Help with first suit?

(19 posts) (11 voices)

Started 3 months ago by Jake
Latest reply from Big_Scooter

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Jake
Member

Hey, this is my first post in here, been reading Dappered for a few months now, and going to a good business school next year (for undergraduate), I've realized that I finally need a decent suit...
Unfortunately, I am on a limited budget, and am still growing somewhat. I need what is essentially a temporary suit. I am also incredibly thin, 5'10 and 120 pounds, and don't want to be drowning in fabric.

If there are any suggestions that you guys could make, I would really appreciate it.

I've been looking at some of the suits at Macy's, but unfortunately, most of the brick and mortar Macy's around me have terrible selection. Online, the CK Body line and Alfani suits have stood out somewhat.

http://www1.macys.com/shop/product/calvin-klein-body-slim-fit-blazer-calvin-klein-pants?ID=556921&CategoryID=17788#fn=PRICE%3D100.0|249.99%26SUIT_FIT%3DSlim Fit%26sp%3D1%26spc%3D31%26ruleId%3D66%26slotId%3D1

http://www1.macys.com/shop/product/alfani-red-suit-separate-navy-solid-slim-fit?ID=449329&CategoryID=17788#fn=PRICE%3D100.0|249.99%26SUIT_FIT%3DSlim Fit%26sp%3D1%26spc%3D31%26ruleId%3D66%26slotId%3D7

Thanks for the help

Posted 3 months ago #
Alan
Member

I would suggest thrift stores, but I'd be surprised if you found anything in your size. Do you know what your current measurements are?

Posted 3 months ago #
kinojay33
Member

The J.Crew Ludlow or Thompson suits seem to be pretty popular around here and with a few of my lankier friends. Might want to consider that. Contact a local tailor to get good measurements first if you end up ordering online though, and have it tailored after you receive it.

Personally, I've been having a lot of luck with Banana Republic suits lately, but I'm also about three inches shorter and fifteen pounds heavier than you. Ah, to have the metabolism of an undergraduate again...

Posted 3 months ago #
nicholascrawford
Member

Hi Jake - welcome to the forum.

This is a good place to get started down the right path, and you're asking the right questions. I would stay - stop - get yourself measured. You need to take a tape and measure around the thickest part of your chest, under your arms, preferably with the help of a friend. For most people, it's going to be over your nipples.

Then...I would think hard about a budget. And think hard about whether you really want a Rayon suit. A wool suit will be a much better fabric, last longer, and have a higher resale value. With a $300 budget, you could get an Indochino suit with a $75 tailoring credit. But not much of a resale market with that. Anyways, 120 pounds is really slim, so it's doubtful that you'll find a suit OTR (off the rack) that will fit perfectly. Whatever you pick, be sure to budget in $75 (give or take) for tailoring.

Made to measure or suit separates are the way to go - you're on the right track with that.

Posted 3 months ago #
Jake
Member

Yeah, I've been admiring the Ludlow for a while now... but there's no way that's going to happen. I'm about 36 in the chest (rough estimate), with a 29ish waist.

I've checked some of the thrift stores around me, and haven't had any luck, especially trying to find slimmer cuts. Most slim fit dress shirts fit me well, especially from Express. I've also glanced over stuff at H&M, and have been thinking that a suit from there might serve my purposes well.

Posted 3 months ago #
TomasR
Member

The two suits you posted are at quite different price points so a bottom-line budget would be a good additional bit of info. Given your tall and quite thin build, stretching the budget for something made-to-measure might be worth it. Regardless, do not order something off-the-rack online without trying it on first. Otherwise, you risk ending up with something that will cost you over $100 in tailoring.

I will say this though re: that first suit you posted, do not buy a black suit. Navy, light grey or charcoal are far more versatile and, frankly, look way better. Black suits are for morticians, corporate lawyers and the occasional style pro who knows that they're best left for after dark social events and require perfect execution.

Posted 3 months ago #
Alan
Member

I personally never tried to measure myself. It's something a professional can do in a matter of seconds, and you'll feel more confident in their measurements than your own.

I would avoid H&M if possible. Unless I'm just unaware, I don't know of any suits they sell that aren't some sort of poly (aka synthetic) blend. You're better off with natural fibers unless you're just SERIOUSLY hurting for cash.

