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Review: Spier & Mackay Medium Gray Suit

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    Review: Spier & Mackay Medium Gray Suit

    I've been meaning to do a review of my Spier & Mackay medium gray suit for a couple weeks, I just dropped it off at the tailor so I don't have fit pics yet but I do have some product shots and wanted to share my opinion on the suit because I know there is a bit of interest in them. The suits are still on sale for my purchase price of $300 USD in most sizes. My most extensive experience with suits is limited to J Crew, Suit Supply, Brooks Brothers 1818, and Benjamin (of these, I still own only the Brooks Brothers), though I've tried on suits and sportcoats by many of the bigger Italian labels. Given the price point in question here, I do not think this is a problem.

    Here is the webpage description:
    The perfect wardrobe staple. Make from a silky and robust Merino 110's. Tailored to perfection with all the details of a suit 3x the price.

    Half-Canvas Construction
    Bemberg Lining
    Apricot Nut Buttons
    2 Button
    Double Vent
    3" Notch Lapel
    Straight Flap Pockets


    Packaging:
    This is not Suit Supply. Your suit will arrive folded up in a small box that's maybe 5x18x12? I don't have the exact dimensions but it's like two shoeboxes side-by-side. There's no hanger but the company does provide a decent, branded garment bag. Sorry I don't have any photos of the unboxing though suffice it to say, there are wrinkles but they will fall out overnight.

    Material and Construction:
    The wool is soft to the touch and very comfortable to wear but you also get the sense that it'll hold up well to weekly use (and the 110's designation theoretically also supports this claim). I'm not sure where the wool is sourced from, there is no mill tag, and compared to some of the fancier fabrics from VBC and Loro Piana and the 150's fabric of the Benjamin suits this material is lacking a "special" feel, but I needed a staple, workhorse suit and for the money I think the material is great. I'd say it's on par with the entry-level Suit Supply Napoli gray/navy suit material. The pick-stitching is subtle.

    The bemberg lining is solid and simple. Nothing fancy or obnoxious, and it's attached well. Buttons are plain. I appreciate that they're not plastic but they're also nothing special. Works for a suit, though. Wish the buttons were attached better/more neatly (there's already some loose threads).

    While my BB 1818 suit has canvassing that feels thick and heavy, almost like a bulletproof vest, this feels lighter and more flexible, like I have more mobility. I would say the half-canvas of this is on par with Suit Supply and other Italian suits I've tried on.

    More:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bcue9mrt3rxvw1/IMAG2905.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lzm2qjqtblfe2i/IMAG2906.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4zequ5jzbospa4/IMAG2907.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9axxumhd1lrr02/IMAG2909.jpg

    Fit:
    Jacket: The shoulders have a gentle slope to them that on my body gives them a softer appearance. Much better than the shoulders of any other OTR suit I've tried in the $300-$1000 range, comparable to the Suit Supply Havana jacket. The OTR jacket is cut with a slim, but classically masculine silhouette. Lapels have a traditional width and the gorge isn't too high or low. Jacket has a traditional length. I actually don't need to have any tailoring done to the chest or waist, it fits me that well. So I would say the suit fits TTS. I didn't check the inside pockets to see if they would fit my phone, as someone on Styleforum pointed out.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/yv1twjfse5cmuu9/IMAG2901.jpg

    In fact, the only changes I need to make to the jacket are cleaning up the back a little bit and extending the sleeves. The sleeves are probably my biggest issue with the jacket. They're 24.6" from shoulder to cuff, I need to take them out another half-inch. I would prefer that Spier & Mackay either not put any decorative stitching around the buttons so they're easier to move, or just provide the buttons separately so that we can let a tailor attach them after adjusting the sleeve length. At least they're nonfunctioning. (Maybe it's my fault, I've been told I have monkey-long arms for a 5'9" 158lb guy...I also find Spier & Mackay's slim-fit 15.5 neck shirts to have just barely long enough sleeves, they're 34.5, I need 35). Unlike S&M's slim-fit shirtsleeves, the suit sleeves aren't super-narrow, they're appropriately shaped and sized.


