at a mostly consistent weight (ask me how I know). I have an 8-10 inch drop, and as mentioned the only options are MTM, or separates that I have found.

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          • #6
            Nothing you can do. There's no brands out there that are going to accommodate that drop without major work. Recommend just going with MTM suiting and jackets. I've made some Ludlow jackets work for me, and I've got decently-sized arms, so I'm not sure when people say that the arms are too tight for them, but I'm sure that has to with the size jacket they wear. Regarding the Crosby length, you could always get the jackets shortened? I'm 5'8" and a regular length Ludlow in my size fits me fine in length. 45" chest and 31" waist, at the moment. I need to stop leaning out, my clothing is starting to get too loose for me again.

            Anyways, for anything non-suiting/jacket related, just get used to paying for tailoring. Every time I buy a shirt, sweater, or pair of pants, I just assume that I'm going to pay an extra $15-20 tailoring them if it's OTR.

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            • #7
              Nothing off the rack is going to fit you properly. At 6ft, I wear a 48R jacket and 34W pants. Focus on finding something that fits through the chest and shoulders. A good tailor can work their magic and take care of the rest. It will take some trial and error so be patient. Best of luck!

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              • #8
                Suitsupply 50S.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Crims View Post
                  Suitsupply 50S.
                  Wow, that's exactly what they put me in when I was in the store today. Jacket fit 95% perfectly. Maybe half an inch on sleeves. Pants were ridiculous though, needed like 3 to 4 inches at the waist and another 4-6 need to come off the length. Looking at the website, I noticed that some suits in the blue line don't even have 50s. The one he showed me was the 110s that were for $469. I then went to a JCrew nearby and tried on 46R and 48R (both crosby) since they don't do shorts. It didn't fit as well around the chest/shoulder/arm area. Considering the crosby suit would be at least 700 with the alterations, I think it's kind of a no-brainer at this point.

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                  • #10
                    I'm a 48r 36w, but I'm 6'2". And I'm similarly planning to drop 30lbs (again...) this summer. Well, it's winter for me, since I live in Brazil, but that's irrelevant.

                    A suggestion, as a fellow (frequent) shape-changer: if you're just looking for a once-in-a-while suit, and you're serious about dropping 30+ pounds, which will completely alter the fit of any suit -- go with a cheapie for now, and then once you've hit your goal weight, invest in nicer threads.

                    As [MENTION=4069]JBarwick[/MENTION] suggested, take a look at the well-regarded for their price Stafford wool 100 options from JC Penney--lots of options for colors and fits (including several 50s options). They're constantly on sale for 50%+ off, so if you're patient, you should be able to get into a full suit for <$200 (and often ~$150). Free shipping and returns to your local store, etc, make it pretty easy to experiment. Guessing you'll be happiest with their slim fit, but regular would probably work with some tailoring.

                    Get a few wears out of the decent cheapie while you slim down, then splash out for the finer threads after you get a better sense for your suit style and your new size. Good luck!

                    Originally posted by edmondantes View Post
                    Wow, that's exactly what they put me in when I was in the store today. Jacket fit 95% perfectly. Maybe half an inch on sleeves. Pants were ridiculous though, needed like 3 to 4 inches at the waist and another 4-6 need to come off the length. Looking at the website, I noticed that some suits in the blue line don't even have 50s. The one he showed me was the 110s that were for $469. I then went to a JCrew nearby and tried on 46R and 48R (both crosby) since they don't do shorts. It didn't fit as well around the chest/shoulder/arm area. Considering the crosby suit would be at least 700 with the alterations, I think it's kind of a no-brainer at this point.

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                    • #11
                      If tailoring is required then it doesn't matter if the shirt has less fabric OTR as tailoring cost will be the same regardless. Buy the materials and colours your like and be done with it, just get the shoulders neck and sleeves to fit.

                      Charles Tyrwhitt and TM lewin both have size charts on their websites to help with that.

                      Or you could go the MTM dress shirt route, there's quite a few that have been reviewed on here so give them a look, top of my head, Ratio, Proper Cloth, Luxire, MyTailor etc.

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                      • #12
                        I have no personal exp but Hugh and Crye fits by body type rather than traditional size.

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                        • #13
                          Unfortunately their neck size only goes to 17.5".

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                          • #14
                            As a fellow man of strange proportions, I feel your pain. My chest is a 46L and my pants are 36, and I have an 18.5 inch neck. I've gone two routes. I picked up a great charcoal Calvin Klein at a 3 Day suit Broker, and just had my tailor basically recut the pants for me. It was expensive, but I got a great deal on the suit. I've also used Dragon Inside, a MTM company, and I couldn't be happier with the results. The suit fit me perfect right out of the box, and the communication from the company way exceptional. For shirts, I've had great luck with the Nordstrom Easy Care Trim fit. They stock them in neck sizes that are big enough, and the rest of,the shirt doesn't look like a circus tent. Hope this helps - Mike

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