Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Jacket and Shirt sleeves

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Jacket and Shirt sleeves

    Perhaps I am just uninformed, or my choice in tailor is that terrible...

    I cannot seem to get a balance between jacket & shirt sleeve lengths so that just a bit of my shirt cuff peeks, without the shirt sleeve creeping out too far as I move around--a la Mexico's coach during the World Cup



    It's probably a pipe-dream, but Daniel Craig's suiting in the Bond films is the ideal set-up.



    Is it a mixture of the sleeves' diameters? a shoulder padding issue? What do I need to know for when I purchase my next suit?

    Thanks in advance

    #2
    When you're relaxed (arms on your side), the cuffs of the shirt sit at the right position because of either: the sleeves are short enough, or the cuffs are narrow enough.

    In your case, I suspect you have extra length on your sleeves, that when you do the mexican coach pose, the suit sleeves are pulled, but not your shirt sleeves.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 3piece View Post
      In your case, I suspect you have extra length on your sleeves, that when you do the mexican coach pose, the suit sleeves are pulled, but not your shirt sleeves.
      I suspect it's this. I've two shirts that are identical except for sleeve length--one is a 35, the other a 36. It's only a one-inch different, but I always get Mexican-soccer arms (new term?) when I wear the 36. No problems at all with the 35.

      Comment


        #4
        Usually, my shirt sleeves stick out .5 - .75 inches when I am relaxed.

        But when I'm giving the Sieg Heil salute, more of the shirt sticks out, which is fine.

        Comment


          #5
          Let them stick out a little. As long as you don't have mexican soccer arms while standing or shaking hands you are fine. Don't think too much about it.

          Comment


            #6
            I imagine that part of that is the coach being outrageously exuberant, and Bond is not.

            Comment


              #7
              So should the shirt sleeve move with the jacket to keep that appearance?

              To make sure you get right length do you tailor your sleeves with a straight arm, relaxed arm, or bent arm?

              Comment


                #8
                And does structure of the shoulder play in to this at all? 007 jackets all seem to have minimal padding in the shoulder to accentuate the shape his physique already has

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by tairby View Post
                  And does structure of the shoulder play in to this at all? 007 jackets all seem to have minimal padding in the shoulder to accentuate the shape his physique already has
                  Tom Ford jackets usually have more structured shoulders, not less.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tairby View Post
                    Is it a mixture of the sleeves' diameters? a shoulder padding issue? What do I need to know for when I purchase my next suit?
                    Your answer lies in the armhole of the suit jacket. If the jacket armhole is lower than the shirt armhole (as in most cases it is), the jacket arm has less freedom of movement, so the jacket sleeves ride up when the arm is moved vertically. The shirt sleeves don't pull back as much because the shirt has higher armholes.

                    Look for a suit with a high armhole. The armpit of the suit should hug in under your own armpit. It makes it more difficult to put the suit on or take it off, but it gives the arms more range of motion. The sleeves won't ride up as much, and the sides of the jacket will stay closer to your body as you moves your arms.

                    See the 2nd and 3rd paragraphs of this post: http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=4671

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Most importantly, you have to start with both jacket and shirt fitting you correctly. The shirt sleeve has to be long enough naturally that only the required amount is showing when the jacket is worn and both are at rest at your sides. Too often, men will wear sleeves too long, even though, with the button on the cuff closed, will "rest" in the correct position. The extra slack is distributed up the sleeve, most notably in the forearm. In this case, the jacket is retracting up the the arm, but the sleeve, because of the extra length/slack, does not.

                      So. #1, sleeve has to be the proper length. Not long, not short.

                      The jacket, as mentioned above, must have a higher cut armhole to allow for greater freedom of movement. That said, the jacket will almost always retract further up the arm compared to the shirt, but not to the extant of showing the entire cuff.

                      #2, jacket sleeve and armhole must be cut and fit correctly as well as to have the jacket and shirt move in harmony.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X