    Pants: Didn't measure the rise but I'd say these are a medium rise. Flat front. They are lined and there's about 3" to let out. The pants are slim. Almost too slim for the jacket. According to Rick these are as slim as their slim-fit wool trousers. And I hope he doesn't mind me sharing but I was told that come this fall the slim-fit pants will be relabeled as contemporary and they will introduce a new, slimmer pant (wow). I prefer pants, especially suit pants, to be a little looser below the knee. Can't let them out below the knee and I'd really like to. That being said, I'm having them cuffed to 1.75" and I hope that'll help with the drape.


    https://www.dropbox.com/s/1v6l0ho784ohsoa/IMAG2910.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ql6xu6fza434evh/IMAG2912.jpg

    Summary:
    You can't beat the suit for it's current sale price. It doesn't have the bells and whistles of Suit Supply or the full-canvassing of Benjamin but if you need a staple suit on a budget, with a traditional, masculine cut and good shoulders, you should strongly consider Spier & Mackay. At full-retail, it's not a definite buy but if you're looking at SS you'd be doing yourself a disservice by not also considering Spier & Mackay. I'm looking forward to the new fabrics and designs being released this fall, and also to the solid navy suit I ordered from them after being so impressed by the fit and quality of this one!

    #2
    I would buy this suit but they don't offer a long size. at 6'2" I can't do a regular. Thanks for the review!

    Comment


      #3
      [MENTION=2492]LosRockets[/MENTION] - It sounds like you might have owned Suit Supply and Benjamin suits, but got rid of then in favor of your BB. If that's true, I'm just curious as to why?

      Thanks for the review. I'm definitely intrigued by this company given everything I've read about them recently.

      Comment


        #4
        [MENTION=2492]LosRockets[/MENTION], can you provide overall measurements for a size 38? Especially cuff opening since the pants seem to be the only hang up. Great review.

        Comment


          #5
          @Jamie: As soon as I get the suit back I can provide my own measurements but those listed on the website are as follows for a size 38:
          Chest: 41.7
          Waist: 37
          Shoulder: 17.5
          Sleeve: 24.6
          Length: 29.2

          Pants (sz 32):
          Waist: 33.5
          Thigh: 25.3
          Hem Opening: 15.8 (so 7.9)
          Front Rise: 10.1
          Inseam: 36.0 unhemed

          The 34 is 0.7 bigger in the thigh and 0.2 in the hem opening, I wish these pants had those measurements but as it stands they fit like my tailored J Crew Bowery pants, just a bit tighter at the hem.


          Compare to a SS Napoli 38R measurements:
          Shoulder: 18.6
          Chest: 42.7
          Upper Waist: 37.4
          Sleeve: 33.6
          Length: 29.9
          Pants Waist: 33.9
          Hem Opening: 7.7 (15.4)

          and Havana 38R:
          Shoulder: 17.7
          Chest: 41.7
          Upper Waist: 37.4
          Sleeve: 33.7
          Length: 29.5
          Pants Waist: 33.9
          Hem Opening: 7.7
          Last edited by LosRockets; August 3, 2014, 12:40 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by redbeardedmike View Post
            @LosRockets - It sounds like you might have owned Suit Supply and Benjamin suits, but got rid of then in favor of your BB. If that's true, I'm just curious as to why?

