Ask a quick question, get an answer

[Alex1]

Why does SuitSupply advertise some of their jackets as having the hand pleated shoulder? What exactly does pleating the shoulder do? Does it create a higher/tighter armhole?

I think you are referring to "spalla camicia," which is Italian for "shirt shoulder." This type of shoulder is traditionally found on some Neapolitan jackets, which are often tighter fitting. The pleated shoulder provides a little more freedom of movement according to the following website:

http://www.bespokenn.com/post/527764...politan-jacket

[coppertone]

Great article! That just explained so much. Thank you, sir!

[Julio P.]

Has anyone purchased the J.Crew Factory Thompson blazer in glen plaid?

How is the fit compared to a typical Ludlow? Thoughts on the fabric?

[colby]

Anyone played with the Target Mossimo blazers? I know the navy one (the Kensington?) got some love on here a few years back, but I wonder if they changed anything, or how some of the ones in more wintry textures stack up. Any opinions?

[JBarwick]

Anyone played with the Target Mossimo blazers? I know the navy one (the Kensington?) got some love on here a few years back, but I wonder if they changed anything, or how some of the ones in more wintry textures stack up. Any opinions?

The last time I looked at one was maybe a year ago and was "tweed" it had no shape and low arm holes. I would try to check whatever you are looking at in person as things can vary quite a bit within one brand at the lower end of the pricing spectrum.

[MileHighNole]

Has anyone had any experience with both the Thinsulate and non-Thinsulate ("Regular") J. Crew top-coats? Is there a notable difference that's worth the extra cost to get the Thinsulate versions? Thanks.

[Pepetito]

Can anyone comment on the sizing between the slim lambswool sweaters for Jcrew and JCF? Or pretty similar?

[JaimeGarcia]

Name this style:
Does anyone know what on earth this style of shoe is called? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...Q5TZA3R4RR3JBQ
I've been seeing a handful of them lately on sites like MyHabit from oddball fashion brands I'd never heard of. I've been referring to them in my own head as "afterthought uppers." It really looks for all the world like someone made an oxford and went, "Dammit, I meant to make a boot. Maybe if I just take on some extra material nobody will notice."

[ianr]

Name this style:
Does anyone know what on earth this style of shoe is called? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...Q5TZA3R4RR3JBQ
I've been seeing a handful of them lately on sites like MyHabit from oddball fashion brands I'd never heard of. I've been referring to them in my own head as "afterthought uppers." It really looks for all the world like someone made an oxford and went, "Dammit, I meant to make a boot. Maybe if I just take on some extra material nobody will notice."

What do you mean? It's a chukka, blucher boot with broguing and a stitching pattern on the upper. The color is terrible imho.

To be more precise, it looks like the designer took boot styles, loaded them into an app, pressed the "I feel lucky" button and manufactured them.

[BillN]

Name this style:
Does anyone know what on earth this style of shoe is called? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...Q5TZA3R4RR3JBQ"

A really ugly one?

[Matchbook]

Name this style:
Does anyone know what on earth this style of shoe is called? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...Q5TZA3R4RR3JBQ
I've been seeing a handful of them lately on sites like MyHabit from oddball fashion brands I'd never heard of. I've been referring to them in my own head as "afterthought uppers." It really looks for all the world like someone made an oxford and went, "Dammit, I meant to make a boot. Maybe if I just take on some extra material nobody will notice."

It looks like a semi-brogue boot without the broguing on the eyelet tab/quarter. And they're incredibly ugly.

On that note, who wants to take the plunge on these? Good lord. I can't believe there's a market for clothing this terrible and expensive. Scratch that, there's a lot of rich foreign gentlemen here in LA who dress like they shop here...Ugh.

[JaimeGarcia]

What do you mean?

Perhaps I should have been more specific, and I've been looking for a better example of the style but they seem to only exist on MyHabit and other such mailing list driven fashion sites. There seems to be a trend of taking the form of an oxford, then grafting an upper onto it without making any attempt to make it a cohesive form. It just looks like an oxford with more on top. I figured there was a specific name for it, but perhaps not.

[Alpha King]

I bought 2 blazers from Lands End and they are just slightly tight at the back, like when I reach forward the material is stretched out almost to the limit. I can get through my day but it's a slight annoyance. an extra half inch or so would be perfect. Can this be done with tailoring or is this one of those dimensions you are stuck with? Their slim or modern fit or whatever they call it is a step in the right direction, but they need to suppress the waist more (it is pretty full) and the chest/shoulders less.

[Alex1]

I bought 2 blazers from Lands End and they are just slightly tight at the back, like when I reach forward the material is stretched out almost to the limit.

Modifying the shoulders is very difficult and expensive. Waist suppression is routine though. You may already know, but blazers are close fitting and won't give you the same mobility as a t-shirt. Do you unbutton the jacket when you sit down and/or move your arms around? If you still have problems, then you need to size up. There are a number of tests to make sure a blazer fits in the shoulders. Take a look at these for example:

http://dappered.com/2013/05/5-clothi...y-should-know/

[Alpha King]

Modifying the shoulders is very difficult and expensive. Waist suppression is routine though. You may already know, but blazers are close fitting and won't give you the same mobility as a t-shirt. Do you unbutton the jacket when you sit down and/or move your arms around? If you still have problems, then you need to size up. There are a number of tests to make sure a blazer fits in the shoulders. Take a look at these for example:

http://dappered.com/2013/05/5-clothi...y-should-know/

that's what i thought, thanks for the answer. I have 4-5 suits in 42L and 3-4 blazers and they all allow enough movement at the shoulders. The LE jackets just seem to run narrower at the shoulder.