Raw Denim

(34 posts) (10 voices)

Started 3 months ago by Cannon
Latest reply from nftmlk

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Cannon
Member

Anyone have experience with raw denim? I was always curious about how you choose the initial size? With all the pre-shrunk, soak on first wear, never ever soak, wash after six months, I just don't get how you know what size to choose.

Anyone here involved in raw denim or also curious about getting into it?

A couple starter guides:
http://www.denimblog.com/c/forum/thread/148896/raw-denim-guide-411-start-here
http://www.denimblog.com/c/forum/thread/146890/where-to-buy-raw-dry-denim
http://www.squidoo.com/how-to-wash-your-raw-denim-jeans
http://www.authenticforum.com/dry-denim/48506-authentic-forum-dry-denim-introductory-guide.html
http://www.authenticforum.com/dry-denim/143-dry-denim-faqs-tips-tricks.html

Posted 3 months ago #
Jason Carreira
Member

I dunno... I got some raw selvage jeans from Gap this fall on one of their 40% off sales for like $50. I just got my normal size and they fit fine. I love the way the fabric feels, cool to the touch and very stiff. I haven't washed them yet and they're doing fine.

I'm not gonna go spend $200 for fancy jeans though.

Posted 3 months ago #
frost
Member

I've wanted to pick up a pair of gap selvage for little bit now.. waiting for a sale.

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

Well selvedge and raw aren't particularly linked. Raw can often not be selvedge and vice versa. I suppose it is also fairly common for them to be paired as well though.

My issue is that people say they tend to shrink when contacting water and then loosen considerably after multiple wears, making it confusing for me to understand what size to start at. Some say size down because it will loosen a lot, others say size up because it will lose a lot when it gets soaked.

Still confused about it but thanks guys.

Posted 3 months ago #
prophetx2
Member

I just bought my first pair of Naked & Famous Weird Guys a few weeks ago and they are amazing. I've gotten more compliments in those jeans than any Levi's that I've ever worn (including 514's).

With all denim, you should size down because they will stretch. You're best bet is to go actually try whatever pair your interested on. If they are tough to button up then that's likely the pair you want. Some like it even to the point where they can not button the jeans all the way up (most of the brands don't use zippers).

In either case, from my personal experience...all denim stretches. I have 3 pairs of denim and the only one that fits is the N&F pair because I actually sized down 1 where as I typically just buy my normal size. My 514's that used to fit so well are now fairly baggy..

Posted 3 months ago #
nicholascrawford
Member

In lieu of starting a new thread, I'll ask here: is it a faux pas to roll the cuff on any jeans besides selvedge? It seems to be, but I don't have any and still want to roll the cuff sometimes. It's as if the point of rolling them is to show the selvedge edge.

Posted 3 months ago #
Rodney Dean
Member

My sizing advice is this: Buy a couple of inches longer but the right waist. This works if you do your initial wash in the tub (look it up) and then wear them as they dry. Your body will keep the waist from shrinking and I think you get a better overall fit, esp. with something some 501s which are cut pretty full.

Oh, and roll up whatever you want. Anybody that would actually snob out on you about non-selvedge is a turd.

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

You can roll any jeans up, it is just more common in selvedge because it is considered decorative and is a visible seam trait, though these days it does not necessarily mean quality.

Posted 3 months ago #
taebubu
Member

If you're looking for a slimmer look, I would say go up two in the length and size down 1 in the waist. Put them in the bath tub inside out for 30 minutes in luke warm water (so they don't over shrink and to preserve the indigo in super hot water). Hang them to dry. Once they are moist, but not soaking slip them on and do whatever it takes to button them (i.e. blow every single bit of air out of your lungs and suck in your abdomen like your life depends on it). Once you're all buttoned up you can relax. They will stretch out. After a little bit feel free to hang them up again to finish drying. If you're really scared that they will keep shrinking beyond your hip size put them on every couple of hours until fully dry in the waist. They will fit better (won't suffocate you/your member) after soaking then when you purchased them.

Also, DO NOT BEND YOUR KNEES. Otherwise you will end up with horrid knee bulge. This is less of an issue with higher quality denim, but regardless, don't put them on and do squats or anything that will stretch the knee out. Obviously when they are fully dry you can go nuts and it won't matter. Sorry this got to be a bit long, but I wish I would've known everything above when I got my first pair. Hope this helps someone out!

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

^Thanks to all the above posts guys.

Posted 3 months ago #
@damenefreghista
Member

I don't know much about denim, but I bought a pair of Lee 101s like 6 months ago, sized down and everything. But they never stretched out. They're massively tight. I wore them at least 15 times and they still feel virginal. My APCs shrunk back when I got those like 2 years ago, and those did stretch out. A shame since I got them in my size and now they fit me big. But these suckers don't seem to stretch. I'm thinking maybe N&F or RRL might be a better option next time.