            Thanks for the review. I'm definitely intrigued by this company given everything I've read about them recently.
            I briefly owned a Benjamin suit (previous generation, not the Classico II) that I bought from a fellow forum member but sold it because the sleeves were too short for me even w/ tailoring. I've never owned a SS suit for an extended time either, but I've tried on several in store. The suits I ordered from the outlet were a bit funky for someone like me who needed basics. I've spent a lot of time at the SS store though :P

            The BB is the suit I purchased right when I got into dressing better. I didn't realize at the time I should look for something more versatile since I didn't have a basic gray or navy suit yet. I stuck to it because it's been tailored to fit me well and maybe some sentimental value, but I've listed it for sale now. If I was able to find a Suit Supply Napoli for $399 I probably would have sold the BB long ago in favor of a solid, business-appropriate Napoli cut. This Spier & Mackay IMO actually fits me a lot better than the Napoli.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by LosRockets View Post
              I've been meaning to do a review of my Spier & Mackay medium gray suit for a couple weeks, I just dropped it off at the tailor so I don't have fit pics yet but I do have some product shots and wanted to share my opinion on the suit because I know there is a bit of interest in them. The suits are still on sale for my purchase price of $300 USD in most sizes. My most extensive experience with suits is limited to J Crew, Suit Supply, Brooks Brothers 1818, and Benjamin (of these, I still own only the Brooks Brothers), though I've tried on suits and sportcoats by many of the bigger Italian labels. Given the price point in question here, I do not think this is a problem.

              Here is the webpage description:
              The perfect wardrobe staple. Make from a silky and robust Merino 110's. Tailored to perfection with all the details of a suit 3x the price.

              Half-Canvas Construction
              Bemberg Lining
              Apricot Nut Buttons
              2 Button
              Double Vent
              3" Notch Lapel
              Straight Flap Pockets


              Packaging:
              This is not Suit Supply. Your suit will arrive folded up in a small box that's maybe 5x18x12? I don't have the exact dimensions but it's like two shoeboxes side-by-side. There's no hanger but the company does provide a decent, branded garment bag. Sorry I don't have any photos of the unboxing though suffice it to say, there are wrinkles but they will fall out overnight.

              Material and Construction:
              The wool is soft to the touch and very comfortable to wear but you also get the sense that it'll hold up well to weekly use (and the 110's designation theoretically also supports this claim). I'm not sure where the wool is sourced from, there is no mill tag, and compared to some of the fancier fabrics from VBC and Loro Piana and the 150's fabric of the Benjamin suits this material is lacking a "special" feel, but I needed a staple, workhorse suit and for the money I think the material is great. I'd say it's on par with the entry-level Suit Supply Napoli gray/navy suit material. The pick-stitching is subtle.

              The bemberg lining is solid and simple. Nothing fancy or obnoxious, and it's attached well. Buttons are plain. I appreciate that they're not plastic but they're also nothing special. Works for a suit, though. Wish the buttons were attached better/more neatly (there's already some loose threads).

              While my BB 1818 suit has canvassing that feels thick and heavy, almost like a bulletproof vest, this feels lighter and more flexible, like I have more mobility. I would say the half-canvas of this is on par with Suit Supply and other Italian suits I've tried on.

              More:
              https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bcue9mrt3rxvw1/IMAG2905.jpg
              https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lzm2qjqtblfe2i/IMAG2906.jpg
              https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4zequ5jzbospa4/IMAG2907.jpg
              https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9axxumhd1lrr02/IMAG2909.jpg

              Fit:
              Jacket: The shoulders have a gentle slope to them that on my body gives them a softer appearance. Much better than the shoulders of any other OTR suit I've tried in the $300-$1000 range, comparable to the Suit Supply Havana jacket. The OTR jacket is cut with a slim, but classically masculine silhouette. Lapels have a traditional width and the gorge isn't too high or low. Jacket has a traditional length. I actually don't need to have any tailoring done to the chest or waist, it fits me that well. So I would say the suit fits TTS. I didn't check the inside pockets to see if they would fit my phone, as someone on Styleforum pointed out.

