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    @greg_s, if you're near a size 32, the leg width on the 505s and 501s are very near the 514s. The 501s taper more, IMO, than either of them. You'll just need to figure out if the 1" higher rise is a problem for you.


    Personally, I need the higher rise due to what my wife calls "donk".


    TMI, sorry.

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      Bulldoggery - If I normally wear a 32/30 in dress pants and chinos and everything else and had issues with 514's being too tight, should I get the USA made 505 raw jeans in 32/32 or 34/32? They don't have any with a 30 inseam so . . .

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        Thanks for writing all that out, bulldog. Much appreciated. Got the 505s. Love the made in NC aspect.

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          Glen, it sounds like you are a man after my own heart, style-wise. It gives me unreasonably great joy to see that you've picked up on my tastes and remembered some of my other posts!


          I would appreciate any heads-ups you can give on deals in this particular corner of the style arena, and I'll certainly return the favor if I find anything outstanding...I'm only recently coming around to this stuff, which means I'm in the midst of an explosion of wardrobe-building. My current holy grail is one of those two boots in brown or cherry-ish in a size 9...I'm trying to hold off on a purchase until I stumble across one of them for less than standard retail, but my self-restraint is waning.


          Do I recall correctly that you're also in/around Atlanta, or am I thinking of someone else?

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            No problem, BB. I do psychological testing and write reports for a living. Partly as a result of that, I tend to be overly verbose online...and that post was no exception. Glad to hear it was helpful!




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              I appreciate the length, and I am sure others do too. It's great to get that much information from someone who knows what they are doing!

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                greg_s --


                That is indeed a shame. Levi's does (or at least did) sell Made in the U.S.A. 514s, but I haven't seen them around much in the past six months or so. Who knows what the reasons are for that...my best guess is that the 511s have become their best "alternative slim-fit" seller in the past year, and they've probably taken away a substantial portion of the 514s' market share.


                I wore 514s almost exclusively for a few years before taking what I felt was a big risk with a cheap pair of 511s. After bearing with some mildly unflattering, uncomfortably skinny jeans for about a week per pair, I don't know that I'll go back to something looser for the foreseeable future. That said, I still have one pair of 514s that I'll wear under certain circumstances until they disintegrate.


                A quick glance at the Levi's site reveals that the Made in the U.S.A. 514s (which were on sale there for a fine price -- about $70 -- until maybe two weeks ago) are no longer around...I'll do some digging and see if I can turn up a stockpile of them somewhere. Surely they're not TOTALLY extinct this soon.

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                  Bulldoggery - any advice for me on my post above? I was thinking of getting the 34 instead of 32 because I thought maybe they'd be a bit looser in the thigh area due to the larger waist size. Also, in the pic, it says the model has a 30" waist but is wearing a size 34 jean.

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                    @bulldoggery, I'm afraid you have me mixed up with someone else. I live in central California.


                    9D in boots? Your normal shoe size must be 8.5D, then. I'll keep a look out.


                    @Vicious49, if I may butt-in... 32x32 will be a little snug but denim stretches out. You'll have to hem or cuff them as well.

                    Also, those model stats are so screwed up. There's no way he's a size 30 and wearing a size 34. The pants aren't lying (tag reads 34). So, I call BS on the model's waist.

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                      Glen - but above you said to buy the 501s long and when you wash them, they'll shrink. Wouldn't the same be true for the 505 in that once I wash them, they should shrink so I shouldn't need to hem?

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                        @Vicious49, only the 501s are shrink-to-fit. The 505s are sanforized (pre-shrunk). They'll still shrink a little, but nowhere near the same degree as the 501s. For sanforized denim, my experience is that they stretch more than they shrink.


                        Also, this is when a forum chat window would be AWESOME... *coughPAULcough*

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                          THanks for the info glen. Maybe I'll give the 32/32 505s a shot then.

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                            I think Glen is absolutely right, Vicious. The 505 "template" is marginally narrower through the leg than the (non-shrink-to-fit) 501s, but the top block is essentially identical. That said -- and I know I sound like a broken record on this -- bear in mind that from color to color/factory to factory, different 505s may fit somewhat differently from one another, so try on as many pairs as you have time for (even some in colors you're not interested in, just for the purpose of comparison) before buying.


                            And the sizing/model information on HauteLook's Levi's Made in the U.S.A. stuff is all kinds of wrong. I can't even guess at where they got the measurements on those listings. Almost all Levi's Made in the U.S.A. stuff can be relied upon to fit true-to-size, though, so disregard what they claim their model's measurements are and go with what you know.


                            The best rule of thumb I know for how to pick out well-fitting jeans is that if you can zip and button them, and they're snug enough that that top button is initially a mild challenge to fasten (but not painful), that's the waist size you're looking for.


                            Denim -- especially sanforized denim -- stretches gradually, but it retains more stability after stretching than any other cotton-based fabric around. The idea is to start with a fit that's a bit more snug than you want, wear them around the house as often as possible (really, as constantly as you can) for about a week, and then reassess the fit. Chances are, by the end of that break-in period, they'll fit nicely, and after another week or two, they'll fit better than any other pair of pants you've ever owned.


                            When it's time for their first wash -- ideally, not for a whole lot of wears -- if you want to retain a crisp, dark finish, there are methods to help with that. They don't involve a washing machine:


                            http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/03/how-to-wash-and-clean-your-raw-denim-tips-instructions-video/


                            On a decidedly different note, Glen, I'm a 9.5 in Nikes, a 9.0C in most dress shoes, and a 9D in most of the hiking boots I've owned (occasionally a 9.5). If I can ever obtain 1000 Mile Boots or Iron Rangers, I won't be wearing unusually heavy socks with them; after a good bit of asking around (here and elsewhere), I've reached the conclusion that a 9.0 would probably be right for me. My biggest problem is an oddly narrow heel...it makes buying dress shoes especially difficult.

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                              @Bulldoggery, if you bite the bullet and buy a pair of Iron Rangers you will never regret it and never look back. I can almost guarantee that. They are damn near indestructible and have incredible leather quality. 3 years in, I can burnish out nearly all marks just with my thumb. A little mink oil and they look incredibly rich.


                              Also, thank you for all of this info. Very helpful, but presented in such a way that isn't off-putting as some "denim-heads" can be.

                              "You don't need money to dress better than you do" - Salvatore Romano

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                                @Bulldoggery, thanks. It seemed like a good deal to me, but you have done a lot more research into them.

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