Tommy Hilfiger suits at Macy's dip into the $250 range when they're on sale (which is fairly often), but I don't know if they carry your size. Also, you have to have the right shoulders for it.

Does your family share the same basic frame? In other words, could you a bum an old suit off your dad or brother is it doesn't fit them anymore? Sometimes the easiet solution is overlooked so I'm just throwing it out there...

Posted 3 months ago #
kinojay33
Member

"Black suits are for morticians, corporate lawyers and the occasional style pro who knows that they're best left for after dark social events and require perfect execution."

Sorry, but this is such a played-out and outdated attitude. A well-cut black suit can be incredibly versatile and allows one to take more risks with your shirt and tie colors/patterns. And if your BMI is higher than a 20, it's also a huge help in the slimming department. And quite simply, a black suit always lends a air of darkness, rebellion and hipness. Marcello Mastroianni anyone?

That said, for a guy who's 5'10" and 120lbs...black is probably not a good choice.

Posted 3 months ago #
Jake
Member

Macy's is currently running a 40 percent off sale, so the Alfani comes out to be relatively cheaper. I remember hearing relatively good things about the CK, so I posted that too. I accidentally posted the black one, and am definitely looking for navy or grey (don't want the funeral look).

My price point is ideally around $250-300, especially with the risk that I could grow out of it in a year or two.

I have been considering Indochino because of their retailoring credit, which could be very handy, but with the mixed reviews and the fact that it's already sitting slightly outside my price range, I'm more likely to avoid it.

My family does have the same frame, but my dad gained about 40 pounds in college (starting at the same point as me, approximately), so my main concern is that I do the same thing and have essentially wasted a lot of money for a suit that doesn't fit me, and has low resale value considering my ridiculously odd measurements.

Posted 3 months ago #
@damenefreghista
Member

Hey Jake. At 5'10 120 there's a solid chance you'll be gaining 10-15 lbs in the next couple years. Also you mentioned its a temporary suit, how temporary is it? Are you talking a couple months? Or a couple of years? A thrift store will most likely not have much for you. Im just slightly bigger than you and have a really hard time myself when I go; not to say you won't find something, because every thrift store is different. But if this is your first suit that you're talking about, you don't want to go buy a used suit. I would suggest going with something from ZARA for a temporary suit. They're not of great quality, but they match around the same quality as an Alfani. And the fit and style will most likely suit your body type much better. They're offering their clothes online now so you don't have to necessarily live close to a brick and mortar store to purchase a suit. And the smallest size I believe they have is a 36. And their waist size goes all the way down to 28. They're very fitted and you shouldn't need much if any tailoring.

If you're really tight on cash and you only need the suit for a month or so and probably won't wear it anymore after that, then I would check out H & M. Because their suits don't tend to last very long. But it should last continuous use for a few months. I'd like you to know that I'm not endorsing an H&M suit as a first choice, but for what you need it and with the cash you have, it might not be such a bad idea.

Look to target for their button shirts too if you are short on cash. I believe they're like $25 dollars. If you're dimensions are really what you stated above, there's no way you're any bigger than a 36 in any store. So don't go out and buy anything larger. Even if you think you'll gain some size in the next few months. It's better to sport something cheap and fitted, than an expensive suit that fits you 1 or 2 sizes large.

Posted 3 months ago #
Chareth
Member

Outside of going to a funeral, there is nothing a black suit can do that a dark navy can't do better, IMO.

And I do agree with TomasR. Black suits require perfect execution. When I see black suits during the day in NYC, they are usually very ill-fitting and worn by younger kids who don't quite understand proper fit yet.

Posted 3 months ago #
TomasR
Member

"Sorry, but this is such a played-out and outdated attitude. A well-cut black suit can be incredibly versatile and allows one to take more risks with your shirt and tie colors/patterns. And if your BMI is higher than a 20, it's also a huge help in the slimming department. And quite simply, a black suit always lends a air of darkness, rebellion and hipness. Marcello Mastroianni anyone?

That said, for a guy who's 5'10" and 120lbs...black is probably not a good choice."