              https://www.dropbox.com/s/yv1twjfse5cmuu9/IMAG2901.jpg

              In fact, the only changes I need to make to the jacket are cleaning up the back a little bit and extending the sleeves. The sleeves are probably my biggest issue with the jacket. They're 24.6" from shoulder to cuff, I need to take them out another half-inch. I would prefer that Spier & Mackay either not put any decorative stitching around the buttons so they're easier to move, or just provide the buttons separately so that we can let a tailor attach them after adjusting the sleeve length. At least they're nonfunctioning. (Maybe it's my fault, I've been told I have monkey-long arms for a 5'9" 158lb guy...I also find Spier & Mackay's slim-fit 15.5 neck shirts to have just barely long enough sleeves, they're 34.5, I need 35). Unlike S&M's slim-fit shirtsleeves, the suit sleeves aren't super-narrow, they're appropriately shaped and sized.


              Pants: Didn't measure the rise but I'd say these are a medium rise. Flat front. They are lined and there's about 3" to let out. The pants are slim. Almost too slim for the jacket. According to Rick these are as slim as their slim-fit wool trousers. And I hope he doesn't mind me sharing but I was told that come this fall the slim-fit pants will be relabeled as contemporary and they will introduce a new, slimmer pant (wow). I prefer pants, especially suit pants, to be a little looser below the knee. Can't let them out below the knee and I'd really like to. That being said, I'm having them cuffed to 1.75" and I hope that'll help with the drape.


              https://www.dropbox.com/s/1v6l0ho784ohsoa/IMAG2910.jpg
              https://www.dropbox.com/s/ql6xu6fza434evh/IMAG2912.jpg

              Summary:
              You can't beat the suit for it's current sale price. It doesn't have the bells and whistles of Suit Supply or the full-canvassing of Benjamin but if you need a staple suit on a budget, with a traditional, masculine cut and good shoulders, you should strongly consider Spier & Mackay. At full-retail, it's not a definite buy but if you're looking at SS you'd be doing yourself a disservice by not also considering Spier & Mackay. I'm looking forward to the new fabrics and designs being released this fall, and also to the solid navy suit I ordered from them after being so impressed by the fit and quality of this one!

              Thanks for the positive words! Just to repeat what I said on SF, This was our first foray into OTR suits, and we tried to be as thorough as possible in getting a right fit and great quality construction. The fabric used for the core suits was indeed selected because of the workhorse properties. It preforms very well and will not develop any significant wrinkles throughout the day. There will be some definite improvements as we move forward. For example, a lot of the new suits will be coming with genuine horn buttons, which have a beautiful natural texture and properties that lend themselves to a luxury product.
              We have discussed the button shank with the factory already.

              We feel for the price, they really isn't anything on the market that compares. 100% Australian Merino Wool, Half-Canvas, Bemberg Lining, Nut Buttons for under $400 CAD. To compare, I believe Benjamin suits are $525 US and Suitsupply clocks in at $469 at the starting level. From here we are only looking at getting better, offering a larger range and introducing new fits.

              These pants will remain as the slim fit, and we will be releasing a contemporary fit, which is larger through the seat and thigh by nearly an inch.

              Cheers,
              Rick

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by zcm View Post
                I would buy this suit but they don't offer a long size. at 6'2" I can't do a regular. Thanks for the review!
                We will be rolling out an MTO program in Sept. in that you can order Short and Tall sizes as well as sizes we don't stock such as 32 or 48 and 50.

                Best,
                Rick

                Comment


                  #9
                  Good to know about the pants, for guys like me with big fat thighs.

                  Do you plan on expanding your brick and mortar stores outside of the Toronto area at all? Say, purely hypothetically, Windsor?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Domino View Post
                    Good to know about the pants, for guys like me with big fat thighs.

                    Do you plan on expanding your brick and mortar stores outside of the Toronto area at all? Say, purely hypothetically, Windsor?
                    We are actually in Mississauga. And that too is just the front of the warehouse/office. We are planning our first proper store in Downtown Toronto within the next 6-8 months and depending on how things go, expand out from there.

                    Unfortunately, Windsor isn't even on our radar at the moment. Baby steps for now.

                    Comment

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