Posted 3 months ago #
taebubu
Member

I probably should have included that my experience is limited to Levi's 501 shrink-to-fit jeans.

Posted 3 months ago #
nftmlk
Member

It really depends on what brand you're buying. I'd look into various forums for guidance.

http://hypebeast.com/forums/denim/
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/
http://authenticforum.com/

are all some good places to do some reading. Brand sizes vary so by reading other people's experiences and looking at various fits, you can see what will work for you.

For example, I have a pair of Uniqlo MIJ Raws that I bought pretty much TTS @ sz 29/32. I bought a pair of APC New Standards awhile back and had to get sz 26 because they are notorious for stretching a ton -- 3 sizes if you're looking for a skinnier fit.

Read up and have fun with it! Raw jeans are the best, most comfortable, personalized pair you could ever own.

Posted 3 months ago #
nftmlk
Member

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these are the uniqlos at my 1 year 7 months mark. one soak. no washes

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

@nftmlk Those look great.

Thanks for the posts everyone. May jump on this soon.

Posted 3 months ago #
pratyk
Member

Damn.. A year and then some without a wash?!

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

@pratyk Denim doesn't hold particles very well, which is a part of why Indigo fades from jeans faster than most dyes fade from other materials. It also has to do with Indigo often being considered a poor dye. Not washing them isn't as scary as it sounds and it the norm with Raw denim.

With this comes the fact that jeans hold relatively little unhealthy bacteria compared to other fabrics. Thus, it is widely acceptable amongst raw enthusiasts, including the guys at J. Crew, to go without washing for long periods in order to give longer life to the dyes and their character in the jeans. Simple methods like putting the jeans in a bag in the freezer or for some Febreeze, can maintain enough cleanliness and remove odor.

A study found that jeans after just a couple weeks had the same amount of unhealthy bacteria as the jeans after 15 months of wear.

Posted 3 months ago #
nftmlk
Member

@pratyk wearing raw denim for as long as you can without washing is how the jeans develops character, just like how leather does over time. the jeans will fade with how you wear them and stretch out in all the right places, easily becoming the most comfortable and unique pair you own.

waiting to wash is also how you get high contrast fades. soaking is to keep the denim fibers strong, as dirt and sweat can break them down over time.

i've never had to put my jeans in the freezer of febreeze them. i don't really have body odor.

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

@nftmlk so you can soak them any time and it won't interrupt the development of the fades and wrinkles? But washing actually will?

Here's the J. Crew guys' comments on their experience/appreciation of trying raw denim: http://www.jcrew.com/AST/Navigation/dirtylaundry.jsp

Posted 3 months ago #
nftmlk
Member

@cannon - they will fade a bit when you soak so i recommend waiting until you think they're getting pretty dirty. as i mentioned, sweat and dirt break down the fibers in the jeans so soaking helps get rid of some of that dirt and other crap. when the fibers are weak, you can feel how thin the denim feels, and it's more likely to rip/tear.

Posted 3 months ago #
nftmlk
Member

some say 6 months until your first soak, others 12 months. there is no real time period..

at the end of the day, remember.. they're just jeans :) WEAR THEM!

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

@nftmlk wait... no initial soak when you get them like some suggested above? Or do the initial soak and then wear for 6 months before another soak?

Posted 3 months ago #
nftmlk
Member

depends on the pair of raw you're buying. if they're sanforized, there's no need to do a pre-soak b/c they're preshrunk. they're good to go right away.

if they're un-sanforized, you'll want to do a presoak to get most of the shrinking before wearing them.

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

@nftmlk that's what I thought originally but wasn't sure. Thanks. Any brands you recommend, in both the beginners and advanced category of raw wearers?

Posted 3 months ago #
nicholascrawford
Member

My selvedge wearing buddy suggests these:

"jean shop, agave, baldwin, apc. these are among my favorites. i have a friend that wears naked and famous...loves them. also nudie is pretty good, i just think they're too popular"

Posted 3 months ago #
nftmlk
Member

depends on how much you're looking to spend, really.

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

Definitely heard of Nudie and APC. I guess for a starter pair I would want under $100 and then for a follow up when I cam more confident in the process and that I won't ruin them with shrinking or have the wrong size, more than $100.

Posted 3 months ago #
nicholascrawford
Member

Speaking of...Jack Threads is throwing an 80% off sale on denim. But only a couple selvedge options.

http://www.jackthreads.com/sales/5075?i=nicholascrawford

Affiliate link, natch.

Posted 3 months ago #
Cannon
Member

Well FYI selvedge and raw aren't the same feature so be aware of that when shopping around. Selvedge is a seam characteristic, raw is a wash characteristic. They are not exclusively paired and selvedge is making its way into more and more regular washed jeans.

Posted 3 months ago #
nicholascrawford
Member

I'm not very familiar with the terminology, but if I were to spend a lot, I'd want the selvedge. Something cool about the history of it and the low-tech weaving process.

Posted 3 months ago #

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