Not trying to be contentious, but using a menswear icon like Mastroianni to argue in favor of the black suit doesn't make much sense to me. Not everyone can pull off Mastroianni's style, just like not everyone can pull off a Nick Wooster look.

The black suit requires real style know-how to pull off while a navy, light grey or charcoal number is much easier to put together. I'd argue that a black suit significantly limits your options since A) you have to be careful with your color choices since even a simple red can look tacky with a black suit and B) black suits are "strong" in an office setting which can make you look out of place if you're not upper-level management in a business formal type office.

The black suit has its place, but setting and execution are more critical to its success than any other suit option.

Again, not looking for an argument, but I think the pros and cons of the black suit are pretty well established at this point.

Posted 3 months ago #
MagM
Member

How old are you? You mention you're going to school for undergrad, so I'm figuring probably around 18.

I wouldn't spend a lot of money. I graduated high school 6'2", 130. I was up to 180 by the end of freshman year (without being overweight; that came later :P). I know everyone's suggesting good materials and all that but if you're an 18-year-old kid with potential to get a good bit bigger I might just try my luck with something from H&M and come back to this a few years later.

Posted 3 months ago #
Jake
Member

I'm 17 (late summer birthday, started school earlier rather than later)

Ideally I'd like this suit to last 1-2 years of relatively minor use, since I really don't expect to need it too much my first year or two. I figure I'll upgrade to something better like Suit Supply once I start getting into interviews and such.

As for now, I'm really liking the Zara suits, and I've heard a bit better things about them than H&M (though I didn't even think about them when considering brands).

http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/us/en/zara-us-S2012/189528/631209/MICROSTRUCTURE%2BBLAZER

This is the one that I like currently, since they're out of a 36 in the grey (maybe I'll wait for the grey to get back in stock)... It's 53% wool, which isn't great, but I figure it will work.

Unfortunately, the nearest physical store is in Chicago, so I can't try it on, but I'll definitely make sure to get officially measured before purchasing.

Posted 3 months ago #
nicholascrawford
Member

You'll always wish you had done things differently with the first 2 or 3 suits you buy. Best to get that out of the way early!

Posted 3 months ago #
laxattackdog
Member

Since you'll "always wish you had done things differently with the first 2 or 3 suits" (which is something I've heard from many people) doesn't that make the H&M option more viable? Considering the full suit can be had for about $78 (assuming you use the always available 20% off one item) or even less and it will pretty much only need tailoring in the sleeves, isn't that a decent super cheap option? Say for a person who doesn't wear a suit often but needs that option available every once and again.

I have a few over-sized suits that I feel terrible in now that I've started to pay attention to fit and I am considering going the H&M rout for now. I've also been checking eBay but I feel that getting a super cheap H&M getup would buy me some time. I was also looking at the gap tailored fit charcoal blazer and pants over the weekend when it was on sale. Are there any other options in the extremely cheap temporary stand in range? I don't live near Uniqlo so that's out.

Edit: I'm also looking at the Indochino Essential Gray, but that is still a little expensive for me at the moment considering how rarely I would have the opportunity to wear it.

Posted 3 months ago #
Jordan
Member

Jcrew, Banana Republic, maybe even Express if you like athletic/tailored fits. Or try any and all regular department stores for more traditional suiting.

Posted 3 months ago #
nicholascrawford
Member

laxattackdog - It has everything to do with what one would consider affordable. If a suit for $379 sounds affordable, I think Indochino is a very valid option. If that's a chunk of change right now, and $78 sounds like a lot but is doable, H&M would be a great choice.

If you're shopping carefully, spending more is going to get you more, with the thrift exception. But that will cost you time. If you're making $8 or $25 or $50 per hour, that will probably alter how much time you're willing to spend perusing a thrift store.

My Essential Grey arrived yesterday, and it looks and feels incredible. Some tailoring tweaks to make with the pant and sleeve length, but everything else is just awesome. My brother threatened to steal it, my sister adores it, our nanny said I looked cute, my wife wishes she were home to see me in it...totally worth every penny. =P

Posted 3 months ago #
Big_Scooter
Member

post pics, nicholas! I've been debating trying indochino, but the negative reviews have me scared.

Posted 3 months ago #

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